Tag: Next steps

Personal and professional growth, benefits of identifying positive and negative transformation or next steps forward. Take a swing, small steps.

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Board and Slicer Downloads

Downloads, Boards, Slicers & More

Creality v4.2.2 Board

Creality – Ender 3 Max Neo, Halot Sky & Prusa

Tech And Tools – Software Support

Let’s start with the most important stuff, the upgrade includes a new Board and Slicer Downloads. For future use and for those who need software support, especially those of you who are using a Creality Ender 3 Max Neo 3D Printer.

Additionally, If you who have Creality products, and are printing with the Ender series, you may require the following software below. Also, to note, the drivers/software have already been used in different (various) stages of the rebuild and/or upgrade process: Ender Build articles, Series 2, Ender TPU Upgrade.

Here is the list of Creality and Prusa Board, Software and Slicer Downloads:

  1. Creality Halot Sky – Firmware or Slicing (bottom) – https://www.creality.com/pages/download-halot-sky?spm=..page_1934481.products_display_1.1&spm_prev=..index.header_1.1
  2. Ender 3 – Neo Max – Firmware – https://www.creality.com/pages/download-ender-3-max-neo?spm=..product_3b7a3c8a-7861-4186-9818-614e8eb14170.nav_link_store_1.1&spm_prev=..page_1967279.products_display_1.1
  3. Slicing (bottom) – https://www.creality.com/pages/download-ender-3-max-neo?spm=..product_3b7a3c8a-7861-4186-9818-614e8eb14170.nav_link_store_1.1&spm_prev=..page_1967279.products_display_1.1.

Also, included some of Prusa’s gear; Board and Slicer Downloads:
Prusa I3 MK3S+ Kit – Firmware, Drivers and more. Prusa has all the goods on their printers, accessories and/or printer kits.

Finally, don’t forget to check back from time to time (I check quarterly for updates, which might be over done). The sooner the better when it comes to some of these printers. Not so much with the print software, I’ve only had luck with the original software for the latest build. Again, not sure why that is, but, it the current course of action so that the prints have uniformity. Cheers.

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TPU Upgrade Process

Install New Direct Drive, Build Plate Upgrades

Completed Build

TPU Action – Upgrade Process

Max Neo Upgrades: The Upgrade Process, Part of the TPU Action Series

Now, let’s discuss the Creality Max Neo 3D Printer Upgrade – unboxing, teardown, install of upgrade parts. Our goal is to improve TPU scalability and production quality. As a side note, we received a refurbished Max Neo and will cover the PETG settings and troubleshooting process in our next article.

First, we have already discussed the reasons for upgrading the parts and quality benefits it brings. We have purchased the necessary parts for the updates to increase our success rates. Now, let’s move on to the physical upgrade.

Unbox Upgrades

Let’s get started, shall we? We have  got our boxes and can officially begin the TPU Upgrade process. Continuing, all parts have been unboxed, including the new extruder with direct drive that features an easy-to-install quick connect with locks on the print head. Additionally, we have the rail cart for bolting the extruder to the rail and powering it with the axis motors. Next, we have the new silent motherboard, which is necessary for installing the Creality Sprite Extruder Pro kit. Secondly, we have the new bed plate ready to go. Once the process is complete, we will test the machine first without the upgrade and then with it to ensure everything is printing smoothly.

Unbox Parts, Printer Teardown and  Disassembly References
Motherboard

Motherboard

WiFi Box 2.0

WiFi Box 2

Sprite Extruder Pro Kit

Sprite Extruder Pro Kit

Sprite Assembly Pro Unboxing

Extruder Pro

Power Down

Power Down

Unplug

Unplug

Prep Screen & Unplug

Prep Screen

Disconnect Motors

Disconnect Motors

Starting the TPU upgrade process? Let’s begin by removing all power cords. If you have a Wifi 2.0 Box or Sonic Pad, those should also be powered down and their cords removed. I prefer to start fresh with no cords. Now, we have our tech tools. I  will post a link to the shopping list following this post. If you have the original set of tools provided by Creality at purchase, those will work just fine.

Begin Teardown, Be Careful and Take Your Time

Let’s dismantle the printer by taking apart the extruder and the extruder rail cart. After removing a few bolts, we should have the printing area cleared. It’s worth noting here, this printer has had mods previously making the direct drive easily accessible.  For more information on the original direct drive build you can refer to the Ender Teardown and Rebuild – 5 Part Series. In the series, you will see the filament clean up, power cables treatment, e-touch and cable connections from the extruder to the board. Additionally, bolt removal, cart removal, and extruder change. The printing area should now be free of extruder parts and the rail cart

Let’s Keep Going

Look around the 3D printer frame, specifically the drivers, those should be unclipped as well. I also like to disconnect the screen here. There is a clip on the back: the ribbon connector can be unclipped and set aside. Now, gently lift and turn the machine clockwise, placing the machine on its right side or screen side (which has been removed for this exact reason).

The top screw does not need to be removed here; it is one of 4 or 5 screws that hold the motherboard to the base Start by unscrewing the right-hand side first (motherboard side), being careful to unplug the 0.10 A computer fan clip, and then move on to the left side (power side).

Next, Ribbons, cords, and wires of various shades and colors may have shifted around a bit, especially in this case, as the printer was previously upgraded. Therefore, electrical wires or shield tape may be wound tightly. Be gentle with the cover screws, as they will be used again in approximately 15 – 30 minutes.

Quick Recap

Take a look around, assume if you have tilted the machine clockwise on it’s side by roughly 90 degrees and removed the screws. On the left, we are examining power management, and on the right, control.

Equally important, a visual inspection will reveal hot glue on all or most of the motherboard connectors, depending on the condition of the machine.

If the machine is new or refurbished, hot glue is common, so don’t be alarmed!

This is to be expected for Creality machines. We will begin removing the glue using a spudger, hemostats and/or gloved hand. In this process, we start from right to left, starting with the screen connector (rainbow ribbon), the top connector marked GV IN G OUT, the mini two-wire connectors (grey and the black axis wires), the fan wires (yellow and blue), and the red, yellow and black harness. Ignore the power wires for now, we will be address those in the third step. Next, we will move to the top of the board to disconnect the X, Y, Z and E black wire harnesses. You’re almost there, you can do this!

