Dolphin On

Maytronics Nautilus CC Plus Repair Update

Dolphin Motor Unit Exchange

Dolphin On

Lab Work – Maytronics Repair, Dolphin On, Post Hurricane

Parts are in, Dolphin Has Been Repaired, Cleaning Away

Let’s take a closer look at the process. Upon further inspection, I found corrosion around the motors. The seal around the power cord also appears to be in poor condition. So, I proceed with a teardown, replacing the power unit, and tread ball bearings to restore the robot back to full capacity with genuine OEM parts. A self-test  was performed as need, I conducted a number of in-water and out-of-water tests which worked perfectly. As it should, under normal power. Next, I replaced all parts and picked up where we left off on the last article Nautilus Down (check that out if you missed it).

Pre-Check, Install and Test

Check all cogs, ball bearings, drive pin, and wheel/hub parts. Make sure ball bearings are moving freely and free of rust or degradation. Replaced any parts showing degradation or major rust. Filled electronic parts and pressure seals with pool lube and reconnected parts, careful to screw-down fasteners and plastic nuts with appropriate tension. Dolphin On. Additionally, both out-of-water and in-the-water tests performed as expected. Time for a swim! Cinched down any screws, or screens, package up the robot and ran the clean cycle.

Robot Build
New Unit

New Unit

Connector

Unit Connector

Cross Check

Dry Fit

Tread Check

Tread Check

Proper Fit

Proper Fit

Motor Check

Motor Check

Dolphin on Dry Test

Dry Test

Post Test

Post Test

Brush Down and Toggle The Dolphin On

If you can’t tell, the pool has sand, debris and dragonflies. Before we toggle the Dolphin On, let’s do a quick brush down of the pool to encourage removal.  You can kind of see here the pool was a bit dirty,  as the hurricane kicked up enough debris for the Dolphin to clean. There was no pool cage carnage, or aluminum part failure, which is great. Minor screen damage only.

Maytronics Documents and More

Finally, following the test cycles, Dolphin on, put in the water and cleaned the pool well. In most cases, the vacuum actively cleans on stage 1, please the Maytronics manuals. Find Stage 1 testing and more robot testing features under the Nautilus CC Plus section. I hope this information helps, how to get your pool robot fixed and Dolphin On. If anyone out there needs assistance, please contact me I am happy to help. Thanks! As usual leave a comment below to let us know what you’re thinking!

Dolphin Down

Nautilus CC Plus Repair Needed

Nautlius Motor Troubles

Dolphin Down, Waiting On Parts

Lab Work – Maytronics Repair, Dolphin Down. Let’s fix the Nautilus CC Plus

Looks like a new motor unit is required. Full teardown ahead.

Exciting news! A new series, Dolphin Down, is coming soon. This series is related to the repair of the Maytronics Dolphin Nautilus CC Plus. Currently, we are awaiting the arrival of a new motor unit. In the meantime, we are in the process of dismantling the Nautilus CC Plus robot in search of a malfunctioning drive motor.

The fan motor is functioning properly, passing both tests passed – underwater and out-of-water tests. The multimeter has confirmed that the drive motor is not working. The circuit board appears to be in good, working condition confirmed by the blinking green LEDs. The LEDs indicating that it is functioning as expected. This a positive sign for our robot and the repair diagnosis. 

Robot Teardown
Housing

Housing

Screen Key

Screen Key

Prop Screen

Prop Screen

Cord

Cord

Internals

Internals

Motor Unit

Motor Unit

Remove Prop

Remove Prop

Prop Residue

Prop Residue

Sealed Cord

Sealed Cord

To begin the teardown process, find a safe spot and grab a multi-tool with pliers, flathead and cross bits (Phillips bits). Start by removing the power cord from the unit and unplugging the unit from the wall if necessary. First, on the Dolphin, unscrew the four screws under the filter doors to remove the top. Use the transparent or white flathead key or knob to pop open the propeller gate, which is easily accessible once the filter doors are open.

Next, slide the cord out from under the blue, body cover after removing the four main screws. Adjust the cord, remove the floats and be careful when removing the side panels. These panels should just pop off top down.  Just be aware of the tabs on the bottom of the panels, this is what hold the body shells in place. Use the pliers to unscrew the blue cord connected to the power unit, as well as the four screws holding the two yellow cord strips to the unit. Unscrew the four unit screws holding the motor unit in place and it will be free.

Robot Teardown
Drive Bearings

Drive Bearings

Motor Unit

Motor Unit

Remove Unit

Remove Unit

Board Check

Board Check

Drive Motor

Drive Motor

Finally, check all cogs, drive belts, and wheel/hub parts. Ensure that the ball bearings are moving freely, unobstructed and are free of rust or degradation.  Replace any parts that showing degradation, wear or significant rust. Fill with lubricant and reconnect parts, being careful to screw with appropriate tension. Test the robot out of water first, followed by half-submerged and fully submerged underwater tests. *Updated – Check out the repair – Dolphin On or the first post we commented on regarding the Maytronics Nautilus Dolphin for more information on troubleshooting, maintenance and repairs. More information will be provided in the next *5 business days, as we will be receiving the new motor unit packaging up the robot and running the cleaning cycle. Thank you.

As always, feel free to leave a comment below, let us know your thoughts!

Drone Accessories

Grab Your Drones and Transmitters. We Are Racing

Taranis Carbon Fiber Transmitter

New FrSky Taranis Q X7S, Prop Blades, Batteries and Caps

Gear – Drone Accessories

Adding our at-home, indoor flight “program” (a little tongue-in-cheek), we have new accessories, transmitters and blades – let’s race!

With our Amazon order received,  we have a mixed lot of parts and accessories. It’s time to break out the racing drones again, as we needed a few bits and parts to get them flying just right. A new transmitter, a second FrSky Taranis QX7S (Carbon Fiber) Remote for a second racing drone along with blades and batteries. The goal was to fix what needed fixing and get ready for racing.

And racing we shall! With side-by-side flight, using dual transmitters, we can race real-time, with similar nano drones for indoor racing games. I’ve added toggle caps/covers for those new to quad racing – these caps provide pilots and hobbyists with visual cues and help reinforce muscle memory for which  toggles are active. This aids in remote usage and recognition during take off, flight, landing and crashes.

Lastly, we are in the process of turning over our battery collection, some of which are over 4 years old. A few have problems, but around 4 to 5 remain in good or optimal shape for flight. So,  with a few extra batteries (8 in total, 2 packs of 4 batteries) we can enjoy 15 – 20 minutes of real racing time, assuming normal flight ranges and pilot skill.

Drone Accessories
FrSky Transmitter

FrSky Case

Ready 4 Flight

Ready 4 Flight

Toggle Covers

Toggle Covers

Avan Blades

Avan Blades

EMAX LiPos

EMAX LiPos

Racing Drone

Racing Drone New Blades

Racing Drone

Racing Drone

Dual Racing Drones

Dual Racing Drones

For those of you interested in learning more about the drone hobby, or wanting to see more. I have one more resource for you: the Drone Racing League. The league flies all around the world, but more specifically the race in Germany. The league race took place at DHL Tower – Race 6 (EU), where drones are reaching speeds over 100mph and race skyward over skyscrapers, performing flips beyound your wildest imagination. The race features super high-end drones and professional pilots running quadcopter and competing for money! It’s crazy tech in action.

Other Drone Resources

If you’re new to quadcopter(s) and are wondering what to buy – drones, drone accessories etc., FPV (First Person View) flight, check out @Bardwells YouTube channel for all kinds of tips and fixes (my goto for FC and BetaFlight help). Most videos are extremely detailed, with the goal of getting you hooked! Shout out to Joshua, he’s a legend as his videos played a pivotal role in getting the EMAX drones bound to the original Taranis transmitter via BetaFlight. For parts, check out our shopping list, where I’ll post links to the quadcopter(s) (drones), parts, accessories and more.

