Troubleshoot Archives

August 20, 2024April 3, 2025

Dolphin On

Maytronics Nautilus CC Plus Repair Update

Dolphin On

Lab Work – Maytronics Repair, Dolphin On, Post Hurricane

Parts are in, Dolphin Has Been Repaired, Cleaning Away

Let’s take a closer look at the process. Upon further inspection, I found corrosion around the motors. The seal around the power cord also appears to be in poor condition. So, I proceed with a teardown, replacing the power unit, and tread ball bearings to restore the robot back to full capacity with genuine OEM parts. A self-test was performed as need, I conducted a number of in-water and out-of-water tests which worked perfectly. As it should, under normal power. Next, I replaced all parts and picked up where we left off on the last article Nautilus Down (check that out if you missed it).

Pre-Check, Install and Test

Check all cogs, ball bearings, drive pin, and wheel/hub parts. Make sure ball bearings are moving freely and free of rust or degradation. Replaced any parts showing degradation or major rust. Filled electronic parts and pressure seals with pool lube and reconnected parts, careful to screw-down fasteners and plastic nuts with appropriate tension. Dolphin On. Additionally, both out-of-water and in-the-water tests performed as expected. Time for a swim! Cinched down any screws, or screens, package up the robot and ran the clean cycle.

Robot Build

New Unit

Unit Connector

Dry Fit

Tread Check

Proper Fit

Motor Check

Dry Test

Post Test

Brush Down and Toggle The Dolphin On

If you can’t tell, the pool has sand, debris and dragonflies. Before we toggle the Dolphin On, let’s do a quick brush down of the pool to encourage removal. You can kind of see here the pool was a bit dirty, as the hurricane kicked up enough debris for the Dolphin to clean. There was no pool cage carnage, or aluminum part failure, which is great. Minor screen damage only.

Maytronics Documents and More

Finally, following the test cycles, Dolphin on, put in the water and cleaned the pool well. In most cases, the vacuum actively cleans on stage 1, please the Maytronics manuals. Find Stage 1 testing and more robot testing features under the Nautilus CC Plus section. I hope this information helps, how to get your pool robot fixed and Dolphin On. If anyone out there needs assistance, please contact me I am happy to help. Thanks! As usual leave a comment below to let us know what you’re thinking!

August 14, 2024April 2, 2025

Dolphin Down

Nautilus CC Plus Repair Needed

Dolphin Down, Waiting On Parts

Lab Work – Maytronics Repair, Dolphin Down. Let’s fix the Nautilus CC Plus

Looks like a new motor unit is required. Full teardown ahead.

Exciting news! A new series, Dolphin Down, is coming soon. This series is related to the repair of the Maytronics Dolphin Nautilus CC Plus. Currently, we are awaiting the arrival of a new motor unit. In the meantime, we are in the process of dismantling the Nautilus CC Plus robot in search of a malfunctioning drive motor.

The fan motor is functioning properly, passing both tests passed – underwater and out-of-water tests. The multimeter has confirmed that the drive motor is not working. The circuit board appears to be in good, working condition confirmed by the blinking green LEDs. The LEDs indicating that it is functioning as expected. This a positive sign for our robot and the repair diagnosis.

Robot Teardown

Housing

Screen Key

Prop Screen

Cord

Internals

Motor Unit

Remove Prop

Prop Residue

Sealed Cord

To begin the teardown process, find a safe spot and grab a multi-tool with pliers, flathead and cross bits (Phillips bits). Start by removing the power cord from the unit and unplugging the unit from the wall if necessary. First, on the Dolphin, unscrew the four screws under the filter doors to remove the top. Use the transparent or white flathead key or knob to pop open the propeller gate, which is easily accessible once the filter doors are open.

Next, slide the cord out from under the blue, body cover after removing the four main screws. Adjust the cord, remove the floats and be careful when removing the side panels. These panels should just pop off top down. Just be aware of the tabs on the bottom of the panels, this is what hold the body shells in place. Use the pliers to unscrew the blue cord connected to the power unit, as well as the four screws holding the two yellow cord strips to the unit. Unscrew the four unit screws holding the motor unit in place and it will be free.

Robot Teardown

Drive Bearings

Motor Unit

Remove Unit

Board Check

Drive Motor

Finally, check all cogs, drive belts, and wheel/hub parts. Ensure that the ball bearings are moving freely, unobstructed and are free of rust or degradation. Replace any parts that showing degradation, wear or significant rust. Fill with lubricant and reconnect parts, being careful to screw with appropriate tension. Test the robot out of water first, followed by half-submerged and fully submerged underwater tests. *Updated – Check out the repair – Dolphin On or the first post we commented on regarding the Maytronics Nautilus Dolphin for more information on troubleshooting, maintenance and repairs. More information will be provided in the next *5 business days, as we will be receiving the new motor unit packaging up the robot and running the cleaning cycle. Thank you.

As always, feel free to leave a comment below, let us know your thoughts!

May 16, 2024March 30, 2025

Fix 3D Prints and Plastics

Be Creative Without the Hassle

Quick Fix With Super Glue and Baking Soda

Strong Adhesives, Baking Soda and Spray Activator/Hardener Light

Fix plastics, wood lures, wood carvings and more. Fix 3d Prints and Plastics better than traditional fillers or bonding agents.

Adhesives, Clean Up/Deburring

Starbond Kit – Starbond Kit – Glue & Activator Starbond – Super Fast Thin Glue JB Weld – J-B Weld Bonder (2) Pack AFA Tooling – AFA Tooling Deburring Tools
Dremel Tool – Dremel High Performance Rotary Tool Kit

In A Tight Spot, Choose Super Adhesive and Baking Soda

Need a quick fix, while out fishing in the field? Or did a new 3D print break during the clean up process? What should you do now? For a quick fix, simply grab some extra strength glue, our choice, Starbond, Starbond activator, baking soda and start the filling process. This method works on wood, plastics, and more. By using baking soda as the ‘filler’ and the super adhesive as the bonding agent, you’ll have a quick fix in no time.

If you need to clean up your 3D Printables, fix drones and drone parts, clean up or deburr plastics and filler using super adhesives and baking soda, deburring tools are a must. When producing items from plastics or resin compounds such as wood, metals and plastics, the production process isn’t perfect, leaving you with work post production. Tasks like, trimming for metal stamping or removing travel or supports in the 3D printing process, require specific tools. We recommend AFA Deburring Tools for hand scraping and clean up, as well as the Dremel Rotary Tool for tile, clay, woods and metals. These tools are handy to have around the shop for various tasks.