Disassemble Extruder and Motherboard
Internal Fan

Internal Fan

Unscrew Power Cover

Unscrew Power Cover

Power Unit

Power Unit

Unscrew Housing

Unscrew Housing

Motherboard

Motherboard

Hot Glue Removal

Hot Glue Removal

Right-to-left

Start Right-to-left

Disconnect Cables

Disconnect Cables

Fans & Power

Fans & Power

Disconnect Power

Disconnect Power

All Connections

All Connections

Remove Board

Remove Board

Let’s move on to the green locks next. Using a flat head screwdriver, start from right to left to unscrew and remove the red and black wires. Voila! We are now 50% complete. The glue removal process usually takes the longest, making it challenging to navigate the board space. Let’s unscrew the board from the frame (unscrew the two bolts on the front), leaving the last screw on the top, removing the top from the frame. Unscrew the motherboard and set it aside for safekeeping or for use in another refurbished printer in the future. Take a moment to check around the frame, organize the screws and bolts (I recommend using a piece of paper and a Sharpie). Draw a box label it,  and tape the hardware screws securely. 

Motherboard and Extruder Installation

Straightaway, let’s start by removing the new motherboard from its package, if you have not already done so, and placing it into the motherboard (control) space. Additionally,  make sure to safely connect the USB and MicroSD connectors on the board first, then align the board with the appropriate screw mounts on the board. Once the screws are in place, the board should sit firmly in place, secured and ready to go!

Reassemble 3D Printer, Upgrade Reference
Attach New Board

Attach New Board

Left-to-right

Left-to-right

Positive And Negative

+ and –

Fans and Motors

Fans and Motors

Upper Cables

Upper Cables

Seat Cables

Seat Cables

Okay, in reverse, the TPU Upgrade process continues with the new Sprite Extruder raw wire ends. Start by securing the green motherboard locks first, moving from left to right. The power from the power unit should be on the side of the board, with alternative red/back wires. Make sure to read the labels to ensure the correct landing spot for those power wires. Next, connect the yellow/blue fan and the red, yellow, and black wires just below the fan connector. Moving right replace the x-, y- , z-, TB, TH, and GV IN G OUT connections. Now, connect the screen ribbon. Double-check all fittings and  secure the green locks on the board to ensure a snug fit.

Finally, when working on the motherboard, let’s replace the screws on the power unit side carefully. Run the wires through the notched metal railing and secure the front bolts for the control cover, bottom screws, and the top screws. This is a critical area where you must exercise caution, as the cables can easily break. Take your time here.

Post Installation Checks, Screws, Belts and More

Continuing on, secure the Pro Extruder Kit. Lift, turn, and place the printer  in its center. All wires, ribbons and connectors are ready for the new drive. Next, install the extruder and fit it to the assembly cart. Thirdly, connect the e-touch ribbon cable, seat the cable so that is snug. Fourthly, seat the red hot wire creating a connection between the hot end and the extruder. It may have a tight fit, so now is the time to place the wire while the extruder is loose on the cart. Secure the extruder to the cart mounting point by placing the screws and tightening them down. Moreover, ensure a secure and tight connection, firmly setting the drive in place!

Next, if you machine has an E-touch, screw it to the provided mounting hardware. Ensure a good fit by checking the orientation and making sure the extruder card fits snug on the rail. Securely attach the axis cables or rubber power drive belts. The belts slides into place on the backside of the assembly cart). This should be loose from the  if dismantling process. Firmly, attach axis cables, or rubber power drive belts. Undoubtedly, the belts slide into place (two slots cut out on the assembly cart) on the backside, if you remember during the teardown process. Next, loosen the X/Y axis drive belts using the red knobs, one on the front and the other on the right side. Now, tighten those knobs by turning them clockwise to apply tension to the belts and cart.

Extruder, Power On and Level
Seat Extruder

Seat Extruder

Power On

Power On

Hone & Level

Level

Replace drive connectors, which are key for stable linear and vertical movement. Reference tags will indicate connectors for controlling the x and y drive motors. Install the extruder ribbon by tucking it behind the two black plastic static tabs located just above the connector saddle and ribbon locks. 

Now the real test begins… the TPU Upgrade process continues to the next round! The series progresses, read more about TPU Post Processing or go back to the beginning with TPU Action. Finally, we will cover the initial settings, slicer, accessories and final settings in the next installment, so stick around. If you’re new to the series you can revisit upgrade parts on our affiliate shopping area and review pricing, upgraded hardware reviews, accessories and filament essential for this build. Alternatively, you can skip ahead, review article upgrade parts and accessories in the series opening.

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Max Neo Back Plate

Remove assembly cart screws

Wrong Parts, Wrong Parts Shipped And Received

Old Rail Cart

Back Plate and Rail Wheels

Lab Work – Working Through The Challenges Associated With 3d Printers, Printing, Upgrades and More

Relieved my Max Neo Back Plate, the long awaited parts are on the truck this morning

Quick update, all the parts needed to update the Ender 3 Neo Max to run TPU filament through the new, upgraded parts are in. They are within arm’s reach and ready to be installed to complete the initial TPU build.

Unfortunately, I want to go on record and share a warning. I will post the tear down at some-point. So, the essence of the warning is to be careful what you order. Makes sense, right? Cross reference and cross-check OEM parts, refer t your 3D build, and ensure fit and compatibility.

Build progress has stopped because we have the wrong assembly cart, ideally we should have the Max Neo Back Plate, or back plate. The plate configuration (proper mounting holes, size, shape) is off. If you’re new to the site, check out the Max Neo challenges in the Output archives… For those who just want to see the TPU rebuild go here, but understand his – we had a few prints that went sideways. By sideways, I mean the extruder was found buried in filament, grinding away at the build plate.