We also have a number of articles on the subject matter; including the Emax TH2, drone repair, full-sized drone operation, video in flight and more. Feel free to preview those any time. Interested in a full sized video drone? Check out the DJI Phantom Pro series as well. 

Although it’s been months since we posted anything related to the Taranis Q RC transmitters, more can be found here. Also, if you’re interested in more Emax lab work this two part Emax Series – Part 1 and Part 2 is a great place to start. In order would be best to explore this content, or if you want to jump to the conclusion click on Part 2 for the fix.

Before we sign off, we have to plug our own shopping list, the drone accessories will be posted on the site shortly.

TPU Upgrade Action

Full Install, System Inspection and Testing

TinkerCad Design - TPU Box with compartments

TPU Thermoplastic Polyurethane Upgrade Action – Sprite Extruder, Motherboard and Prints In Flight

Lab Work – TPU Upgrade Action, Max Neo Upgrades: The Parts, the pain and TPU Series

Covering TPU Action, starting with the removal, adding modifications, clean-up effort, settings for successful prints and final production.

Why Upgrade, Pieces and Parts

Let’s start with the why. Why upgrade your Max Neo board, extruder etc.? The easy answer is successful TPU prints. Prints of high quality, with low errors (blips and globs), working usable prints and again, TPU. How long did the upgrades take, i.e. duration, to upgrade the required parts for successful prints? In short, the installation took 30 – 60 minutes, with tweaks taking an additional 2 weeks. The time to achieve successful and consistent prints was 2.5 weeks. This includes time for troubleshooting, adding/removing parts, multiple test prints (which might slightly affect the duration), and finalizing print settings within the Creality Slicer.

Slicer and Pre-Print Preview
TinkerCad Design

Tinkercad Design

Slicer 4.3.8

Creality Slicer 4.3.8

Slicer Pre-Build

Slicer Pre-Build

If you have not checked out TINKERCAD yet, please do. This is where my drawings, ideas and digital designs come to life. It’s a web based application, specifically CAD (Computer Aided Design) software, used in the maker space and ideally in the global manufacturing industry. Tinkercad allows tinkers, students, and teachers to quickly learn, build and create in a simplified AutoCad environment. Tinkercad is like the younger sibling of AutoCad by AutoDesk. This  web-based application is part of the AutoDesk software family which includes Fusion360, AutoCad, TinkerCad, and more. The point here is simple: if you’re looking for fun, easy-to-use CAD program, give Tinkercad a try. It’s free to sign up and create 3D designs, circuits and code blocks. It’s a very cool, fun, and free way to learn something new for #makers.

Next, let’s discuss the cost. It may be helpful to share the components that were included in this upgrade session – TPU Update. The parts are as follows, or you can skip ahead to the upgrade process in the second post of this series. Below, we will cover the parts list, Creality upgrades, Duramic 3D Filament and Wyze Cameras, for live video action.

Upgrade Shopping List – Electronics, Parts and Accessories
Sprite Extruder

Sprite Extruder

Motherboard v4.2.7

Motherboard v4.2.7

Bed Upgrade PEI

TPU Upgrade PEI

Digital Spool Rack

Digital Spool Rack

Wifi Box 2.0

Wifi Box 2.0

Creality TPU Filament

TPU Filament Upgrade

Duramic 3d TPU

Duramic 3d TPU Filament

Wyze Cam Pan

Wyze Cam Pan

Wyze Cam v3

Wyze Cam v3

Refurbed Max Neo

Refurbed Max Neo

Fix 3D Prints and Plastics

Be Creative Without the Hassle

Active Fix

Quick Fix With Super Glue and Baking Soda

Strong Adhesives, Baking Soda and Spray Activator/Hardener Light

Fix plastics, wood lures, wood carvings and more. Fix 3d Prints and Plastics better than traditional fillers or bonding agents.

Adhesives, Clean Up/Deburring
Starbond Kit – Starbond Kit – Glue & Activator Starbond – Super Fast Thin Glue JB Weld – J-B Weld Bonder (2) Pack AFA Tooling – AFA Tooling Deburring Tools
Dremel Tool – Dremel High Performance Rotary Tool Kit
In A Tight Spot, Choose Super Adhesive and Baking Soda

Need a quick fix, while out fishing in the field? Or did a new 3D print break during the clean up process? What should you do now? For a quick fix, simply grab some extra strength glue, our choice, Starbond, Starbond activator, baking soda and start the filling process. This method works on wood, plastics, and more. By using baking soda as the ‘filler’ and the super adhesive as the bonding agent, you’ll have a quick fix in no time. 

If you need to clean up your 3D Printables, fix drones and drone parts, clean up or deburr plastics and filler using super adhesives and baking soda, deburring tools are a must. When producing items from plastics or resin compounds such as wood, metals and plastics, the production process isn’t perfect, leaving you with work post production. Tasks like, trimming for metal stamping or removing travel or supports in the 3D printing process, require specific tools. We  recommend AFA Deburring Tools for hand scraping and clean up, as well as the Dremel Rotary Tool for tile, clay, woods and metals. These tools are handy to have around the shop for various tasks.

Finally, for those tough jobs, or bonds, try JB Weld (J-B Weld Amazon Store). There are many applications for JB weld. Whether it’s loose or broken tiles, outdoor furniture, or any other project, JB Weld Epoxy and adhesives will create a strong and lasting bond using chemical bonding resins.

For a comprehensive list of all products mentioned above, please refer to our affiliate shopping list for ideas, product information, and more. Here are some products you may want to consider! Please note that this is just one method of fixing plastics; it was a test to demonstrate the effectiveness of the adhesive and baking soda powder.

M1 Touchbar

Let’s Rebuild The M1 Touchbar, Keys and Replace The Screen

M1 Preview

Teardown and Rebuild M1 Touchbar

M1 Update – Touch bar

Take your time! I can’t stress this enough. This process of building this feature article, the M1 Touchbar, will require time, patience and a steady hand. It is important to take your time and proceed with caution. The article includes over 50 steps, so proper case is essential. If needed, consider seeing a professional help. There are easier alternatives available, but they may be more expensive.

For example, you could purchase the correct make/model upper case where the touch bar does not need to be removed and replaced.  However, finding the right parts may not be as simple as it seems, especially for a model that is just coming out of warranty. This challenge is common when repairing newer or cutting-edge electronics. In some cases, it may be easier to purchase a new computer, second-hand computer and replace only the parts from the existing machine.

Keep Your Work Area Clean, Clean As You Go

We clean up as we go, there were glass fragments before, during and after this process. Handle with caution and care. Glass and debris (dirt, hair, fuzz etc.) must be cleaned up as you go. The goal is to leave it better than the you found it! Ditto on Teardown. The same goes for the battery, battery cable, main screw, hinges, LCD cables, display, display hinge covers, cables (springs), antenna cables and assembly, LCD, remove antennae, main hinge screws, and remove LCD. First, perform an LCD check to ensure the new LCD works.

Disassemble Upper Cables
Board Cables

Board Cable(s)

Unplug Cable

Disconnect Board Cable(s)

Unplug Cable

Unplug Connectors

Unplug Cable

Disconnect all Cable(s)

Board Cable

Board Cable

Starting here with the upper disassembled, we have the main logic board, power brackets, cable brackets. We need to disconnect the trackpad, speakers, logic board flex screws and cables. This is where we can begin the touch bar assembly replacement. Everything is bundled up, with covers, varying screws, and electronics tape. It is important to have your replacement ready once you have removed the main board, speakers, and trackpad. This is where things get tricky!