Finally, for those tough jobs, or bonds, try JB Weld (J-B Weld Amazon Store). There are many applications for JB weld. Whether it’s loose or broken tiles, outdoor furniture, or any other project, JB Weld Epoxy and adhesives will create a strong and lasting bond using chemical bonding resins.

For a comprehensive list of all products mentioned above, please refer to our affiliate shopping list for ideas, product information, and more. Here are some products you may want to consider! Please note that this is just one method of fixing plastics; it was a test to demonstrate the effectiveness of the adhesive and baking soda powder.

May 10, 2024March 30, 2025

M1 Touchbar

Let’s Rebuild The M1 Touchbar, Keys and Replace The Screen

Teardown and Rebuild M1 Touchbar

M1 Update – Touch bar

Take your time! I can’t stress this enough. This process of building this feature article, the M1 Touchbar, will require time, patience and a steady hand. It is important to take your time and proceed with caution. The article includes over 50 steps, so proper case is essential. If needed, consider seeing a professional help. There are easier alternatives available, but they may be more expensive.

For example, you could purchase the correct make/model upper case where the touch bar does not need to be removed and replaced. However, finding the right parts may not be as simple as it seems, especially for a model that is just coming out of warranty. This challenge is common when repairing newer or cutting-edge electronics. In some cases, it may be easier to purchase a new computer, second-hand computer and replace only the parts from the existing machine.

Keep Your Work Area Clean, Clean As You Go

We clean up as we go, there were glass fragments before, during and after this process. Handle with caution and care. Glass and debris (dirt, hair, fuzz etc.) must be cleaned up as you go. The goal is to leave it better than the you found it! Ditto on Teardown. The same goes for the battery, battery cable, main screw, hinges, LCD cables, display, display hinge covers, cables (springs), antenna cables and assembly, LCD, remove antennae, main hinge screws, and remove LCD. First, perform an LCD check to ensure the new LCD works.

Disassemble Upper Cables

Board Cable(s)

Disconnect Board Cable(s)

Unplug Connectors

Disconnect all Cable(s)

Board Cable

Starting here with the upper disassembled, we have the main logic board, power brackets, cable brackets. We need to disconnect the trackpad, speakers, logic board flex screws and cables. This is where we can begin the touch bar assembly replacement. Everything is bundled up, with covers, varying screws, and electronics tape. It is important to have your replacement ready once you have removed the main board, speakers, and trackpad. This is where things get tricky!

Continue Disassembly & Board

LCD Removed

Board Screw(s)

Continue Disassembly

Motherboard Screw(s)

Board Cables

Additional Screw(s)

Clean Motherboard Space

Brush Debris

It’s handy to have your tool kit out. If not, give Amazon a quick call or pull up iFixit and scroll. You’re going to need adhesive remover, gloves, and glasses you know, the essentials when working with glass, and chemicals on small electronics.

We will start with the flat pry bar on the front (assuming all touch bar parts have been dismantled or ‘torn down’). We will slowly pry and spray our adhesive remover down behind the touch bar glass and the metal upper. It’s more fun if you have more adhesive remover than what we had during the refurb process. Not much left after the mobile device teardowns a few months back.

Touchbar

Touch Assembly

Touch Cable(s)

Touchbar Cable(s)

Unfold Flex Cable(s)

Glue Remova

Glue Release

Touch Removed

Attach Touch Cable(s)

Unfold Flex Cable(s)

Ok, so first we remove the glue, glass, and finally the touch bar on the front by accessing it through the upper back. Then, it’s a simple process of replacing the touch bar. We need to be careful to remove the backing that will adhere the M1 Touchbar to the upper case, flex cable in hand through the upper or touch bar bracket and reassemble the touch bar cables and housing.

Throughout the rebuild process, we kept the screen protector film on to protect the screen. Below, you can find a number of images documenting each step of the process. Proceed with caution!

Touchbar Verification

Remove Cover

Cover Removed

Power On

Touch bar Test

OS Testing

Wrapping up, the M1 Touchbar has been installed, and all parts have been reassembled. Now let’s cover the conclusion. Once the machine is back together, a quick test is needed. We run the machine services mode, working with the drive, and checking what’s on it.

We wipe the main drive, rename it, rebuild it and reinstall it. Some quick terminal snippets and a reboot later, the process is complete. Once reinstalled, we remove any all all software (bloat) that we can, and we are off to the races. This laptop will be used at some point to run ham radio software, so I am hoping to install Linux on the main drive and use it as I have done with my previous machines. Well, that concludes the refurbish process/effort. If you have any questions, feel free to send me an email, Cheers.

Series Complete, Review Previous Posts

Lastly, good luck with your own Self Service Repair, and the same goes for the Parts catalog – https://selfservicerepair.com/en-US/home. The build continues on the M1, so be sure to check out the subsequent articles (5 in total) M1 Refurb, Visual Inspection and Teardown, M1 Touchbar, and Screen & Keys. Enjoy! A friendly reminder, It’s vital in my opinion to use OEM parts. IMO (in my opinion), if you can’t, consider second -hand options via Amazon or eBay. Additionally, the parts list is very helpful for those familiar with the process. If you’re not, don’t hesitate to reach out if you’re in a pinch. I’m happy to help or help guide you to the right support method or service.

March 22, 2024March 30, 2025

M1 Screen & Keys

We Teardown And Rebuild An Apple M1 MBP

M1 Teardown – Screen & Keys

M1 Arrow Key, LCD

LCD and keys, can be tedious, be careful and be aware of the process; ‘teardown’ process.

Visual Inspection, Keys

Starting with the easiest part of the refurbishment process – what is the easiest part of the build? The keys. Keys, Screen/LCD and then the touch bar. Please note, the refurbishment process required two teardowns, so to speak. First, let’s verify the working parts and inspect the touch bar on it’s own. The process, you could say, is a one-step job. However, I did this job in two parts for the sake of my own sanity.

The key here, is this: I know that if I could get the screen working, we would be in good shape. Cost aside, I was trying to avoid purchasing the M1 upper case which holds all parts associated with the computer. So, in other words, it’s a no-brainer, keys on the keyboard, LCD screen, then touch bar.