What’s Next

Ultimately causing a meltdown, and plate parts found elsewhere etc. Prior to the blow out, we have a few successful TPU test builds are in hand, but are error pron. More like the standard build (Ender 3 Neo Max Bowden Extruder setup, standard build from the factory) minus the upgrade, if you can believe that. Please note that sometimes you have to ‘break’ things to truly figure out the right path or change paths, so to speak.

Anyhow, not to belabor the point here, but, we have all the necessary parts to start rebuilding this machine with the correct parts and extruder. This will allow us to build more ‘things’ with an array of filaments.

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Gadget Backlog

The Gadget Backlog Includes Items Shipping Soon

SHURE Mic

Magnet Switches, Extra (Shop) Batteries, Bodum Whisk, SHURE MV7 Mic, Aupus Air Duster, Klein Tools Precision Screwdriver Set, and Med. D’Addario Celluloid Guitar Picks.

Gear – More Gear On The Chopping Block

What’s that in the box, ((shake)) ((shake)) what might that be? A new shipment, what is in ‘the box’ and on the bench.

Let’s start by sharing this on the big Gadget Backlog, is currently in progress, as space is somewhat limited at the moment. More information on that will be coming soon. As for batteries, I have a few Optima Red Tops ready to go, along with some outback welding where necessary. It’s fitting to mention magnetic tools and switches in this context. Yes, super strong magnets that can be switched on and off with a swift turn of the hand or a switch-type mechanism. This is a very cool item to have around the house, shop, or off-road adventures.

Angle Clamps, Mag  switches and More Welding Tools

I’m curious to know if the welding community has a preference for welding square/angle holders, clamps, plunger/light switch types, magnetic holders etc., perhaps at no cost. Obviously, if you’re out on the trail, off-roading, doing trail break-fixes, integrity and rigidity might take precedence over OEM specs on angles or manufacturer measurements. When it’s time to getting your off-road rig off the trail, would something like this help to bring your efforts in line with those manufacture specs per say. Anyhow, these switch magnets might be handy to have around the shop. Various types – Angle Clamps, Magswitch Clamp, Stackable Magnets or Adjustable Angle Magnetic Welding Squares.

So, let’s discuss cover what has been unboxed… the Bloom Frother. As you know, the hand mixer needed some adjustments. A few screws, new batteries, some isopropyl alcohol… and we are back in action. You all know I’m a big coffee and tea enthusiast, but if not, that’s okay too. I like my coffee and tea with a few pinches of Sugar in the Raw, and depending on the time of day, I may add some half-and-half to adjust the temperature.

There are a few handheld frothers out there in various color and materials… the Bloom is now revived, with new batteries and ready to mix. So, I am please with the purchase for now. I will provide an update on the long-term usage of the Bloom fix. I must admin, an alternative option might be the Bodum Schimuna Whisk, which has a piqued my interest. For those of you in the market for a micro whisk/frother, the Bodum Schimuna might make a great client gift at some point.

SHURE and Aupus

Next on the Gadget Backlog, we have the SHURE MV7 USB mic! Initial thoughts – great sound, crisp dynamic tones and easy to use. Another step forward towards audio/video experiences. The microphone includes a desktop friendly microphone stand. MacOS users will need to download the SHURE Application to mix and control the external accessory. There is a bit more work involved in getting around the need to purchase additional cables, XLR adapters or fittings. Look for a deep dive, and pictures to accompany the post.

Air Blaster

Moving on, let’s talk about ditching the air duster can for a powerful, corded air duster like the Aupus APAD15BL Air Duster. Air cans have served their purpose for many years, especially when paired with electrical-friendly wipes. While we are on the topic of air gadgets, we have more air tools coming your way – Inflators, Air Compressors, Nailers and more.  The air compressor even comes with a hand air blower tool for outdoor jobs. Like the air blower,  this plug-and-play air cannon offers variable speeds, cleaning tools, and filters. This small, office-friendly tool is handy to have in and around the shop as well. While we are discussing gadgets and tools for the shop/office, we are enhancing the Makey tech tool set by adding a set of Torx screwdrivers (T3 – T10) – Tekprem Torx Screwdrivers.

One downfall I’d like to mention is the integrity of the star and Torx bits. Torx and star bits are delicate and can easily get damaged. A word of caution you have to be careful with nano screws and give it time. Consider replacing the bits or the entire set with a set like these. What I’m observing is that screw lock… can be more beneficial here, but it does take a toll on the micro-bits used to drive in our unwind electronic screws. I’ll provide more feedback and comments on the Torx set and air cannon as we use those items on the bench.

D’Addario celluloid

Finally, last on our big Gadget Backlog list, we picked up a new guitar pick. Most are similar, with smooth or textured surfaces. The main problem I’m having is grip. After a few minutes, grip becomes an issue… it might be the ‘player’, but slippage is a problem. Sweat seems to be the culprit. Odd, huh? So, I’ve added a mixed bag of D’Addario Celluloid picks to the mix. The goal was to switch it up a bit and try something new. I still have a few Fender Celluloid Medium picks and Dunlop Max-Grip variety.

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TPU Direct Drive Support

TPU Is The Goal, TPU Direct Drive Support Build

Creality TPU Filament

New Assembly, Drive Drive Extruder, Support Back Plate and Rail Wheels

Lab Work – Building and Buying Parts On The Supply List

…A few more days folks, and we can start working on the TPU Direct Drive Support build. A new extruder support plate for the Ender 3 Neo Max is on its way. Not on back order, but waiting the last piece before the rebuild can begin.

Before we proceed with installing the new parts, we discovered an issue with the back support plate (including wheels and bolts) being misaligned. After the printer ‘meltdown’ a few months ago, you can see the results of that print here. The final piece needed for the rebuild is this support back plate. There is too much play and space between the assembly and guide rails. I don’t recall there being any movement between the parts. I would expect there to be little to no wiggle room in those items. However, I can almost light off the assembly housing, extruder, and back plate from the guide rails under tension. This  was a clear sign that it was time to replace the guide rails under tension. think there is no or very little ‘wiggle room’/tolerance in those items. However, I can almost lift off the assembly housing, extruder, and back plate from the guide rails under tension. This was a clear sign that it was time to replace the support plate, bolts, and wheels to ensure an improved upgrade and fix.