Continue Disassembly & Board
LCD Removed

LCD Removed

Board Screws

Board Screw(s)

Continue Disassembly

Continue Disassembly

Board Screw

Motherboard Screw(s)

Board Cables

Board Cables

Board Screw

Additional Screw(s)

Board Screw

Clean Motherboard Space

Brush Debris

Brush Debris

It’s handy to have your tool kit out. If not, give Amazon a quick call or pull up iFixit and scroll. You’re going to need adhesive remover, gloves, and glasses you know, the essentials when working with glass, and chemicals on small electronics.

We will start with the flat pry bar on the front (assuming all touch bar parts have been dismantled or ‘torn down’). We will slowly pry and spray our adhesive remover down behind the touch bar glass and the metal upper. It’s more fun if you have more adhesive remover than what we had during the refurb process. Not much left after the mobile device teardowns a few months back.

Touchbar
Touch Assembly

Touch Assembly

Touch Cable

Touch Cable(s)

Touch Cable

Touchbar Cable(s)

Unfold Flex Cable

Unfold Flex Cable(s)

Glue Removal

Glue Remova

Glue Release

Glue Release

Touch Removed<

Touch Removed

ReAttach Touch Cables

Attach Touch Cable(s)

Unfold Flex Cable

Unfold Flex Cable(s)

Ok, so first we remove the glue, glass, and finally the touch bar on the front by accessing it through the upper back. Then, it’s a simple process of replacing the touch bar. We need to be careful to remove the backing that will adhere the M1 Touchbar to the upper case, flex cable in hand through the upper or touch bar bracket and reassemble the touch bar cables and housing.

Throughout the rebuild process, we kept the screen protector film on to protect the screen. Below, you can find a number of images documenting each step of the process. Proceed with caution!

Touchbar Verification
Remove Cover

Remove Cover

Remove Cover

Cover Removed

Power On

Power On

Touch Bar Test

Touch bar Test

Log in

Log In

Unfold Flex Cable

OS Testing

Wrapping up, the M1 Touchbar has been installed, and all parts have been reassembled. Now let’s cover the conclusion. Once the machine is back together, a quick test is needed. We run the machine services mode, working with the drive, and checking what’s on it.

We wipe the main drive, rename it, rebuild it and reinstall it. Some quick terminal snippets and a reboot later, the process is complete. Once reinstalled, we remove any all all software (bloat) that we can, and we are off to the races. This laptop will be used at some point to run ham radio software, so I am hoping to install Linux on the main drive and use it as I have done with my previous machines. Well, that concludes the refurbish process/effort. If you have any questions, feel free to send me an email, Cheers.

Series Complete, Review Previous Posts

Lastly, good luck with your own Self Service Repair, and the same goes for the Parts catalog – https://selfservicerepair.com/en-US/home. The build continues on the M1, so be sure to check out the subsequent articles (5 in total)  M1 Refurb, Visual Inspection and TeardownM1 Touchbar, and Screen & Keys. Enjoy!  A friendly reminder,  It’s vital in my opinion to use OEM parts. IMO (in my opinion), if you can’t, consider second -hand options via Amazon or eBay. Additionally, the parts list is very helpful for those familiar with the process. If you’re not, don’t hesitate to reach out if you’re in a pinch. I’m happy to help or help guide you to the right support method or service.

M1 Screen & Keys

We Teardown And Rebuild An Apple M1 MBP

M1 Screen and Keys

M1 Teardown – Screen & Keys

M1 Arrow Key, LCD

LCD and keys, can be tedious, be careful and be aware of the process; ‘teardown’ process.

Visual Inspection, Keys

Starting with the easiest part of the refurbishment process – what is the easiest part of the build? The keys. Keys, Screen/LCD and then the touch bar. Please note, the refurbishment process required two teardowns, so to speak. First, let’s verify the working parts and inspect the touch bar on it’s own. The process, you could say, is a one-step job. However, I did this job in two parts for the sake of my own sanity.

The key here, is this: I know that if I could get the screen working, we would be in good shape. Cost aside, I was trying to avoid purchasing the M1 upper case which holds all parts associated with the computer. So, in other words, it’s a no-brainer,  keys on the keyboard, LCD screen, then touch bar.

Teardown
Screws and Bottom Case

Screws and Bottom Case

Apply Suction

Apply Suction

Visual Inspection

Visual Inspection

Battery Cable

Battery Cable

Remove Cable

Remove Cable

Board Screw

Board Screw

A Closer Look

A Closer Look

Screw Removed

Screw Removed

Hinge Covers

Hinge Covers

Cover Screws

Cover Screws

Left Main Hinge

Left Main Hinge

Right Main Hinge

Right Main Hinge

Internal Repair, Replace LCD

Start the teardown bell! We’ve completed our inspection and are beginning with the easiest of the three R/R (remove and replace) parts in this teardown. Keys can sometimes be tricky, so if you are familiar with them, please refer to the video below. If keys are a confusing concept to you, just focus on the left arrow key. There are several online resources available for reference, with Snazzy providing a helpful video walkthrough of the process. We breeze through the key change with ease.

For more detailed information, you can also  check out @SnazzyLabs, quick video on how to replace keys. It’s important to note – that there may be some differences between models, especially the M1. That’s why the video is so helpful! The key takeaway is that quick snap keys convenient but can tricky if you are not familiar with how scissor clips work. I recommend purchasing new keys (up, down, left and right) – make sure to get the ‘left arrow’ key) for a simple slide an click installation process. It’s as easy as pie.

Moving On To The Display

So, the cracked screen… We used a clamp tool and suction cups to get under the bottom case. A recommendation: iFixit has a variety of tools and parts for fixing things. We’ll talk more about them later, but we have bought a few items for them. You will also need adhesive remover, can you guess where we got ours? This is not a paid advertisement, but they have some great tools if you don’t have anything in your electric/technical toolbox.

We start by removing the bottom case when replacing the screen. Beginning with the batter cable for the M1 Screen & Key’s fix, it’s important to be carful as cables and parts are delicate and can easily break. So, remove the cable cover, battery cable, and screws. The most nerve-wracking part is dealing with the different sizes of screws, types of drivers, and prying tools required for the job (TORX, pryer(s), spudgers, tweezers etc). Once the battery cables and screws are removed, we can unscrew the hinge covers and move onto the antennas. It can be challenging to see the screws on the antennas, so good luck!

Teardown Upper, Goal LCD Removal
Locate Antennae Bay

Locate Antennae Bay

Remove Cables

Remove Cable(s)

Remove Cables

Remove Cable(s)

Antennae Screw(s)

Antennae Screw(s)

Antennae Screw(s)

Remove Screw(s)

Antennae Screw(s)

Antennae Screw(s)

LCD Removal and Replace

The antenna will need additional cables, screws and bars leading down to the antenna and LCD springs. After installing those items, we will once again remove the antenna wire cover and detach the wires. It is important to exercise caution and be mindful of leaving the piece in better condition than when we found it. When removing covers, do so gently to keep glued area clean and free of debris (we had to address some glass bits). 

Teardown Continues With the Antennae and Cables
Prep Antennae

Prep Antennae

Antennae Screws

Antennae Screw(s)

Antennae Cables

Remove Cable Connectors

Antennae Cables

Antennae Cable(s) Removed

Hinge(s)

Hinge(s)

Antennae Cleared

Antennae Cleared

Once, the antenna bar is clear, the LCD hinge screws will need to be removed, along with the springs and mounting hardware. Voila, the LCD has been detached.