Teardown

Screws and Bottom Case

Apply Suction

Visual Inspection

Battery Cable

Remove Cable

Board Screw

A Closer Look

Screw Removed

Hinge Covers

Cover Screws

Left Main Hinge

Right Main Hinge

Internal Repair, Replace LCD

Start the teardown bell! We’ve completed our inspection and are beginning with the easiest of the three R/R (remove and replace) parts in this teardown. Keys can sometimes be tricky, so if you are familiar with them, please refer to the video below. If keys are a confusing concept to you, just focus on the left arrow key. There are several online resources available for reference, with Snazzy providing a helpful video walkthrough of the process. We breeze through the key change with ease.

For more detailed information, you can also check out @SnazzyLabs, quick video on how to replace keys. It’s important to note – that there may be some differences between models, especially the M1. That’s why the video is so helpful! The key takeaway is that quick snap keys convenient but can tricky if you are not familiar with how scissor clips work. I recommend purchasing new keys (up, down, left and right) – make sure to get the ‘left arrow’ key) for a simple slide an click installation process. It’s as easy as pie.

Moving On To The Display

So, the cracked screen… We used a clamp tool and suction cups to get under the bottom case. A recommendation: iFixit has a variety of tools and parts for fixing things. We’ll talk more about them later, but we have bought a few items for them. You will also need adhesive remover, can you guess where we got ours? This is not a paid advertisement, but they have some great tools if you don’t have anything in your electric/technical toolbox.

We start by removing the bottom case when replacing the screen. Beginning with the batter cable for the M1 Screen & Key’s fix, it’s important to be carful as cables and parts are delicate and can easily break. So, remove the cable cover, battery cable, and screws. The most nerve-wracking part is dealing with the different sizes of screws, types of drivers, and prying tools required for the job (TORX, pryer(s), spudgers, tweezers etc). Once the battery cables and screws are removed, we can unscrew the hinge covers and move onto the antennas. It can be challenging to see the screws on the antennas, so good luck!

Teardown Upper, Goal LCD Removal

Locate Antennae Bay

Remove Cable(s)

Antennae Screw(s)

Remove Screw(s)

Antennae Screw(s)

LCD Removal and Replace

The antenna will need additional cables, screws and bars leading down to the antenna and LCD springs. After installing those items, we will once again remove the antenna wire cover and detach the wires. It is important to exercise caution and be mindful of leaving the piece in better condition than when we found it. When removing covers, do so gently to keep glued area clean and free of debris (we had to address some glass bits).

Teardown Continues With the Antennae and Cables

Prep Antennae

Antennae Screw(s)

Remove Cable Connectors

Antennae Cable(s) Removed

Hinge(s)

Antennae Cleared

Once, the antenna bar is clear, the LCD hinge screws will need to be removed, along with the springs and mounting hardware. Voila, the LCD has been detached.

Antennae, Hinges and Test LCD

Remove Display

LCD Hinges

Reattach LCD

M1 Screen & Keys Wrap Up

This concludes the M1 Screen & Keys section of the refurbishment process. As mentioned earlier, we will now proceed to the touch bar. We went back, replaced all screws and cables to confirm that the LCD swap and key are working as expected, and we found that the touch bar was not working. We verified all parts (sans the touch bar) continued with wiping and cleaning in the following post. If you missed the first three articles, you can find those here: 1. Self Repair, 2. Refurb, and 3. Visual Inspection, Teardown. Cheers.

January 19, 2024April 3, 2025

Quick Tip – Float

Stop Running Water

Pesky Toilet, Fix Running Water Issue

Toilet Running? Quick Tip – Check the Float, Stop the Water Flow Correctly.

Quick Tip: Is your toilet leaking or running? Start by checking for a few common issues. Is the water continuously filling the toilet? This could indicate a water shutoff problem. Is the flap broken, deteriorating, or blocked by debris like a tank cleaner puck or tablet?

Next Steps

Here are two simple steps to fix the problem we are trying to solve in this quick tip article regarding floats and flaps. First, check the flap. Is it the correct size and in good condition? If not, replace it. Adjust the flap sinker and chain as needed. Second, check the float. Make sure it is floating properly to shut off the water once the tank reaches the set float height. Fixing these issues can help stop your toilet from leaking or running.

Toilet Inspection, Repair

Visual Inspection

Unscrew Water Hose

Tank Screw

Replace Flap

Water Pipe

Screw Water Hose

When it comes to toilet repair, there are few things you need to check, such as water height and water pressure. For a quick fix, start by turning off the water, draining the tank, vacuuming out any remaining water (having a bucket nearby can be helpful in tight spaces). Let’s loosen the plastic nut(which is a common material these days) that connects the tank to the water spout. Do the same for the float nut, which is the other connection point under the tank for modern toilets.

Once the hose and float have been removed, along with the float assembly and hose connecting the ‘out flow’ pipe, which may be another potential leak point, replace what was removed with new materials and turn the water back on. And just like that, your toilet is fixed. It may not be a technical task, but everyone has a toilet, and appliances and fixtures can break down from time to time. Keep this handy tip in mind for the next time.

Like the quick fix format? Check out other quick fix content here such as this disposal problems fix. Like the learn to descale your coffee equipment – pots and machines. Much like this fix a toilet float article… clean and fixpool filter housing and filter problem or try a cell phone charging hack… Check them out!

October 8, 2023April 3, 2025

Rebuild Part 5

Ender Series TPU Upgrade Part 5 – Rebuild And Upgrade

Sonic Pad Adjustments, Assembly

Labwork – Upgrades, Rebuild Part 5

Finally, a moment to enjoy and success is here. Everyone has been eagerly anticipating a full print test of the Ender 3 Max Neo, Sonic Pad, and Creality TPU. The full print was successful without the need for a dreaded motherboard upgrade.

No motherboard upgrade is needed at this time! We just need more time to print and tweak, print and tweak. Success! A fresh print, an end-to-end cube test print… just look at the ironing, ‘it’s alive, it’s alive’. It may seem like a small win, but it is a win nonetheless. The config/console appears to be correct, which is no surprise, I’m looking into a few more tweaks in the end.

Upgrade Continues

Let’s highlight a few things before we dive into the rebuild, part 5. An update was overdue, especially this one celebrating the print test win. Check. After a very early start this morning (the pictures are included below) we’ve got the Ender 3 Max Neo producing TPU test prints with minimal blips, blurbs, zits, stringing etc. All good things.

The key takeaway, is that delta refers to extrusion setting, which controls the direct drive pressure on the filament. s… These settings can be found in the advanced settings under extrusion settings. A reminder for those using the Creality Sonic Pad interface: if you are using the onboard interface, you will need to look for something called “steps” or a way to control the stepper. In layman’s terms, this refers to the ‘pressure in steps’ needed to push filament through the extruder.