New Build

Anyhow, all the pieces and parts have been removed from the initial purchase. We will proceed with the TPU Direct Drive Support build. So, for picture sake, we’ve got the frame, base, and guide rails and that’s it. All parts have been removed for the moment. ~It’s been about 3 weeks now, awaiting the OEM support plate. Ultimately, we are looking at a clean rebuild using OEM parts with a few upgrades (direct drive, replacing the Bowden extruder) to allow for TPU, Wood/Bamboo, Carbon, Metal, Organics and more.

System upgrades might come later, with the goal being more power to compensate for the downforces on the extruder head in the direct drive case. Caution, there are differences between the Direct-drive and Bowden extruders, obviously advantages and disadvantages for both… maintenance and care being the most complex for the direct-drive variety.

More Filament Types

The goal with the direct-drive ‘pivot’ is to improve heat, extrusion pressure, retraction and expand the range of filament materials. For the sake of this article, I will focus on the updated advantages and disadvantages. The comparison is between more materials, heat, pressure, and variety versus maintenance which can be a lot. I personally use the break/fix method, as parts are less expensive to replace in the printer ecosystem. It may not always be the wised choice, but sometimes breaking something is necessary to understand the machine or engineering behind it. In conclusion, having spare parts on hand is helpful. Build yourself a parts bin and consider parting out used or gently used components to reduce out-of-pocket expenses. Learn how to maintain and reuse your gadgets. Remember to fail fast when working on such equipment. Short-term expenses for break-fix situations can save money in the long run when dealing with 3D printers, drones, computers, and more

Final thoughts: Parts can help you build yourself a parts bin. Need updates, board firmware, and Slicers? Download those items here for Creality Software Support.  Part out used and gently used parts to cut down on out-of-pocket expenses. Learn how to maintain and reuse your gadgets. Don’t forget to fail fast, when working on such equipment. Short-term break fix expenses go along way when dealing with 3D printers, drones, computers and more.

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Disposal Problem

Sinkerator - Badger 15ss 3/4

We Found Food and Debris, Fixing A Disposal Problem

Disposal - Internals

No Grind, Time For A New Disposal

Lab Work – Emergency Fix, Disposal Problem

A few weeks ago, we had a minor issue with the sink disposal, hence the disposal problem. The picture here is speaks volumes about the problem we encountered. 

Once the problem was identified, it was clear that we needed to replace the disposal unit while limited pipe reconfiguration. Helps to stay on brand, or within the same brand name (size, fit and disposal location). Upon closer inspection, we found that rust had caused significant damage internally. I had to remove the seal and screws to crack open the top of the disposal unit. Honestly, I  was surprised by how worn out the unit was. It was definitely time for a replacement, and were fortunate to have discovered the issue when we did.

Disposal Parts and Install
New Install

New Disposal Install

Disposal Rust

Disposal Rust

Clean Teeth

Clean Teeth

Interior View

Interior View

Disposal Findings and Fix

Next, the title, “Disposal Problem ‘no grind’, time to replace it a new title. Unfortunately, the 1/2 replacement had a short in the wiring. Being a conscientious consumer, I decided to upgrade to the new InSinkErator 3/4 hp, which you can see here. It was a smart choice as it was the same brand and fit perfectly in the cabinet space. You can see the final installation below. These disposal units are usually plug and play, assuming that piping and plugs are readily available and identical. For this reason, I stuck with the same brand, hoping for seamless setup.

Anyhow, I didn’t want to hack away at the existing pipe or change around the pipe configuration nor the cabinetry etc. Ideally, just a quick swap,  maintain the status quo or better for the drain pipes and the sinks output. In regards to the Badger 15ss, you’ll see the upgrade comes with slight increase in HP, a plastic outer case/shell “marketing” and a sparkly new (newly cleaned) lower cabinet area for the foreseeable future. Quick work of this disposal problem.

What a mess. Moving along, fix in place, watch what you put down the sink etc. Remember to check the sealant between the disposal and connector. We had a little leakage that has now been remedied. Not bad, virtually the same machine, replaced, tools – pliers, pipe wrench, flathead, pipe tape and a small bin in case of water leaks or intrusion in the future.

Quick Fix Format

Like the quick fix format? Check out other quick fix content here such as this disposal problems fix. Learn how to descale your coffee equipment – pots and machines, fix a toilet float, clean and fixpool filter housing and filter problem or try a cell phone charging hack… Check them out!

Finally, hopefully (fingers-crossed), you can learn a thing or two. Be sure to unplug disposals, have some extra ‘shop’ towels to mop up excess water or worse, sink goo. Make sure local power outlets are off and to be safe, turn off water where applicable.

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TPU Update

TPU Components, Direct Drive and More

Creality Extruder, Full Assembly

New Assembly and Drive Drive Extruder

Lab Work – Bolt On Upgrades

We are updating the extruder – TPU Update. Adding a bolt-on direct drive upgrade and replacing the Series 3 full assembly body.

The TPU update is a go. First, PLA is great. TPU is better for certain applications. However, we start with PLA. If you need flexibility over rigidity it is assumed that you want to test TPU filament. First, we will replace the existing assembly body on the MAX NEO and bolt on the new extruder to address the TPU issues*. TPU requires more force to drive the flexible filament through the assembly and out the nozzle. The direct drive will help with ‘refinement’ and focusing on pushing and pulling the filament more accurately and precisely.

Creality Accessories
Unboxing

Unboxing

Drive Motor

Drive Motor

Assembly

Assembly

Remove Extruder

Remove Extruder

Unscrew The Fans

Unscrew the Fans

Assembly

Assembly

Again, in terms of next steps and the TPU Update, the update is not a *requirement,. However, after seeing enough test prints, it’s time to make the switch. Here is the bolt on solution from Creality for the Ender 3-Series, MAX NEO. Moreover, what do I mean by ‘requirement’ above? In my opinion, it would be extremely difficult to print TPU printables using a Bowden drive. I’ve tried, and it doesn’t work well. Finally, the Bowden drive doesn’t provide enough filament force and direct force to the filament through the hot end, hence the need for a direct drive motor. So, I want to emphasize that there’s no need to buy a new machine for TPU printing. Simply, do the swap and you can print both TPU and other high-temperature filaments as well.