Antennae, Hinges and Test LCD
Remove Display

Remove Display

LCD Hinges

LCD Hinges

Reattach LCD

Reattach LCD

M1 Screen & Keys Wrap Up

This concludes the M1 Screen & Keys section of the refurbishment process. As mentioned earlier, we will now proceed to the touch bar. We went back, replaced all screws and cables to confirm that the LCD swap and key are working as expected, and we found that the touch bar was not working. We verified all parts (sans the touch bar) continued with wiping and cleaning in the following post. If you missed the first three articles, you can find those here: 1. Self Repair, 2. Refurb, and 3. Visual Inspection, Teardown. Cheers.

M1 Inspection And Teardown

Work To Identify Norms, Baseline Tests

M1 Screen, Touch bar and Keys

M1 Inspection – Screen, Touch bar & Keys

M1 Inspection Report – Visual Inspection and Teardown

Time will be relevant here, take your time, clean up as you go; we will be replacing several items, the screen, touch bar and keys on the M1 MBP.

Inspection, Condition

First, let’s start with the inspection. Let’s call it the M1 Visual Inspection & Teardown. Shall we begin? We will start with the physical inspection, then move into the software inspection, computational tests and gather the relevant information to start the refurbishment. So, what is the physical damage? Does this damage impact the computers ability to function or compute? In turn, we want to know where the damage is and how it might impact the machine’s performance, computing power, UI (User Interface) etc…

Visual Hardware Inspection
Case Corners

Left Bottom Case Corner

Case Corners

Corner Right

Case Corners

Side Case Blemishing

Screen Issues

Screen Issues

Touch Issues

Touch Issues

Keys

Keys

Keys & Touch

Keys & Touch

Sand, Glass Debris

Sand, Glass Debris

Secondly, we can observe screen issues, such as LCD problems where the screen is affected by broken glass or screen distortion. Upon close examination, scratches and broken/cracked glass can be seen in the black sublayer of the LCD screen. At the bottom of the display, near the hinge, and just about the touch bar. There may have been some debris or object inside this screen area when the computer was closed by the user. At least, that is my hunch.

Now, as for the case, the metal case appears worn but not excessively so. All corners have some damage, scratches, etc., but overall it seems okay (the case did it’s job). There is nothing that raises a red flag indicating damage that could cause internal or computing issues.

Interfaces: LCD, Trackpad and Keyboard

Thirdly, in the next step of the M1 Visual Inspection & Teardown article, let’s inspect the keyboard. The directional arrow is missing and the touch bar is no longer illuminating… I wonder if the key came off and damaged the screen some how? Not likely, but something appears to have been closed in the laptop where the touch bar and screen would meet upon closing the laptop. Another takeaway is that the machine may need an overhaul, or a new upper (upper case, which can be extremely expensive as it will include all parts).

Finally, parting out, or fixing each piece, individually is not recommended. Now a disclaimer – this is my own machine. Typically ,items under warranty will be processed through Apple via Apple Care. Utilize Apple Care or Apple+ where you can, assuming you’ve purchased the warranty/insurance. If not, things can get expensive. There are resources out there as you can imagine. Hopefully posts like this and those following help to provide some guidance in dire straits.

Ok, now that we got that out, let’s get to the first fix; this left arrow key and LCD screen. Quickly, see other articles linked to this story: Self Repair, Refurb, Screen & Keys and Touchbar

M1 Refurb

Let’s Refresh This Apple M1 MBP

M1 Screen and Keys

Refurb Update – Keys, Touchbar and Screen – Images being prepped

M1 Mid 2020 Refurb process – Keys, Touchbar and Screen

Not recommended, but if you’re in a pinch, there is a way to continue with the M1 Refurb without purchasing a new M1 upper and/or M1 full assembly. A reminder, I should mention the Apple Self Repair help and  Parts/Catalog. All links are handy to have in a pinch.

Blocker and Resolution

An all in one post was supposed to be the next article in this series.  However, it will be split into two separated articles as continuation of the M1 Refurb process. One will focus on the screen and keys, while the other will cover the touch bar repair. Since the touch bar repair is quite invasive, it makes more sense to  address the screen and keys separately and then tackle the touch bar in another post. The will result in a lengthy post, as you can imagine.

Where are the future posts, today? Funny you asked, as I’ve got most, if not all 25 plus images ‘in-process’ – size, color, lighting etc. For all intents and purposes, the story line is complete. The pre-post work is also complete at this point. I think there were around 50 steps to remove, replace, and install the touch bar, so we will make it as streamlined as we can. More to come, check back in a few days, as we should have the post ready to go.

Jump Ahead

Okay, let’s fast forward, now that the series has come to it’s conclusion. With that we got that out of the way, you can continue the journey from start to finish here with some helpful links: 1. Self Repair, 2. Visual Inspection & Teardown, 3. Screen & Keys and 4. Touchbar.

M1 Self Service Repair

Repair, and Fix Tech For Yourselves

Apple Self Services Help

M1 Self Service Repair – Apple Documentation

M1 Repair – Self Repair Documentation, Websites etc

Those of you who are not certified, no worries.  We use the links below to fix various Apple products, iPhones, iPads, MBP’s (Macbook Pro’s) and this M1 Self Service Repair as noted.

No longer certified? It’s a breeze!  Never certified, there are challenges, but this article will help. Two very important links, Self Service Repair – https://support.apple.com/self-service-repair and Parts. So, this article will focus more on the later, when your warranty has expired. Remember, there are options, tried and true, Apple’s Self Service Repair options.

Apple Self Service Repair Options

First, keep in mind, there are always options. We’ve got warranty, approved services providers, and self repair options. Second hand as well, don’t forgot others have gone through similar experiences; a loss of a drive, broken/cracked screen and worse, failed motherboard.

Bare in mind there are options available, specific for the M1 build, or article title, M1 Self Service Repair, even when Apple Care+ warranty has expired. Learn to fix Apple tech yourself. Be sure to do your research,  of course. Perhaps, you might want to start here… I’ll let Apple explain the ‘other repair options’ independent repair providers and self service repair. Avenues become limited as the warranty expires or those who can perform the fix on the go.

Next, let’s assume our options are limited for the M1 MBP… the Apple Self Service Repair (resource website) will help with your repair; this assumes you know what you’re doing. Parts can be purchased as well, … also, there is chat support available, where it makes sense. Do your due diligence. Can’t stress this enough, especially those who are just getting into electronics as a hobby, or starting those who can fix friends and family electronics.

Series Continues

Lastly, good luck with your own Self Service Repair, same for the Parts catalog.  The build continues on the M1, check out the subsequent articles (5 in total) M1 Refurb, Visual Inspection and TeardownM1 Touch bar, and Screen & Keys. Enjoy! Friendly reminder,  It’s vital to use OEM parts IMO (in my opinion), if you can, second hand via Amazon or eBay. Moreover, the parts list is very helpful for those familiar with the process. If not, don’t be afraid to reach out if you’re in a pinch. Happy to help or help guide you to the right support method/service.

Quick Fix – Pool

A Quick Fix Including Pool Filtration

Filter Top

Solve Water Pressure (Spikes), A Clean Filter and Pump/Pump Filter

Inspect the equipment

On an ongoing basis, it is important to keep the pool filter clean. Additionally, it is crucial to address any leaks and replace parts as needed throughout the lifespan of the pool. Monitoring the filter housing gauge can be helpful in the process. To begin this maintenance task, perform a visual and physical. inspection of the Pentair system, which includes the filter, pressure gauge, and blow-off valve. Be vigilant for any sudden spikes in pressure, as well as any obstacles that may impede proper water flow.