In this rebuild, rebuild part 5, we highlights the success of the extrusion win, along with making other minor tweaks such as adjusting the heat at the tip, improving bed adhesion, and adjusting speed to match the Sprite Extrusion settings. We found that print temps between 220-240 C, depending on the filament type – Duramic or Creality TPU. Additionally, we increased the flow rate by an additional 25%, bringing it to 125%, and reduced the speed by 25% approximately 75%. Therefore, the settings are as follows: 220C – 240C Nozzle – 75C Bed – 75% Speed – 125% Flow Rate – Sprite Extrusion Settings Enabled.

Currently, some additional adjustments are being made to the movement settings into rebuild Part 5. The Z height appears to require some minor adjustments in specific areas, although the reason for this is unclear. It could be related to the differences between the initial layers and the subsequent layers. 3D printers enable users to control various settings throughout three stages of the printing process: the beginning, middle and end.

3D Printer Upgrade Inspiration

Evening Print

Halot Reflection

Sonic Pad

Adjustments

Spider Hot End

First Globule

Test Cube

Failed Test Cube

One other thing to mention, which I failed to include in my previous post, Part 4 is that bed adhesion continues to be an issue. It could be the dark horse among the issues at play. A quick fix for bed adhesion is using alcohol and paper towels to keep the adhesion plate clear and clean! Make sure to throughly clean the plate by scrubbing away any oil residue, filament, blips, dust, stringing, dog hair (thanks, Zeus), and any other debris that might accumulate on the build plate in a typical office environment.

I don’t recall if keeping the plate clean actually made a difference when it comes to cleaning the bed, but we have tried a few different methods. We experimented with a clean bed, a taped bed (using Blue Painters Taps), and a sprayed/glue stick adhesive bed. All in an effort to find an alternative solution for prints shifting on the bed surface. We will also be posting some build plate test and will be trying spray adhesives next. Could that be the answer?

More Adjustments

A few adjustments with the Hex (Allen) keys, resetting the rail wheels, and we’ve successfully completed Part 5. Looking back, I’m not sure if the build plate really needed to be cleaned between PLA prints. If you look closely a the picture, you’ll see that the Creality Sonic Pad is now operational as planned. Personally, I don’t think I would have kept the generic screen that originally came with the machine. The Wifi, Cloud Printing/Slicing, direct printing, and customizable settings are all key reasons to stick with the Sonic Pad.

One item to note, is that we have not been able to get the Wifi Box 2.0 to work in the upgraded sandbox. Furthermore, for the time being, we will set aside the Wifi Box 2.0 until we can determine the optimal print settings and ensure consistent adhesion. Despite this, we are staying positive and moving forward with larger format prints, including some TinkerCad projects for a true test. Additionally, it is worth mentioning that we have relocated the printer from the workbench. The tabletop did not provide the necessary stability due to the incessant shaking, vibration, and back-and-forth motions of the printer assembly.

Overall, today is a win after having the printer on the bench for the past few weeks. Check out the previous series articles – Part 1 Teardown, Part 2, Part 3 and Part 4. We are on an upswing, with new parts, new break-fix settings, slicing settings and a new location for the 3D printer to operate. For those interested in what’s coming next, I have a backlog of TPU Max Neo parts, including a new digital spool, some technology ‘smartphone covers’, and a unique locking mechanism for a cooler. More details on that later.

September 29, 2023March 31, 2025

Rebuild Continues Part 3

Learn more about the Ender 3 Max Neo Rebuild: Part 3

Ender Series TPU Upgrade Part 3

Final Assembly, Boot, Config and Print

Lab Work – Rebuild Part 3

I encountered a bit of a snag, but I am rebuilding and continuing with the Ender TPU Upgrade rebuild continues in part 3 of the series. As the rebuild coninues part 3 rolls out, we are seeing the challenges now. For the time being, please refer to the updates above/below for part 3 updates. We will be covering more of the rebuild process, including the x/y axis bands, plate, direct drive issues, boot/reboot procedures, and reinstalling printer drivers. Additionally, we will discuss slicers, nozzles, extruder/heating element, and the latest issue, the onboard/external interface.

Breaking Through, Troubleshooting activities

As noted in the previous build, prior to Rebuild Continues Part 3… found in Part 2 of the series, we are likely around 80%-90% complete at this point. We will refer to this rebuild as Part 3. We have encountered some filament burn and melt down, as well as blockers that we will address in Part 4. Nonetheless, Part 2 was successful, and now Part 3 is also going well, with all parts functioning as expected and the boards booting as they should. The new drive and extruder are working in tandem as intended. The ‘issue, as previously mentioned, lies between the Creality Sonic Pad, printer board and connecting software. Images will be included to illustrate the challenges faced during the rebuild, including manual updates made on the printer screen, main board, and the area where we are currently stuck with the Sonic Pad. Two notable errors are the Klippy software and Sonic Pad physical connection failure, as well was filament recognition.

Rebuild

Print Video

Tension Bands

Secure Bands

LCD SD Card

Clean Build Plate

Install Firmware

Power On

E Stepper

Connection Error

Firmware Selection

Extruder

Hot End

Out next steps will involve installing/rebuilding Klippy, testing, retesting print config files, reattaching the Sonic Pad, replacing extruder tubes, nozzles, adjusting e-Steps, home position and more, while also adding the Wifi Box 2.0. Once all of these tasks are completed and throughly vetted and tested, we will create a brief update of the build and active prints to mark these items of the rebuild list. Next steps – TPU Settings, Rebuild Step 4, Rebuild Step 5 and wrap up.

Got to love technology (or not), and office ‘helpers’ Zeus thought he would take a little snooze while the troubleshooting session continued throughout the day and night. The same can be said for discovery and testing, there’s no time like the present. Some folks call it the ‘grind’… I’ll leave that there for you to imagine. Is it painstakingly difficult? No. Time always plays a role, especially when speed-to-market is crucial. You have to be willing to work with what you have… Part 4 will be coming shortly, where we will cover fine tuning, steps, extrusion, adhesion and whatever else pops up in the meantime.

September 29, 2023April 3, 2025

Creality TPU

TPU Filament, Challenges and Wins

OEM TPU

Lab Work – Various Filaments

Filament types, such as Creality TPU and various brands, can be a nightmare of a problem to have. Which filament should you purchase? What works best on the 3D printer I own? What should I do when I’m just starting out?

Cut to the point: purchase and use what you can in context. However, when push comes to shove, the Ender Series, Prusa, and Makerbot all great choices for novices or beginners. Starting with an eBay ‘parts’ printer, might help cut down costs or consider a refurbished one.