Quick update: since this post was shared, we have received the parts for the TPU updates, allows us to begin the direct drive build. TPU filaments and prints can now be done without the necessary upgrades. Let’s get into the build and upgrade action! Side note, before we move off the direct drive action, I’d like to share other Halot updates including the Halot LCD fix and other break-fixes when adding a resin printer to your arsenal.

Stay tuned for additional photos and mini-clips covering the installation soon. In the meantime, here is a brief unboxing and assembly tear-down. Thanks!

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Delete

Remove Accounts Easily, Gain Some Piece Of Mind

Just Delete Me

Delete Yourself (Data) via Just Delete Me

Tech And Tools – JUST DELETE ME

Need to delete an account, permanently? Could be difficult, for some, the process might be virtually impossible.

Close accounts, Sure, try Just Delete Me. I’m not sure how long the sites has been around, but I’ve used it numerous times, especially in late 2012 and late 2018. Sometimes you just need to purge your accounts, to gain some sanity online. Have you ever thought about how often you sign up for an account that goes dormant indefinitely? And what about when you download a game  like Candy Crush or Crash Of Clans and want to completely wipe the data, account and interaction with that company? Just start with Just Delete Me.

Accounts, Data, All The Same
Delete Your Accounts

Choose Wisely

Select an account

Account Selected

Delete Account

Click To Remove

Although, there are many ways to perform this task, JustDeleteMe helps with all of them! Notice the color palette (Difficulty Scale), the ability to perform the ‘deletion’, and the help pages provided by your selected account or entity to purge. Give it a shot and get rid of your accounts! It’s a great time to purge your accounts. For the purpose of this post, we decided to try out the site ourselves, aiming for account freedom and liberation from Basecamp. But, before we go, learn about some other tools we use online to help you! Do you fuzz? Screaming Frog or SEMRush? Email issues? MX Toolbox, flush your system and server cache often. DeleteMe for old accounts, clean up the clutter and fix email risks and issues associated with email services.

Enjoy!

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Flush – DNS Cache

Get Moving Fast

DNS Flush

Flush System DNS CACHE, IP Address Wisdom And More

Tech And Tools – More Reference Than Tool, MacOS Flush DNS Cache

A few things to note: from time to time, you may need to flush your DNS cache, understand how your IP address is acting and how to dump, secure, or authorize computer code to start fresh.

Flush DNS Cache – MacOS
  • Plain text: sudo dscacheutil -flushcache; sudo killall -HUP mDNSResponder; say cache flushed
  • Or
  • 1. Command (Apple) + Spacebar
  • 2. Type Terminal, strike enter
  • 3. Select to Open ‘Mac Terminal Application’
  • 4. Type sudo dscacheutil -flushcache; sudo killall -HUP mDNSResponder; say cache flushed, strike enter
  • 5. Terminal will request “Sudo” password, enter Sudo password, and strike enter
  • 6. Assuming the password given is correct, the system will state “Cache Flushed as indicated in the terminal command
  • 7. Command (Apple) + W to close Terminal window
  • 8. Strike Enter to close out window
Flush DNS Cache – Windows
  • 1. Ctrl + R Run Windows Terminal
  • 2. ipconfig /all directing the system to flush all. For more information, you can look up more information by inputting ipconfig?
  • 3. Assuming no superuser credentials needed, strike enter
  • 4. Terminal will confirm, all released and renewed
  • 5. Ctrl + W to close Terminal window

Although this post may seem basic basic, at it’s core, it is. The command has been available since the dawn of the internet allowing users to reset the system as needed. This post will focus on the process of flushing the MacOS DNS Cache. I have included a snippet/script for resolving connection issues, tailored for both MacOS and Windows users who may come across this post. 

What About Other Issues

Experiencing lag? Before we proceed, please note that these terminal commands have been used for a while with limited changes over time. The only differences might be MacOS specific, directing the system to ‘speak aloud – Cache flushed’ when the command has been completed, among other actions. Flushing the DNS cache might just be the trick for your Mac. What exactly is this DNS flushing business? It involves skipping the process of physically deleting your local cache (not internet cache/cookies etc). I’ll also post something about that.

So, we are talking about flushing the DNS? Let’s begin with a brief explanation of DNS – Domain Name Server. If you need more information on DNS, you can check out Cloudflare’s Definition of DNS to understand how it works, and so on.  Essentially, the DNS translates domain names into  IP addresses, which are essential for navigating the internet. Without DNS, web browsers wouldn’t be able to load websites. For a more in-depth look, I recommend reading the  Cloudflare article for more details.

In a day or two, I will follow up with a post on WhatIsMyIPAddress about deleting ‘local user cache’ files on your Mac. It will make more sense in a few days if you haven’t a chance to troubleshoot your own computer issues related to internet speed, lag, and connections. Let’s conclude with this, do you fuzz? Screaming Frog or SEMRush? Email issues? MX Toolbox, flush your system and server cache often. Delete old accounts, clean up the clutter and fix email risks and issues associated with email services.

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Ender Upgrade Adhesion Issue

Adhesion Issues, Bed Temp, Roughen The Surface

Ender Issue 26

Latest Ender Chaos

Lab Work – Humor Is The Only Way Sometimes

The Lead, 6 hour+ print chaos; let’s address and tackle these Ender Upgrade Adhesion Issues.

We will put the Halot Sky Resin vat cover issue, on hold and focus on the Ender 3 Neo Max bed adhesion problems. It has taken over 5 hours to troubleshoot, with fans running and a cooling bed plate. There are numerous issues to tackle!

Let’s Troubleshoot
Extruder Pressed Down

Extruder Pressed Down

Bed Inspection

Bed Inspection

Extruder Removed

Extruder Removed

Sensor Globule

Sensor Globule

Heating Element

Heating Element

Mend

Close Up

Track Bands Off

Track Bands Off

Missing Tension Knobs

Missing Tension Knobs

Current Status, Visual Check

Secondly, we are missing hand-tension screws and tension belts. There is a literal mess of PLA covering 60% or more of the printer, extrusion head, bed and assembly. Fortunately, I walked in post-print as a tension belt was in the process of removing itself from the printer head.