Filter Housing, Filter Change, New Gauge and Blower
Filter Top Showing Crack

Housing Crack

Filter Change

Filter Change

Clean Filter Insert

Clean Filter Insert

Inspect Filter Bottom

Inspect Filter Bottom

Filter Housing, Pump – Water Cycle Ecosystem

Along with the filter gauge, proper filter cleaning is necessary. Keeping the pool clean and free of debris is one thing, but keeping the debris and ‘gunk’ out of the system is another. Let’s focus on the main drain(s), pump filter, filter, filter housing and the return.

Chemicals aside, simple maintenance is key. Keeping the main drain clear, the pump filter and the filter cleaned and free of debris is important (simple, right?). Not too often, but when it does, focus on the filter housing gauge. Pressure can build when the filter is not allowing the recommended ‘flow’ back to the pool via the return. The blow off valve, assuming a generic housing, will help eliminate pressure when needing to power down the pump unit to clean the pump filter and clean, remove or replace the filter.

New Parts
Clean Filter Housing

Clean Filter Housing

Place Filter

Place Filter

Infilter Insert

Infilter Insert

New Filter Top

New Filter Top

Filter Housing Issue

Let’s skip ahead to the filter housing issue in our quick fix – pool article. First, here is a generic video showing the process of turning off the pool, removing the filter housing top and gaining access to the filter. Unfortunately, the filter housing top deteriorated due to sun exposure, water, contaminants. Luckily, it didn’t turn into a lost top or a comical scenario where the filter top ends up in a neighbors yard.

After a brief conversation with the pool professionals, it became clear that this is a common point of failure. It can be temporarily patched with epoxy but this is not recommended  for this application. In a pinch, do what you can to maintain it, but most of the time, it’s best to get a new top. We will also replace the gauges (these are not due for another day or two, as we have chosen to purchase replacements online).

Going Back to the filter and solving problems along the way will help you better maintain the equipment you have. This has been our approach to working on electronics and technology for our 20 years. Once you’ve learned a your lesson, you typically won’t be to keep notes on your pool filter and make sure to buy the correct filter for your system. Prices will vary as you all know.

Physical and Visual Inspection

Check the filter core, gauges, blow off valve, filter screen (if applicable), and filter. Something is clogging up our filter, possibly algaecide or leftover water coloring solution. It is washable, but for the sake of time, it’s best to replace the filter. This task is not brain surgery, but it must  be done correctly. Inspect all parts, clean what you can, and replace the items that are beyond cleaning. Filters and parts deteriorate over time.

While you’re cleaning out the pool, filters and whatever else might be causing problems in and around the pool. Check out our series on pool robots, maintenance, care and more importantly, Maytronic Dolphin robot repairs! Don’t miss out on this series, whether you have a robot, looking to invest into one or have a bot out of order or a Dolphin Down in desperate need of assistance… More content on the way! 

In summary, these quick fix – pool tips can be used  to inspect all components of the pool pump. Conduct a visual inspection, clean the baskets, filter, filter core, filter housing bottom, and check the water. Balance the water with chemicals as needed, then deploy the pool robot to start the cleaning process.

Like the quick fix format? Check out other quick fix content here such as this disposal problems fix. Like the learn to descale your coffee equipment – pots and machines, fix a toilet float clean. Like this quick pool filter housing and filter fix, try a cell phone charging hack… Check them out!

Dolphin Nautilus

Maytronics Dolphin Nautilus CC Plus

Dolphin Nautilus Pool Robot

Pool Robots by Maytronics

Dolphin Nautilus CC

The Dolphin Nautilus CC pool vacuum, made by Maytronics Dolphin, is designed to remove debris, brush, vacuum, and maintain pool clarity.

Everyday, the Dolphin Nautilus activates, moves around the pool, cleans, and maintains buoyancy upon completion. It comes with a price tag, so choose wisely! We received a recommendation from our pool guy, which was great advice – try the Dolphin Nautilus robot vacuum. The goal is to reduce water evaporation, maintain water and chemical balance, minimize chemical corrections and keep the system clean.

Drone Accessories
Nautilus Back

Nautilus Back

Nautilus Cleaning

Nautilus Cleaning

Clean Filters

Clean Filters

Nautilus Cart

Nautilus Cart

Now, lawn equipment can spread dirt, grass clipping, environmental debris, pet fur, and screens with holes. Various types of debris can become spoilers when found in the pool. I assume that most, if not all, of this debris is kicked up by mowers and blowers as they are the main vehicles for debris getting into the pool. For us, sand from the brick pad seems to wreak havoc on our pools ‘clarity’. So, the sand, bugs and debris from lawn equipment…

More Maytronics Product Information

The Nautilus is a great product that is not terribly expensive when compared to other devices in the same space. We chose this specific product because it lacks excessive technology. We simply wanted a low-maintenance clean that could operate in the water, clean effectively, run various cleaning cycles and be easily stored  on a cart when not in use. The cart allows for easy storage or movement, especially for pool usage.  It can simply move the robot away when swimmings are in  or around the pool. This means swimmers can splash around, stir up the water and not worry about damaging the robot. The universal cart works wonders, although it may be pricey for some. It makes tasks like bending down, lifting, and storing the robot a breeze.

Cost, cleaning time. The machine is easy to clean. Power down the machine, pull up the robot, open two doors, pull out the filters, unlock the filters with four clicks, and start the wash. Cleaning and maintaining the screens is much easier when considering the cost and cleaning time of the entire pool compared to a quick rinse under the faucet to remove debris. Moving back to the robot, snap the filters into the housing, replace them on the machine, submerge the robot, and power it on…

Quickly, I wanted to share some other Maytronics Dolphin content, newer content since the original Nautilus article  in reverse order, so the fix is first (up), issue second(down): Dolphin On and  Dolphin Down.

Moving on, no app for us, once again we opted for the Dolphin Nautilus robot in its manual version (corded, non-wifi enabled) to keep costs down. It suits us well since our pool remains uncovered year-round; the robot makes its way around the pool once or twice a day, providing low-maintenance, no-frills pool cleaning. Personally, I would prefer to cover the pool at night to  retain heat and reduce water evaporation. But for now, we’re happy with our choice. This recommendation came from our pool service, not a paid advertisement, so a big thank you to them!

Quick Tip – Float

Stop Running Water

Switch out the float and the flap

Pesky Toilet, Fix Running Water Issue

Toilet Running? Quick Tip – Check the Float, Stop the Water Flow Correctly.

Quick Tip: Is your toilet leaking or running? Start by checking for a few common issues. Is the water continuously filling the toilet? This could indicate a water shutoff problem. Is the flap broken, deteriorating, or blocked by debris like a tank cleaner puck or tablet?

Next Steps

Here are two simple steps to fix the problem we are trying to solve in this quick tip article regarding floats and flaps. First, check the flap. Is it the correct size and in good condition? If not, replace it. Adjust the flap sinker and chain as needed. Second, check the float. Make sure it is floating properly to shut off the water once the tank reaches the set float height. Fixing these issues can help stop your toilet from leaking or running.

Toilet Inspection, Repair
Visual Inspection

Visual Inspection

Unscrew Water Hose

Unscrew Water Hose

Tank Screw

Tank Screw

Replace Flap

Replace Flap

Water Pipe

Water Pipe

Screw Water Hose

Screw Water Hose

When it comes to toilet repair, there are few things you need to check, such as water height and water pressure. For a quick fix, start by turning off the water, draining the tank, vacuuming out any remaining water (having a bucket nearby can be helpful in tight spaces). Let’s loosen the plastic nut(which is a common material these days) that connects the tank to the water spout. Do the same  for the float nut, which is the other connection point under the tank for modern toilets.