Regardless of the product make or structure, the fine-tuning the nozzles, stability of the machine, drive system, adhesion, and filament are important. Filament might be the easiest to swap out, follower by the nozzle (noting various nozzle sizes, with most default sizes being .4mm). For hobbyists, the drive mechanism, bed/build plates, etc. may also need attention. Filament might just be an easy swap with a catch.

Like most things, filament comes with it’s own issues – additional research is required, fine tuning and testing depending on the choice of 3D printer. Let’s talk shop, about filaments, retraction (more on this in a future post). Listen, if purchasing power is a problem, meaning if you have limited funds, start by buying what you can afford, especially for those starting out in the 3D printing hobby. Do what you can to make ‘it work’. Making it work means being able to test, test, and retest. It’s a process of elimination, gradually solving problems over time. Better filaments lead to better results.

Let’s have a look

There have been many times when testing, in fact, I might venture to say, problems are related to the cost of filament and the length of time it takes the user to move from the cheaper options to the final working filament. At least in my experience of finding the right filament through testing, more than not, filament testing became a costly lesson in what not to do. So, yes, a healthy dose of testing is needed, including failure.

Drone Accessories

Creality TPU

TPU Weight

Duramic 3D

That said, I would be remiss not to highlight the value of this article, which is to help you save money on filaments, pieces, parts, and printing costs. The key takeaway is to buy and match OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturing) filaments. For example, since I have Creality printers (3 Creality printers in total), thus, I use Creality filaments like Creality TPU (Thermoplastic Polyurethane) Filament.

Lately, we’ve been looking branch out a bit, as we’ve recently added the Prusa’s i3 MK3S+ 3D Printer kit to the mix. Again, there are many options, printers, upgrades, filaments… choose wisely.

Learn More via MatterHackers

Let’s focus on what works, finding something that works for your current printer or future printer. As a hobbyist, I have stuck to the ‘happy path’ being less adventurous and mainly using PLA’s (Polylactic Acid) and TPU’s. MatterHackers does an excellent job of providing information on what’s available on the market, including types of filament, sizes, brands, and colors.

Dive in! Or maybe, expansion is on your mind, and you want to setup your own print farm – @ShopNation might be a great research to check out. Have options, which might be the biggest take away beyond testing or OEM/OEM filaments. Hey, as a hobbyist, saving some cash is good thing, there are thousands of upgrades on the market, same for the number of printers, filaments, parts, boards etc.

Through various testing methods, settings, set ups, printers and more, I have discovered that what matters most is what works. That is defined as success rate or success metric. Consistency, fit/finish, quality over flash and speed over quantity are key factor. For example Duramic 3D TPU is just not working in the Ender 3 Neo Max rebuild. After tearing it down, rebuilding with all updates, and getting the same result, it is clear that it is time to make a switch.

OEM Filaments and More

The switch I’m referring to here, moving from generics to OEM, worked on the PLA side of the equation. It may be a correlation perhaps, and not causation. I believe that’s the value here. A handy lesson might be to continue testing where it makes sense. Remember, “correlation does not imply or mean causation,” via Mr. Glickman. Learn more about his work via his personal website or faculty website. Or, click here – .

If you want to learn more about filaments, do your research. Please do look into – MatterHackers, All3dp – Filament Finds and/or @ShopNation…

I’ll leave you with this, try what you can afford, what you can afford to discard. Test and work to fine-tune your printer. Words of encouragement ‘leave no product stone unturned’. The goal is to produce high quality, consistent, and clean prints.

Find something that works 80% of the time, the old 80/20 rule. PLA is difficult bear to tweak and maintain, as is TPU and the ~approximately 14 other materials including metals, carbon fiber, wood, and nylon. The applications are endless, ranging from starter to full forge, high-strength, commercial production. The focus should be on settings, adhesion, extrusion temp, nozzle temp, surface tension, and drives – pushers… And so on, testing is our motto/mantra, testing has become a constant. Key is to find something that works well overall, so test them all. Checkin from time to time, as new posts are created daily. We will cover the Prusa tests, Creality TPU Update – Teardown, Polycarbonate and PVA (Polyvinyl Alcohol).

Have fun, cheers

August 30, 2023March 30, 2025

Disposal Problem

We Found Food and Debris, Fixing A Disposal Problem

No Grind, Time For A New Disposal

Lab Work – Emergency Fix, Disposal Problem

A few weeks ago, we had a minor issue with the sink disposal, hence the disposal problem. The picture here is speaks volumes about the problem we encountered.

Once the problem was identified, it was clear that we needed to replace the disposal unit while limited pipe reconfiguration. Helps to stay on brand, or within the same brand name (size, fit and disposal location). Upon closer inspection, we found that rust had caused significant damage internally. I had to remove the seal and screws to crack open the top of the disposal unit. Honestly, I was surprised by how worn out the unit was. It was definitely time for a replacement, and were fortunate to have discovered the issue when we did.

Disposal Parts and Install

New Disposal Install

Disposal Rust

Clean Teeth

Interior View

Disposal Findings and Fix

Next, the title, “Disposal Problem ‘no grind’, time to replace it a new title. Unfortunately, the 1/2 replacement had a short in the wiring. Being a conscientious consumer, I decided to upgrade to the new InSinkErator 3/4 hp, which you can see here. It was a smart choice as it was the same brand and fit perfectly in the cabinet space. You can see the final installation below. These disposal units are usually plug and play, assuming that piping and plugs are readily available and identical. For this reason, I stuck with the same brand, hoping for seamless setup.

Anyhow, I didn’t want to hack away at the existing pipe or change around the pipe configuration nor the cabinetry etc. Ideally, just a quick swap, maintain the status quo or better for the drain pipes and the sinks output. In regards to the Badger 15ss, you’ll see the upgrade comes with slight increase in HP, a plastic outer case/shell “marketing” and a sparkly new (newly cleaned) lower cabinet area for the foreseeable future. Quick work of this disposal problem.

What a mess. Moving along, fix in place, watch what you put down the sink etc. Remember to check the sealant between the disposal and connector. We had a little leakage that has now been remedied. Not bad, virtually the same machine, replaced, tools – pliers, pipe wrench, flathead, pipe tape and a small bin in case of water leaks or intrusion in the future.

Quick Fix Format

Like the quick fix format? Check out other quick fix content here such as this disposal problems fix. Learn how to descale your coffee equipment – pots and machines, fix a toilet float, clean and fix pool filter housing and filter problem or try a cell phone charging hack… Check them out!