Moreover, that concludes the visual inspection portion of the Ender Upgrade Adhesion Issue. Moving forward, we have the printer head back together, PLA cleaned off, tension belts applied. Next and not captured below, replace adhesion plate, tension screws, and restart the machine for calibration. Look for update posts here in the next day or two.

Next, what is the purpose of the print? Let’s replace the cover on the Halot Sky (V1) Resin vat, I am not sure where the original cover has gone – it could have been broken or lost. More importantly, the print itself was lost. From the perspective of the ‘pressman’, the printable seems to have failed to adhere to the build plate. Following a settings check, the discovery was around ‘ironing’ or issues around ironing. Also, the printer head was buried into the print plate. This is not good for the printer or its parts. Additionally, there was a concerning sound of tension belts releasing and printer head/plate friction. However, the print fix is currently being fixed, and we will provide an update at a later date or time.

Finally, we replace build plate, hand screws, springs, restart/update firmware and calibration.

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Ender Filament and Adhesion Issues

Filament Challenges, Turmoil and More

3D Printer Adhesion Issues with PLA and TPU

Print Plate Surface Adhesion and Heating Issues

Lab Work – Ender Issues Defined

A few more weeks of Ender issues…

Ender Filament and Adhesion Issues, are causing a delay in the TPU Neo Max upgrade progress. I will be sharing more Ender ‘lite’ issues, as we continue the TPU trial and face filament challenges. The filament change was primarily for lab work on bait designs and future locking mechanisms where TPU will be more appropriate. Despite this tangent, core printing has not ceased, I am still facing challenges with PLA.

Ender Filament and Adhesion Issues

There are countless issues that seem infinite at the moment. Everything from Creality Software to Ultimaker Cura, Sonic Pad issues, filament running temp, and new surface temperature problems… we have a lot of cover. I will break these down into 2 or 3 new posts over the next week. We will also revisit surface adhesion. Surface adhesion and surface temperature seem to be causing most of the issues on the Ender Max Neo. I must admit, tinkering doesn’t always result in perfect prints, even 60% to 80% of the time. I won’t argue, I’ll just focus on testing… the more runs, the better chance we have of increasing that 60% likelihood of successful prints.

Pictures will follow,  as they say, a picture is worth a thousand words. The pictures will be shared to specifically cover thickness, fragility and test prints. Let’s get to printing!

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Ender 3 Max Neo Filament

Printer Base Stabilization, Adhesion and Print Height

Filament Everywhere

Ender 3 Max Neo Filament Solutions

Lab Work – TPU Speed and Cycle Times

For this article on the Ender 3 Max Neo Filament, a typical print cycle might run between 2-5 hours, possibly more. While the standard range has been 2-5 hours, we are now looking at 12 – 16 hours. Recently, we have extended the top maximum run times to just under 12 hours for our test models. Surprisingly, both print tests resulted in the a mess.

Let’s Assess The Situation

For the record, a paper towel holder caused this issue twice. Upon initial observation, as the prints moved vertically (up the y-axis), the printing quality deteriorated. Somewhere between the 4″ and 5″ mark, both test prints went awry.

I’m starting to think there is shaking issue with the table or even a stabilization issue where the printer. is located. We can address both issues by printing the base slices, holder ends, screws, rods, and washers in a single print. Print these items separately to attach the towel roll and the rod. The rod that is slung between the holders can be printed in a secondary or tertiary step, This is mitigation issue number one, or we could address the stabilization directly. The printers are currently positioned where they stand, so there is not much I can do to move them around.

Once I received the new filament, we will print the rod. If it works, great. If not, then step two will be more tedious. The issue is mostly a space problem in the office. The filament should arrive later today, and I will post a quick summary once I finish printing the rod slice, assuming it is successful.

Ironically, a similar issue was occurring when I ran TPU through the machine. So we can conclude the Ender 3 Max Neo Filament post with this. Although I don’t think they are related, adhesion; more on software upgrades, filament PLA adhesion and TPU upgrade adhesion was the issue with TPU. Which we will address in a future post once we determine the correct nozzle temps, print speed, and adhesion setup. I have heard/read about using adhesion spray or glue stick. Another day, we will tackle those 3d printer issues/phantom printing phenomenon.

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3d Printer Usage

3d Printers, New, Used Or Refurbed

Halot Sky

Best 3d Printers On the market 2023

Lab Work – 3d Printers

See 3D Poll Below (closed), participate in the ‘who’s who of 3D Printer Usage Brands and Manufacturers’.

The poll has since closed on 3D Printer Usage. However, what we discovered is interesting. The question was ‘What 3D printers have you used, any success’? We are specifically looking for a TPU thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) filament option. Tests with the NEO Max have been inconsistent, mostly unsuccessful, unless we swap out filaments. Interesting right? More on the Creality series of printers, Ender Series, Halot and Prusa products. There are others of course, Elegoo, Dremel, Prusa (mentioned prior), Bambu Lab, and Anycubic.

We have generally, for the focus of this 3d Printer Usage message, have been more around product similarities and commonalities with Creality. Choosing to stay brand agnostic per se. More choice, choosing Creality maybe four years or more. Today, we are looking for the best TPU lite printer. Do you have any suggestions regarding 3D print usage or brand? We have used Dremel for cutting and sanding, typical applications for a Dremel tool. As for Prusa, we have only used their products in theory, as some items we have purchased were made via a Prusa lab or outsourced printer. Anyhow, we are looking for feedback or comments. Please kindly leave your commentary below.

Please note, if you’re looking to swap out resin liners for the CL-89 model, it is advisable to purchase a number of them in advance, as they can be difficult to find when global stock is low.

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New Halot Sky LCD

Creality Halot Sky Update

Halot Sky LCD Replacement

Creality Halot Sky Resin 8.9″ LCD Change Out

Lab Work – LCD Screen

I know, we started the last post with “Before you start your own 3D printing…”; this post does follow suit. Let’s hop into the new Halot sky LCD swap.