Once the hose and float have been removed, along with the float assembly and hose connecting the ‘out flow’ pipe, which may be another potential leak point, replace what was removed with new materials and turn the water back on. And just like that, your toilet is fixed. It may not be a technical task, but everyone has a toilet, and appliances and fixtures can break down from time to time. Keep this handy tip in mind for the next time.

Like the quick fix format? Check out other quick fix content here such as this disposal problems fix. Like the learn to descale your coffee equipment – pots and machines. Much like this fix a toilet float article… clean and fixpool filter housing and filter problem or try a cell phone charging hack… Check them out!

Rebuild Part 5

Ender Series TPU Upgrade Part 5 – Rebuild And Upgrade

Part 5 Inputs/Outputs

Sonic Pad Adjustments, Assembly

Labwork – Upgrades, Rebuild Part 5

Finally, a moment to enjoy and success is here. Everyone has been eagerly anticipating a full print test of the Ender 3 Max Neo, Sonic Pad, and Creality TPU. The full print was successful without the need for a dreaded motherboard upgrade. 

No motherboard upgrade is needed at this time! We just need more time to print and tweak, print and tweak. Success! A fresh print, an end-to-end cube test print… just look at the ironing, ‘it’s alive, it’s alive’. It may seem like a small win, but it is a win nonetheless. The config/console appears to be correct, which is no surprise, I’m looking into a few more tweaks in the end.

Upgrade Continues

Let’s highlight a few things before we dive into the rebuild, part 5. An update was overdue, especially this one celebrating the print test win. Check. After a very early start this morning (the pictures are included below) we’ve got the Ender 3 Max Neo producing TPU test prints with minimal blips, blurbs, zits, stringing etc. All good things.

The key takeaway,  is that delta refers to extrusion setting, which controls the direct drive pressure on the filament. s… These settings can be found in the advanced settings under extrusion settings. A reminder for those using the Creality Sonic Pad interface: if you are using the onboard interface, you will need to look for something called  “steps” or a way to control the stepper. In layman’s terms, this refers to the ‘pressure in steps’ needed to  push filament through the extruder.

In this rebuild, rebuild part 5, we highlights the success of the extrusion win, along with making other minor tweaks such as adjusting the heat at the tip, improving bed adhesion, and adjusting speed to match the Sprite Extrusion settings. We found that print temps between 220-240 C, depending on the filament type – Duramic or Creality TPU. Additionally, we increased the flow rate by an additional 25%, bringing it to 125%, and reduced the speed by 25% approximately 75%. Therefore, the settings are as follows: 220C – 240C Nozzle – 75C Bed – 75% Speed – 125% Flow Rate – Sprite Extrusion Settings Enabled.

Currently, some additional adjustments are being made to the movement settings into rebuild Part 5. The Z height appears to require some minor adjustments in specific areas, although the reason for this is unclear. It could be related to the differences between the initial layers and the subsequent layers. 3D printers enable users to control various settings throughout three stages of the printing process: the beginning, middle and end.

3D Printer Upgrade Inspiration
Evening Print

Evening Print

Halot Reflection

Halot Reflection

Sonic Pad

Sonic Pad

Adjustments

Adjustments

Spider Hot End

Spider Hot End

First Globule

First Globule

Test Cube

Test Cube

Failed Test Print

Failed Test Cube

One other thing to mention, which I failed to include in my previous post, Part 4 is that bed adhesion continues to be an issue. It could be the dark horse  among the issues at play.  A quick fix for bed adhesion is using alcohol and paper towels to keep the adhesion plate clear and clean! Make sure to throughly clean the plate by scrubbing away any oil residue, filament, blips, dust, stringing, dog hair (thanks, Zeus), and any other debris that might accumulate on the build plate in a typical office environment.

I don’t recall if keeping the plate clean actually made a difference when it comes to cleaning the bed, but we have tried a few different methods. We experimented with a clean bed, a taped bed (using Blue Painters Taps), and a sprayed/glue stick adhesive bed. All in an effort to find an alternative solution for prints shifting on the bed surface.  We will also be posting some build plate test and will be trying spray adhesives next. Could that be the answer?

More Adjustments

A few adjustments with the Hex (Allen) keys, resetting the rail wheels, and we’ve successfully completed Part 5. Looking back, I’m not sure if the build plate really needed to be cleaned between PLA prints. If you look closely a the picture, you’ll see that the Creality Sonic Pad is now operational as planned. Personally, I don’t think I would have kept the generic screen that originally came with the machine. The Wifi, Cloud Printing/Slicing, direct printing, and customizable settings are all key reasons to stick with the Sonic Pad.

One item to note, is that we have not been able to get the Wifi Box 2.0 to work in the upgraded sandbox. Furthermore, for the time being, we will set aside the Wifi Box 2.0 until we can determine the optimal print settings and ensure consistent adhesion. Despite this, we are staying positive and moving forward with larger format prints, including  some TinkerCad projects for a true test. Additionally, it is worth mentioning that we have relocated the printer from the workbench. The tabletop did not provide the necessary stability due to the incessant shaking, vibration, and back-and-forth motions of the printer assembly.

Overall, today is a win after having the printer on the bench for the past few weeks. Check out the previous series articles – Part 1 Teardown,  Part 2, Part 3 and Part 4. We are on an upswing, with new parts, new break-fix settings, slicing settings and a new location for the 3D printer to operate. For those interested in what’s coming next, I have a backlog of TPU Max Neo parts, including a new digital spool, some technology ‘smartphone covers’, and a unique locking mechanism for a cooler. More details on that later.

Rebuild Part 4

Ender Series TPU Upgrade Part 4 Continues

Part 4 Internals

 Failed Prints, eSteps/Stepper, Filaments and More

Lab Work – Rebuild Part 4

Fine tuning, break-fix, and reprints. Yes, break-fix steps continue, including fine tuning/recalibration, config adjustments, steppers, test prints and more. Largely, considered a failure so far…

Here in Rebuild Part 4, we cover the failures, not to worry! We will get this fixed with upgrades and all. A couple of cycles now, including – what I will call the ‘teardown-and-rebuild’ cycle – removal of most external upgrades such as the Creality Sonic Pad, Wifi Box 2.0, direct drive extruder, tubes and hot end…

The key is to isolate issues with the teardown and rebuild cycle, building up with neutral or known issues. Please note, the Sonic Pad interface, under the ‘advanced settings’, extrusion settings… the default extrusion type must be changed/modified to include the ‘sprite extruder’, this accounts for the upgrades and the most significant step forward.

Moving on from the Sonic Pad

Please note, there are four default settings – default, sprite, MK8 and manual or custom. Although we quickly tested each extrusion type, here, we focused in on the sprite extruder settings. It is also important to mention that we have not had a successful TPU print. The TPU prints have been bad to say the least, as you will see in the test photos, ranging from bad to worse in some cases.

In addition to misprints, under-printing has been a major issue. This is due to extrusion steps as mentioned above. Please check the Sonic Pad Settings – Advanced Settings – Custom Extrusion Settings – Spite Extrusion vs Onboard Interface ramping up eSteps ~ to around 500mm. Before we proceed, we have have experienced globules (large drops of melted TPU, similar in shape and size to the end of a q-tip) misprints, gummed up nozzles and so on.

Wifi Box and Motherboard

Beyond this point, I have considered a board swap, which will also be something to consider until the print issues can be ironed out. Yes, that would mean an effort in futility, involving a full swap which would be considered moot. For those who might not understand, this would leave only the base hardware/structure unchanged, changing out all components; which is not the goal. If a required motherboard change is confirmed – specifically Creality motherboard v 4.2.7 specifically, a new printer specifically used for TPU might be the answer. Not ideal, but necessary.