Finally, hopefully (fingers-crossed), you can learn a thing or two. Be sure to unplug disposals, have some extra ‘shop’ towels to mop up excess water or worse, sink goo. Make sure local power outlets are off and to be safe, turn off water where applicable.

August 22, 2023March 30, 2025

Quick Fix – Nano Mixer

Nano Mixer In Hand, Let’s Get To TheFix

Bloom’n Again, Mixer Back In Action

Tech And Tools – Frother Quick Fix

Quick Fix – Disassemble, Clean, New Batteries…

Quickly stir in sugar and milk, mix up your protein powders and fine particulates; all made easy with the Bloom mixer. I wanted to share a quick fix, as our nano mixer quit on us a few weeks back. Typically, the morning and afternoon espresso is ‘cut’ with a few granules of sugar and some half and half… as I get older, the trend has been ‘lighter and sweeter’… any how, here is the internal works of the mixer, teardown – a few screws, clean up, reset the metal prongs and a new set of batteries and we were back in business. Mixing up protein powder, scrambling eggs and espresso/coffee.

Just a note, be sure to keep the lower body (green structural plastic in the picture) dry if you can, there is a bit of a seal there… but better safe than dropping $20 – $40 on a new one. Again, here is the link for the Bloom variety, a micro blender or mixer with a big punch.

Secondly, we’ve tried the ‘mini blenders’ like the Bullet’s, and the hand blenders, the top of the line so to speak, with the blenders… there are advantages to all, negatives as well. The Bloom mixer is great, now that we got a Quick Fix – Nano Mixer running again. Nice mixer for the small stuff, no need to plug anything in, or clean up pre-made cups etc. Magic Bullet style mixers were great for ‘bullet coffee’*.

Make Bullet Coffee

Thirdly, never heard of bullet coffee? Make some coffee in a Bodum or Colleti.. or choose your home Coffee Machine. See below. There are a few of the nano/hand mixers on the market, and Amazon can help you find one that fits your budget. Similarly, I’lll share links below so you can make your own ‘bullet coffee’.

*Bullet Coffee Recipe: Full Fat Butter, Raw Coconut Oil, espresso/coffee of choice – Nespresso Pods – Tokyo Vivalto Lungo, a few spins of the mixer, and you’re done.

In conclusion, check out the other quick fix articles, such as pool updates, super adhesives, outdoor lights and home improvements. I’ll probably post more about espresso machines, specifically the Nespresso machine. Stay tuned for more. Thanks!

July 4, 2023March 30, 2025

Ender Upgrade Adhesion Issue

Adhesion Issues, Bed Temp, Roughen The Surface

Latest Ender Chaos

Lab Work – Humor Is The Only Way Sometimes

The Lead, 6 hour+ print chaos; let’s address and tackle these Ender Upgrade Adhesion Issues.

We will put the Halot Sky Resin vat cover issue, on hold and focus on the Ender 3 Neo Max bed adhesion problems. It has taken over 5 hours to troubleshoot, with fans running and a cooling bed plate. There are numerous issues to tackle!

Let’s Troubleshoot

Extruder Pressed Down

Bed Inspection

Extruder Removed

Sensor Globule

Heating Element

Close Up

Track Bands Off

Missing Tension Knobs

Current Status, Visual Check

Secondly, we are missing hand-tension screws and tension belts. There is a literal mess of PLA covering 60% or more of the printer, extrusion head, bed and assembly. Fortunately, I walked in post-print as a tension belt was in the process of removing itself from the printer head.

Moreover, that concludes the visual inspection portion of the Ender Upgrade Adhesion Issue. Moving forward, we have the printer head back together, PLA cleaned off, tension belts applied. Next and not captured below, replace adhesion plate, tension screws, and restart the machine for calibration. Look for update posts here in the next day or two.

Next, what is the purpose of the print? Let’s replace the cover on the Halot Sky (V1) Resin vat, I am not sure where the original cover has gone – it could have been broken or lost. More importantly, the print itself was lost. From the perspective of the ‘pressman’, the printable seems to have failed to adhere to the build plate. Following a settings check, the discovery was around ‘ironing’ or issues around ironing. Also, the printer head was buried into the print plate. This is not good for the printer or its parts. Additionally, there was a concerning sound of tension belts releasing and printer head/plate friction. However, the print fix is currently being fixed, and we will provide an update at a later date or time.

Finally, we replace build plate, hand screws, springs, restart/update firmware and calibration.

June 27, 2023March 30, 2025

Ender Filament and Adhesion Issues

Filament Challenges, Turmoil and More

3D Printer Adhesion Issues with PLA and TPU

Print Plate Surface Adhesion and Heating Issues

Lab Work – Ender Issues Defined

A few more weeks of Ender issues…

Ender Filament and Adhesion Issues, are causing a delay in the TPU Neo Max upgrade progress. I will be sharing more Ender ‘lite’ issues, as we continue the TPU trial and face filament challenges. The filament change was primarily for lab work on bait designs and future locking mechanisms where TPU will be more appropriate. Despite this tangent, core printing has not ceased, I am still facing challenges with PLA.

Ender Filament and Adhesion Issues

There are countless issues that seem infinite at the moment. Everything from Creality Software to Ultimaker Cura, Sonic Pad issues, filament running temp, and new surface temperature problems… we have a lot of cover. I will break these down into 2 or 3 new posts over the next week. We will also revisit surface adhesion. Surface adhesion and surface temperature seem to be causing most of the issues on the Ender Max Neo. I must admit, tinkering doesn’t always result in perfect prints, even 60% to 80% of the time. I won’t argue, I’ll just focus on testing… the more runs, the better chance we have of increasing that 60% likelihood of successful prints.

Pictures will follow, as they say, a picture is worth a thousand words. The pictures will be shared to specifically cover thickness, fragility and test prints. Let’s get to printing!

April 14, 2023April 3, 2025

Halot Sky Break-fix

Creality Halot Sky Troubleshooting Break-fix

Creality Halot Sky – Resin Liner Change Out

Lab Work – Working Out The Bugs, Halot Sky Resin Printer

Before you begin you own 3D printing, journey, including purchasing a 3D printer, we need to discuss break-fix: the Halot Sky Break-fix which follows up on the LCD replacement just a few months ago.

First, it is crucial to understand how to maintain and troubleshoot printers. The same applies to addressing major printing issues, such as breaking down the entire printer to the board level. This also includes dealing with misprints, which can occur frequently. Proper care, cleaning, and resin management are essential tasks, including swapping resin liners and cleaning resin drips meticulously.