It looks like a bad LCD screen, that needs to be replaced, as well as the film stretched over the resin vat or possibly just some resin damage, for that matter.

We replaced the monochrome LCD screen on the deck of the Halot Sky while we wait for a new FEP resin vat. Please note, if you’re planning to change resin liners (if you manage to find the correct ones for CL-89), it’s a good idea to buy several of them because they can be difficult to find when global stock is low.

Swapped LCD Screen

Swap details: Deconstruct by removing all screws, covers and metal panels. Be careful to disconnect the wires and ribbon cable for the touchscreen. Replace the screen ribbon in the quick connect being careful to reattach the ribbon and black wire for the touchscreen.

Two, clean up any resin residue, pour over, and spillage now. I believe this is  where we made a mistake. The spillage got under the screen, as shown in the featured image for the article. Have a bottle of alcohol on hand to make the cleanup process as easy and effortless as possible. It took about 15-20 minutes in total, as I mentioned, due to the large amount of spillage. Finally, remove the ribbon tape surround and a few screws to gain access to the LCD screen.

Ideally, you’ll want to take your time, being careful to not to rip the LCD tape, or misplace a screw. If you do lose any items, you can always find new pieces in the Spare Parts. If not, try the eBay shop. We will provide a link to our wares but it’s taking some time due to logistical issues. We also sell out items on eBay from time to time, so check them out – we currently have some King books available.

Liner Change
Halot Liner Change

Internals

Halot Liner Change Out

LCD Change

Halot Liner Before Change Out

Change

Halot Liner Before Change Out

Liner

For those who only need the FEP release film, or for our future reference – FEP Release Film – (search eBay for FEP Release film). A side note: FEP film can be hard to find, so eBay might be your best source. If i were a betting man, which I’m not, eBay or Amazon might be the only two sites where you can find spare parts and film. Cheers!

Before we move off the Halot updates, I’d like to share other Halot usage, new Creality series, break-fixes, and finally the idea of adding a resin printer to the 3d printer arsenal.

As usual leave a comment below, let us know what you’re thinking?

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My Activity

Rid Your Ecosystem Of Search and Location History

Web History and Your Activity

Your Google Activity, What You Need To Know

Lab Work – Manage Your Online Activity

I thought I would throw this out there, for those of you who don’t understand internet ‘activity’ and how to quickly review, remove, delete and stop activity in it’s tracks.

Stop Data Collection  via MyActivity.Google.com

Quick and easy, get rid of and delete My Activity now. Simply go to myactivity.google.com on your computer, assuming you have a Google account. If you’ve new visited this site before, please take the time to do so and research how to disable your data collection if you want to stop the tracking. Additionally, as part of the My Activity removal process, I recommend removing your current account. Followed by creating a new one with all tracking features turned off.

Listen, more people, than you would think have no idea that these devices are collecting information. Specifically, they are collecting health, location, biometric and search data. My Activity is where the important stuff or tracking can be muted, disable and deleted.. Again, that address again, myactivity.google.com. Have a look, good luck. Same can be done on for old accounts – JustDeleteMe, unused mobile games etc., or your mobile devices, for either Android or iOS. I’ll post those items in the next few weeks.

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Halot Sky Break-fix

Creality Halot Sky Troubleshooting Break-fix

Halot Sky vat liner

Creality Halot Sky – Resin Liner Change Out

Lab Work – Working Out The Bugs, Halot Sky Resin Printer

Before you begin you own 3D printing, journey, including purchasing a 3D printer, we need to discuss break-fix: the Halot Sky Break-fix which follows up on the LCD replacement just a few months ago.

First, it is crucial to understand how to maintain and troubleshoot printers. The same applies to addressing major printing issues, such as breaking down the entire printer to the board level. This also includes dealing with misprints, which can occur frequently. Proper care, cleaning, and resin management are essential tasks, including swapping resin liners and cleaning resin drips meticulously. 

Liner Change
Liner Frame

Liner Frame

New Liner

New Liner

Attached are few sneak peek video clips and photos of our latest test prints and demos. We have some ‘real-world’ solutions coming soon. More creations on 3D software and 3D applications such as TinkerCad, Autodesk – AutoCAD, Creality (design) software, SolidWorks and more. We have started with TinkerCad and AutoCAD so that we can print prototypes and  finish products within a few hours. Got any ideas? Need 3d prints? Leave us a comment or drop us a line on the Connect. Please include: file type, filament, sizes etc. Let’s see what we can come up with! As usual leave a comment below, let us know what you’re thinking?

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Raspberry Pi Touch

RPi Touch Running Linux

Touchscreen

7″ Touchscreen Kit Build, Flash and Boot

Tech And Tools – Raspberry Pi Touch

The new Raspberry PI Touch, imager simplifies the process of accessing, flashing, changing, and running your favorite OS.

Making it seamless and ready-to-use. It’s like a game changer for RPI enthusiasts. You can play games, surf the web, and do everything you can locally on this Raspberry PI Touch device. Gamers can also try out RPi Game Emulators and more. To get started, you will need an the new Raspberry kit or parts, a touchscreen USB tethering cable or USB Fob, and your OS of choice.

Drone Accessories
Raspberry Pi Touch - Unboxing

Pi Unboxing

RPI Touch - Setup

Raspberry Pi Setup

RPI Touch - Unwrap

Unwrapped

RPI Touch - Board

Board

We recommend starting with the latest version of each, and using the new imager/software available through Raspberry Pi Imager. One of my absolute favorite tests to run on these mini pcs, testing difference flavors of Linux. A great way to learn other operating systems, UI etc. Certainly a more user friendly way to test variations of OS flavors as well. Below is a full list of items and links, assuming that the items are in stock.

Boot and Install
Raspberry Pi Touch - Build

Build

Raspberry Pi Imager

Imager

Raspberry Pi Marketing

Marketing

Desktop

Desktop

If you enjoyed the Raspberry Pi article and want to learn more about other IoT builds, or Apple Repairs – M1 Chip… be sure to check out Debian Buster Snapdragon 410c Build. Feel free to leave a comment below and let us know your thoughts!