Below, you will find new images that have been posted, thought it would help to highlight the removal of the fans, changing out the heating element and sensor and Sonic Pad configs. Furthermore, I feel we are close to a successful print. Before I forget, the PLA prints run with little error, printing test cubes with minor blips or over printing… Beware, slicer/printer controllers do vary, Utlimaker Cura, Creality Slicers etc have varying results, some with no result at all as the print is shown outside the consoles ‘known print’ area. More on that later, we can share a few posts on slicer successes (failures in our case).

Rebuild Activities

Next, let’s cover some of the activities taking place during the rebuild:

  • Hot End
  • Assembly
  • Backplate
  • Sprite Extruder
  • Filament Tube
  • Filaments
  • Bed level, Adhesion Spray Glue and Blue Tape
  • Software – firmware and slicers (Creality Cloud, Creality Slicer, Ultimaker Cura)
  • Wifi Box, MicroSD Cards, Sonic Pad, Onboard Interface
  • OS – MacOS/Linux
  • Lot’s of cleaning, grab yourself a brass brush
  • E-stepper
  • Nozzles
  • Temperatures – hot end, bed
  • Homing Issues
  • Extrusion Settings
  • Homing Issues

Rebuild Part 4 continues with the addition of more nozzles, needles, upgraded plate screws, leveling, Capricorn tube, and the Spider 2.0/3.0 Pro hot end… motherboard? We will soon be facing a full swap! Ugh. While it may seem like a lot of work, it is all part of 3D printing. Don’t let that discourage you. The challenge, whether it’s a build problem or a technical issue, is what I enjoy the most. I thrive on finding solutions and working through those challenges, enven if it means testing and failing multiple times. I will share a video at some point, but for now, pictures and commentary will have to suffice.

New Sprite Extruder, Test Prints, and Sonic Pad Failure
First TPU

First TPU

Sonic Pad Failure

Sonic Pad Failure

Sprite Extruder Assembled

Sprite Extruder Assembled

Unplug Fans

Unplug Fans

Hot End, Sprite Extruder

Moving forward, I would like to address some items on the pending list. I believe there may be an issue with the heating element, thermistor, and nozzle. This could be causing problems such as incorrect temps and filament build-up on these components, leading to issues with filament adhesion to build surface. I have read that 424.9 degrees C temp, but we still need to determine the appropriate temp for our specific build. The hot-end and thermistor may be causing these issues, so we ned to investigate and eliminate them as potential factors. Additionally, we should keep some needles on hand to clear the filament path in the direct-drive assembly, as the accumulation of burnt filament can exacerbate the situation. This will be a priority for us to address this week.

New Sprite Extruder Assembly
Hot End Wiring

Hot End Wiring

Install Hot End

Install Hot End

Heat Sensor

Heat Sensor

Assembly

Assembly

Unboxing

Unboxing

Reassemble

Reassemble

New Hot End

New Hot End

We are skipping the motherboard for now in Rebuild Part 4 because they are not needed at this time. As mentioned before, the motherboard will be part of the full swap. Instead, we are focusing on the new sprite extruder and direct drive motor upgrades that were purchased at the beginning of this build. It’s worth nothing that there are extruders that do not require upgrades, specifically for the 4.2.7 motherboard. Fortunately, this upgrade will include the necessary 4.2.7 motherboard, which is not required for this build.

Following the items mentioned above, the next steps involve installing new screws, metal tension knobs, cushions, tubing and hot end. Ideally, the goal is to achieve a level and consistent bed/build plate temp, a clean adhesion plate, consistent hot end temp to reduce ‘leaking’ and hot end ‘heat creep”,  to use quality filament. By addressing these hardware issues, we hope to minimize or eliminate any problems. Assuming the hardware and upgrade components work, the final challenge will be the software adjustments.

Initial TPU Test Prints

TPU appears to be more challenging when testing and encountering failures, especially when failing more frequently than anticipated. However, I managed to successfully print a clean model by swapping filaments and using the old Bowden drive and PLA settings. This step back was necessary to ensure that the base product still prints as intended.

Honestly, the speed-to-market issue comes into play here (assuming you are looking to print commercially or in some professional fashion), as we are lacking the ability to print PLA at a low cost per print and TPU. Join us as we work to find a solution. The problem will be solved shortly, with more to come. 

Part of this process is maintaining a positive outlook, even when balls of filament build up on the hot end and nozzle for the 40th test. I know we are close, but as we eliminate or mitigate more pieces and parts, the solution will emerge. I might just need a few more mins to find the right combination of parts and software.

TPU Comments

Frankly speaking, this post, Rebuild Part 4 – TPU has been quite a ride. TPU isn’t too difficult to work with on newer machines, but we need to find a solution for the Ender platform that is budget-friendly for some or maybe not when compared to other very expensive printers that offer out-of-the-box solutions for various fulfillment needs. I will say this,  for those seeking an easy, out of the box 3D printer (crickets, crickets), time and budget will be major factors; it could if not the defining factor; make or break the decision. 

Finally, we will wrap up the series in part 5, let’s check out Part 5 – Rebuild – Rebuild, Sonic Pad Adjustments and assembly. Check out the new post content, see more, read previous articles in the series, Rebuild – Start, Rebuild – Progress, and Rebuild 3. 

Rebuild Continues Part 3

Learn more about the Ender 3 Max Neo Rebuild: Part 3

Ender Series TPU Upgrade Part 3

Ender - Middle

Final Assembly, Boot, Config and Print

Lab Work – Rebuild Part 3

I encountered a bit of a snag, but I am rebuilding and continuing with the Ender TPU Upgrade rebuild continues in part 3 of the series. As the rebuild coninues part 3 rolls out, we are seeing the challenges now. For the time being, please refer to the updates above/below for part 3 updates. We will be covering more of the  rebuild process, including the x/y axis bands, plate, direct drive issues, boot/reboot procedures, and reinstalling printer drivers. Additionally, we will discuss slicers, nozzles, extruder/heating element, and the latest issue, the onboard/external interface.

Breaking Through, Troubleshooting activities

As noted in the previous build, prior to Rebuild Continues Part 3… found in Part 2 of the series, we are likely around 80%-90% complete at this point. We will refer to this rebuild as Part 3. We have encountered some filament burn and melt down, as well as blockers that we will address in Part 4. Nonetheless, Part 2 was successful, and now Part 3 is also going well, with all parts functioning as expected and the boards booting as they should. The new drive and extruder are working in tandem as intended. The ‘issue, as previously mentioned, lies between the Creality Sonic Pad, printer board and connecting software. Images will be included to illustrate the challenges faced during the rebuild, including manual updates made on the printer screen, main board, and the area where we are  currently stuck with the Sonic Pad. Two notable errors are the Klippy software and Sonic Pad physical connection failure, as well was filament recognition. 

Rebuild
Print Video

Print Video

Tension Bands

Tension Bands

Secure Bands

Secure Bands

LCD SD Card

LCD SD Card

Clean Build Plate

Clean Build Plate

Install Firmware

Install Firmware

Power On

Power On

E Stepper

E Stepper

Connection Error

Connection Error

Firmware Selection

Firmware Selection

Extruder

Extruder

Hot End

Hot End

Out next steps will involve installing/rebuilding Klippy, testing, retesting print config files, reattaching the Sonic Pad, replacing extruder tubes, nozzles, adjusting e-Steps, home position and more, while also adding the Wifi Box 2.0. Once all of these tasks are completed and throughly vetted and tested, we will create a brief update of the build and active prints to mark these items of the rebuild list. Next steps – TPU SettingsRebuild Step 4, Rebuild Step 5 and wrap up.