Liner Change

Liner Frame

New Liner

Attached are few sneak peek video clips and photos of our latest test prints and demos. We have some ‘real-world’ solutions coming soon. More creations on 3D software and 3D applications such as TinkerCad, Autodesk – AutoCAD, Creality (design) software, SolidWorks and more. We have started with TinkerCad and AutoCAD so that we can print prototypes and finish products within a few hours. Got any ideas? Need 3d prints? Leave us a comment or drop us a line on the Connect. Please include: file type, filament, sizes etc. Let’s see what we can come up with! As usual leave a comment below, let us know what you’re thinking?

August 16, 2022March 30, 2025

Samsung Galaxy 21 5G

Galaxy Update

Samsung Galaxy S21 5G

Lab Work – Samsung Galaxy 21 vs. iPhone Series Hardware

Our Samsung Galaxy 21 5G (S215G) Experience, more performance, less pain to privacy with optional dualSIM card capability. Choose wisely young Skywalker; Pain-to-Privacy, Cost-to-Performance, our take on the matter.

U-Turn Ahead

Update* The decision was changed, while we chose the S215G over iPhone11/iPhone12/S22 and the idea worked in theory… The reality here is dual SIM cards are a ‘go’ on S10 and S22, not on the S20. Quick U Turn here as the S20 swap takes place, swapped out for the S21. Ultimately, the choice is the standard size, S22+ or Ultra not an ideal size for our needs. Again, the device is not the latest, nor the greatest; it’s the best for our needs.

Galaxy Series 22 | 22+, here is the comparison page that’s nice to start with –
S Model Comparison – 22 Ultra, 22+ and S21

A Move Toward S21

After many, many, many months of testing. retesting, and learning more about eSims or (electronic SIM cards), we were able to maintain ownership of the latest software and hardware. After evaluating performance and cost, we ultimately decided on the S21.

The S21 coasts better battery life than the S10 with a dualSIM option or hybrid sim option allowing for multiple numbers on a single device. It also offers 5G cellular service, and upgrades to the hardware, display, camera, when compared to other S models.

Compared to other Samsung models like the Flip or fold, as well as devices from Pixel (Google), Xperia (Sony) and iPhone, the S Model remains affordable in a touch device-saturated market. It is top of its class in terms of usability, user experience, control, privacy*, and bloatware.

Comparables

When considering ROI, it is important to look at comparable ROI in the market in terms of price and performance. An emphasis is placed on privacy, with the goal being to maintain and secure the device without having to depend on Samsung, Google, or other third-party hacks for security. While this may require a lot of effort, the benefits in terms of privacy make it worth the pain. The balance between pain and privacy is becoming increasingly important and cannot be ignored.

Post updates, interested in more Samsung related materials, check out Samsung Next Generation phones, like the s10+ Damage Video and reasons to upgrade to the latest and greatest.Anyhow, check out comments, do you research… iOS 16 is out now, good luck!

August 17, 2020April 3, 2025

EMAX Fix – Part 1

EMAX Repair Start

Hack-A-Thon Part 1

Lab Work – EMAX Fix – Part 1

On The Bench – TH2

Assess The Damage, Teardown

Back from the airfield, EMAX Fix – part 1. Be sure to check out the rebuild of in this series in the EMAX Quad Motor Rewire Video posted just before.

The airfield was clear, with no traffic, especially over in the helicopter and quadcopter area, so we were good to go. I unpacked the TH2 from its flight bag, got it out and up in the air with no problems. After a final check of the batteries and controller, we were ready to go. The weather was clear, and according to the flight radar, it was a clear day with mild temperatures and wind gusts of around 2-5mph. So, up we go!

Teardown

Reattach Antennae

Solder Antennae

Antennae Position

Lift is good, strong, and perhaps the easiest part of controlling the drone in flight. These drones when properly tuned , offer a smooth and vanilla flight experience. Be sure to check out the binding process using BetaFlight to bind/connect the flight controller to the remote.

There are a lot of things happening at once when flying the EMAX drones. You have to be mindful of your location, both as you ascend and descend. The flight went well, as planned/expected. I did a few loops, full power, turns, and hard bankings just to set the pace. Don’t forget to check the battery warning before your flight.

Power Leads, LED’s

Clip Leads

Resolder Leads

Clean Power Leads

Set Leads Properly

LED Seated

Now, at this point it was time to bring the TH2 home safely. As you can imagine, trouble came knocking. Damage report, minor issues included 2 LED strips out, severed antenna, severed power leads loose (+positive lead), and burned or malformed poly-frame. Don’t forget, this might be a good time to talk about light weight, super adhesives like Starbound – Super Fast. Which can be used, sparingly to tack down the led leads. We fixed the issues by clipping and prepping for new wires, ordering new LED strips and poly frame, replacing the antenna, re-soldering leads, and shrink-wrapping wires where applicable.

Similar Emax status update, time has moved on since the original article and I wanted to share additional Emax content where applicable. If you’re looking for Emax content, give these a shot (in reverse order from this postings date) – ReFit Emax Flight Controller, Emax Fix Part 1 (this article) and Part 2, Quadcopter Rewire, and the TinyHawk 2.

Wrap Up Part 1

Find EMAX parts, and more, through our Amazon Affiliate links, or visit the EMAX – US Store. For additional reference, check out the UAV Performance software used to update and run the EMAX TH and FRSky Taranis QX7s controller or more from the devs of Betaflight. Own it and have fun!

August 16, 2020April 3, 2025

EMAX Fix – Part 2

TinyHawk 2 Repair, In Progress

eMax Fix – Hack-A-Thon Part 2

Lab Work – eMax Fix – Part 2

On The Bench – EMAX Tiny Hawk 2

In this case, we are addressing the second half of the build. Just to clarify or set the stage we have returned from the airfield with the eMax TinyHawk 2 in disparate need of repair. this is eMax Fix – Part 2. This is not the first time, nor the last time we will have this drone on the bench for repair. If you are interested in getting into drone flying, check out more EMAX Drone Kits, Drones and more here.

Total Damage, Repair

While difficult, soldering in new, nano-sized parts on these micro drones requires serious patience. Looking back, the drone may have encountered a gust of wind or air under the drone motor poly-frame; it’s hard to say. The crash wasn’t as severe as others, but the drone ended up sustaining more damage than usual. We’ve had to replace a fan blade, FC, or motor from time-to-time, but nothing like this.