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New Creality Series

A Makers-space Featuring Creality 3d Printers

Creality Series

Creality 3d Printing Series – Ender 3 Neo Max & Halot Sky

Lab Work – Creality Settings

3D printing? If you have a need, give us a call. We will be posting a handful of new work in the weeks to come. From testing and prototyping, to 3D model printing and extruding, resin printers versus PLA/TPU filament printers, the the trials and the tribulations i.e. issues we faced while running our 3D printers. Check out the latest Creality Ender series printers, as we will be covering the Max Neo in this article.

I have attached a few sneak peek video clips and photos of the New Creality Series, showcasing our latest test prints and demos. Als have some ‘real-world’ solutions coming out soon. We will also be putting out some polls regarding 3D software/applications – TinkerCad, AutoCad, Creality (design) software, SolidWorks and more. We have started with TinkerCad and AutoCad so that we can print prototypes to finish products within a few hours.

In The Lab
Creality Tablet

Creality Tablet

Prototypes

Prototypes

Got any ideas? Do you need 3D prints? Leave us a comment, drop us a line on the Connect, please include: file type, filament, sizes, etc. Let’s see what we can come up with!

As usual leave a comment below, let us know what you’re thinking?

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Email Deliverability Issues

Testing Deliverability With The MXToolbox

MXToolbox Supertool

MXToolbox, Solve Email and Deliverability Issues

Tech And Tools – Finding The Right Tools

The right tools for the right job, Email Issues; Deliverability. Give MX Toolbox at try.

Sometimes choosing the right tools is more about solving the right problem rather than creating more problems with additional tools. What do I mean by this? Are you experiencing domain issues, spam problems, or email deliverability challenges? If you need DNS assistance, consider  using MX Toolbox. The MXToolbox web app offers a variety of tools to address DNS questions, domain issues, spam, or hacking concerns. I often rely on the MXToolbox “SuperTool” for support in these areas. This tool is incredibly useful to have in your digital toolbox for email, domain, and DNS support. Additionally, support representatives for tiered hosting, email, and specific applications can also provide valuable assistance. 

ToolKit
login

Login

Manage

Manage

Blacklist

Blacklist

Commands

Commands

Lookup

Lookup

Findings

Findings

Tools Full Details

Tools Full Details

Verify

Verify

Anyway, take a look at the screenshots, no time like discovering deliverability issues just after the holiday. It’s good time to kick the tires on a less common issue these days. MX Toolbox is my go to application when I need digital eyes on a problem. There are several images here, so hopefully you can get an idea of what’s available. You can also visit MX Toolbox – Supertool.

Do you Fuzz? Screaming Frog or SEMRush? Email issues? Flush your system and server cache often. Delete old accounts, clean up the clutter and fix email risks and issues associated with email services.

Don’t overlook the ‘all tools’ link on the far right side of the main navigation, which is the ‘toolshed’ mentioned earlier. If you choose to click on the  ‘all tools’ link, your next step will be to view All Tools in the tertiary navigation, specifically the first tab navigation in the main body.

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Galaxy Series Reset

Samsung Galaxy S21 5G Reset

Samsung Galaxy Reboot, Reset, and Unplug

Galaxy Reset or New – Privacy, Backups, Access and More

Tech And Tools – Samsung Updates

Before we delve into our dual-SIM experiments, let’s address the Galaxy Series Reset. I wanted to share some Samsung Tips and Tricks that could help you remove unnecessary apps from your Galaxy series devices.

Let’s take a quick look at the world of ‘debloating’. We’ve seen an abundance of pre-installed native apps on various platforms, OS, iOS etc. It feels like were back in the 90’s with PC sales. This trend applies to both Android and iOS devices. Until we have a user-friendly Linux based mobile OS or an open-source mobile kernel that allows us to customize our devices based on our needs, we’re stuck with what we have. 

Mobile phones come loaded with Google bloatware and the same goes for iOS. When did Homekit, Health, Health Sensors and Siri start coming preinstalled and running constantly, making it difficult to disable them? It’s a challenge that won’t disappear with this Galaxy Series Reset. However, a I’ve been exploring new settings, OS-specific adjustments, and techniques to reduce bloat, limit Google access. Whether you have a new generation Samsung smartphone, Galaxy S22, 215g or 10, or a later model, we have some fresh methods to help you regain control of your device.

Diving right into it, whether you’ve got a new phone or not, a hard reset is required… Backup what you need and store it in a safe place. Most of the time it’s automatically saved somewhere, but we plan to take back that control and manually take steps to move the process forward. The time to de-bloat or de-bloat your device is right now.

Short Tutorial

Fresh Hard Reset on your existing phone or set up your new phone from scratch to begin the Galaxy Series reset. First, do not add or allow any Samsung, Google, or non-platform services that you do not want running regardless of their power status. A prominent red warning sign advises against signing in or allowing data transfer to any external services that are not native to the system or necessary. 

NEXT, let’s disable all permissions for apps, stop and remove permissions and alerts for any unwanted apps. This is crucial as we do not endorse the input/output of such apps. Particularly those that are third-party, external, and considered bloat that may track and access your data without your permission. Turn off all unnecessary apps or system apps. Additionally, rearrange your apps as you see fit, grouping Samsung native apps that are essential together in a separate folder with other Samsung or Google apps. Do NOT enable cloud services, sign in, or log into any systems that you may want to use later on, at least not yet.turn on cloud services, sign in or log in to those (any) systems you will want later.. so not just yet.

Wrap Up – Debloat Your Android Device

Finally, it’s time to reintroduce existing settings. We want to re-import contacts and any bookmarks or Same for any bookmarks or saved ‘behavioral’ help settings. Must Have’s  must go for the Google/Samsung requests to access the phone. These actions remain out of touch and are not allowed. Let’s clean up the home screen to your liking and add email accounts as well.  Browser settings when your ready, no go on Chrome, Google or Samsung Internet, we use brave with all turned off…

DON’T FORGET THIS, don’t forget to make sure privacy settings meet your needs. As usual, leave a comment below and let us know what you’re thinking?