Power On, Visual and Manual Checks, Power Down

LED’s Confirmed

Power On Chimes

Remove Battery

Read eMax Part 1 if you would like. Also, be sure to watch the successful rebuild video for this series EMAX Quad Motor Rewire Video which was posted just before the wrap-up article.

Additionally, similar Emax status update, time has moved on since the original article and I wanted to share additional Emax content where applicable. If you’re looking for Emax content, give these a shot (in reverse order from this postings date) – Drone Accessories, ReFit Emax Flight Controller, and TinyHawk 2.

Wrapping up the final steps, we encountered a few minor issues: 2 LED strips out, the antenna, replace positive and negative power leads, same for two of the motor wires, and a burnt out/malformed poly-frame. To fix these issues, we clipped and prepped for new wires, ordered new LED strips and a new poly frame, replace the antenna, re-soldered leads, and shrink-wrapped wires where applicable.

September 5, 2018March 31, 2025

Learn & Apply

Are you Results Driven, How do you become Results Driven?

Being A Results Driven Organization

Methodology – Learn & Apply

First, Learn & Apply… What was your hypothesis? How did you test it? What did you learn from the test results? Any viable ideas? Did you retest and test again? Do you need to test once more?

Secondly, the challenging part arises: where do we apply our learnings? Do we cease learning? Do we work with others? The answer is certainly no. The question then becomes: when and where should you begin testing again once you’ve implemented a change, reduced redundancies, or enhanced system improvements? The time to learn is now. Or is it time to apply those findings elsewhere and make further adjustments to redundancies or system improvements? Does it sound as simple as that?

Thirdly, there are often more questions than answers, so it’s important to always strive to learn and apply new knowledge. If we stop learning, our progress may also come to a halt. Remember, you have the power to make a difference in your business, with your people, and for your brand. Lastly, we advocate for achievable changes and encourage continuous testing. We test, retest, and test again to learn from behaviors, analyze results, and effectively implement change.

As usual, please leave a comment below and let us know what you’re thinking!

September 5, 2018March 31, 2025

Test

Value Added Results

Test, Test, and Retest – Finding value

Methodology – Test

Those of you who have partaken in usability test(s), have been to a usability center etc.

Many, many days spent in corp usability labs; fun times, good people. However, I felt sometimes the point was to justify change or boost numbers for change; in actuality it may have skewed the data. I digress!

Quickly, onto our fifth message here, this message is around ‘evaluation’ and ‘experimentation’… the value of, say an auto inspection, might reveal brake issues or failing tires. How often you inspect those tires or exam those brake parts, with determine cost of repair. How does this apply to your products and services?

Next, I prefer to test, (if money was no object), or I had the time to just test for the sake of testing I would do it. Fortunately, I’ve had the luxury of both. While working for myself and large corp. Goal is to find results both long-term and short-term, evaluations performed in my career. So, I guess the value in this article is the years spent testing, 24 years and counting. In that same vain, pilot studies, and small tests have value as well; working to reduce some cost, gain some efficiency over some defined length of time or duration.

Right? It’s probably why I test as often as I do, personally. The goal is to find products and services that fit and make my life experience better or ‘buy funnel’. Oh, quick story, desktop vs mobile (those were fun, before mobile first or device agnostic design)… circa 1999-2000. Hundreds of users tested, mix results; more focused results were skewed as were the broader ‘organic’ type. Data is a funny thing. In hindsight, I can’t stress this enough, the value of analysis; is the value of the experiment itself.

Very High Level – Have problems, Find Solutions

I’ll keep it surface level, exploration is great for any number of things, seat belts, fire retardant blankets and safety clothing or fishing gloves. How would you retrieve your fish hook from a fishes mouth with out kevlar gloves(I don’t go fishing without them). How about Gorilla Glass, how it splinters? Apple Device failure, no warranty? Try for example, Apple Self Service Repair options will work for your situation. Or how much pressure it takes to cause a catastrophic glass failure. Or, take for example, a drone not working, DJI gimbal issue, we’ve got get out to the airfield and perform flight maneuvers requiring video or the act of actively capturing video in flight . Things I know to well.

I’ll confess, testing is a part of life, it’s how we learn. I would say often, do it regularly, try on your ‘off days’, try on your ‘on’ days and always retest if you can. The value is finding similarities to the experience you want your customers to have when they interact with your products and services. Re-do’s, as many times as you can; adjust your hypothesis, adjust your trajectory of change.

CBA – Cost-to-Benefit Analysis

Obviously in the real world, there is a point of diminishing return, but from a business justification, it’s a heck of a lot cheaper to fix a small sample assessment than fixing large, system level production changes; live. This goes for code, speeches, design, spelling, text messages, SMS, phone calls, or chat.

Lets’s explore the entire process, starting with hypothesizing (as highlighted in the previous article, active idea generation), then moving on to testing, learning & applying. We discuss these topics and more in our marketing and methodology articles covering possible changes, navigating challenges, improving vision, and knowing when to seek improvement or transformation. While there are many other topics to consider, let’s start here!

Once we complete our testing, we learn & apply our findings. As usual leave a comment below, let us know what you’re thinking?

October 1, 2017April 2, 2025

Supreme Bar Review

Database, Membership and Upgrades

Personalized Bar Exam Coaching via Supreme Bar Review

Lab Work – Supreme Bar Review

Try Supreme Bar Review, Get Help With The MPRE, Personalized Exam Coaching, Lectures and more.

Explore the premier reference resource in print, online lectures, tutoring options and workshops all within one learning platform. The owner, who is also the owner/operator of a family business, was looking to market the site differently. They wanted to clean up the website and enhance the database.

Further development included operating multiple parent and child sites concurrently driven by WPD, PHP, plugins and eCommerce solutions for online book sales. More details included Web • PHP(Backend) • DB • eCommerce/Shopping Cart. This was a crowning achievement for us at Sallee Technology. Additionally, we focused on building out the reference materials and shop experience, workshops, lectures and videos as mentioned earlier, making it all-encompassing.

It was a pleasure to work with Marc and his creations, glad to have had the chance to work with Mr. Rossen and family. For other law examples or looking for family planning, a local practice and Beachwood attorney, check out Madorsky Law Practice for legal help.

This was a time of great growth, transitioning traditional ‘reference materials’ and book products online while offering more dynamic resource and in-person learning opportunities with more versatile, global, consumable product offering. We aimed to solidify our position as the only source for bar examination preparation, study guides, lessons, and more.

Before you go, explore other educational services and work associated with The University of Cal. Berkeley, City Year, University School and more. Enjoy!