Got to love technology (or not), and office ‘helpers’ Zeus thought he would take a little snooze while the troubleshooting session continued throughout the day and night. The same can be said for discovery and testing, there’s no time like the present. Some folks call it the ‘grind’… I’ll leave that there for you to imagine. Is it painstakingly difficult? No. Time always plays a role, especially when speed-to-market is crucial. You have to be willing to work with what you have… Part 4 will be coming shortly, where we will cover fine tuning, steps, extrusion, adhesion and whatever else pops up in the meantime.

Creality TPU

TPU Filament, Challenges and Wins

Duramic 3d - Post Upgrade

OEM TPU

Lab Work – Various Filaments

Filament types, such as Creality TPU and various brands, can be a nightmare of a problem to have. Which filament should you purchase? What works best on the 3D printer I own? What should I do when I’m just starting out?

Cut to the point: purchase and use what you can in context. However, when push comes to shove, the Ender Series, Prusa, and Makerbot all great choices for novices or beginners. Starting with an eBay ‘parts’ printer, might help cut down costs or consider a refurbished one.

Regardless of the  product make or structure, the fine-tuning the nozzles, stability of the machine, drive system, adhesion, and filament are important. Filament might be the easiest to swap out, follower by the nozzle (noting various nozzle sizes, with most default sizes being .4mm). For hobbyists, the drive mechanism, bed/build plates, etc. may also need attention. Filament might just be an easy swap with a catch.

Like most things, filament comes with it’s own issues – additional research is required, fine tuning and testing depending on the choice of 3D printer. Let’s talk shop, about filaments, retraction (more on this in a future post). Listen, if purchasing power is a problem, meaning if you have limited funds, start by buying what you can afford, especially for those starting out in the 3D printing hobby. Do what you can to make ‘it work’. Making it work means being able to test, test, and retest. It’s a process of elimination, gradually solving problems over time. Better filaments lead to better results.

Let’s have a look

There have been many times when testing, in fact, I might venture to say, problems are related to the cost of filament and the length of time it takes the user to move from the cheaper options to the final working filament. At least in my experience of finding the right filament through testing, more than not, filament testing became a costly lesson in what not to do. So, yes, a healthy dose of testing is needed, including failure.

Drone Accessories
Creality TPU

Creality TPU

TPU Weight

TPU Weight

Duramic 3D

Duramic 3D

That said, I would be remiss not to highlight the value of this article, which is to help you save money on filaments, pieces, parts, and printing costs. The key takeaway is to buy and match OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturing) filaments. For example, since I have Creality printers (3 Creality printers in total), thus, I use Creality filaments like Creality TPU (Thermoplastic Polyurethane) Filament.

Lately, we’ve been looking branch out a bit, as we’ve recently added the Prusa’s i3 MK3S+ 3D Printer kit to the mix. Again, there are many options, printers, upgrades, filaments… choose wisely.

Learn More via MatterHackers

Let’s focus on what works, finding something that works for your current printer or future printer. As a hobbyist, I have stuck to the ‘happy path’ being less adventurous and mainly using PLA’s (Polylactic Acid) and TPU’s.  MatterHackers does an excellent job of providing information on what’s available on the market, including types of filament, sizes, brands, and colors.

Dive in! Or maybe, expansion is on your mind, and you want to setup your own print farm – @ShopNation might be a great research to check out. Have options, which might be the biggest take away beyond testing or OEM/OEM filaments. Hey, as a hobbyist, saving some cash is good thing, there are thousands of upgrades on the market, same for the number of printers, filaments, parts, boards etc.

Through various testing methods, settings, set ups, printers and more, I have discovered that what matters most is what works. That is defined as success rate or success metric. Consistency, fit/finish, quality over flash and speed over quantity are key factor. For example Duramic 3D TPU is just not working in the Ender 3 Neo Max rebuild. After tearing it down, rebuilding with all updates, and getting the same result, it is clear that it is time to make a switch. 

OEM Filaments and More

The switch I’m referring to here, moving from generics to OEM, worked on the PLA side of the equation. It may be a correlation perhaps, and not causation. I believe that’s the value here. A handy lesson might be to continue testing where it makes sense. Remember, “correlation does not imply or mean causation,” via Mr. Glickman. Learn more about his work via his personal website or faculty website. Or, click here – .

If you want to learn more about filaments, do your research. Please do look into – MatterHackers, All3dp – Filament Finds and/or @ShopNation…

I’ll leave you with this, try what you can afford, what you can afford to discard. Test and work to fine-tune your printer. Words of encouragement ‘leave no product stone unturned’. The goal is to produce high quality, consistent, and clean prints.

Find something that works 80% of the time, the old 80/20 rule. PLA is difficult bear to tweak and maintain, as is TPU and the ~approximately 14 other materials including metals, carbon fiber, wood, and nylon. The applications are endless, ranging from starter to full forge, high-strength, commercial production. The focus should be on settings, adhesion, extrusion temp, nozzle temp, surface tension, and drives – pushers… And so on, testing is our motto/mantra, testing has become a constant. Key is to find  something that works well overall, so test them all. Checkin from time to time, as new posts are created daily. We will cover the Prusa tests, Creality TPU Update – Teardown, Polycarbonate and PVA (Polyvinyl Alcohol).

Have fun, cheers

Rebuild Part 2

New Backplate

Ender Series TPU – Pre-Assembly, Rebuild In Progress Part 2

Ender Part 2 Direct Drive

Assembly & Direct Drive Rebuild, 2

Lab Work – Rebuild In Progress, Part 2

A few steps forward now, we pick up with the bold on extruder assembly and assembly backplate here in part 2. So, we continue the rebuild in progress, part 2.

Focus, Removal Of Bowden Drive
Fully Assembled

Fully Assembled

Remove Housing

Remove Housing

Extruder

Extruder

Remove Fans

Remove Fans

Remove Extruder

Remove Extruder

Disassembly

Disassembly

Hot End<

Hot End

Clip Tubing

Clip Tubing

DD To Extruder

DD To Extruder

DD Tubing

DD Tubing

Motor Clips

Motor Clips

Motor Control

Motor Control

We continue with the Rebuild In Progress, Part 2, following on from the previous article in the series, Rebuild part 1. We are discarding the original backplate and incorporating new assembly hardware (correction, new back plate needed see that update here). Unfortunately, the new OEM plate was not compatible with my setup, so I will salvage the new wheels, screws, tightening washers, bolts, and spacers where possible. I quickly performed a dry-fit of all the components, including the screws, spacers, wheels brackets, probe (a black, narrow plastic piece with a probe), side fans (with yellow and blue wires), and heating element (comprised of a heater, heat sink and extruder).

For the final step, make sure to tighten the wheel screws, fan, drive belts, and extruder before installing the heating element. The order in which you do this is important, just like when removing the Bowden drive, brackets and extruder tube. We will reuse some of the old tube to guide TPU filament into the new direct drive extruder. Next, install the extruder fan (red and black wires). Now,  you can unscrew the two top wheels and install the new direct drive platform, secure it, and snap on the carriage case (note: the hot side should be on top).

Next, attach the direct drive by clipping it onto the tube provided tube, then  snip the tube after a fitting or two. Ensure, the fit is correct. Screw in the direct drive platform from the backside of the plate, which should be installed on the last step. After securing it, connect the direct drive motor to the main line by passing the frame platform where the old extruder motor was located (refer to the last couple of images) and place the harvested tube for the filament.

Easy, right? Part 3 will be coming shortly. We will cover that tomorrow. We need to replace the heating plate, power on the machine and change the step movement.

Ender Teardown

Board Drive

Ender Series TPU Upgrade, Upgrade Kickoff – Part 1

Unpack - Ender Internals

Ender Teardown, Rebuild – Start

Lab Work – Teardown Part 1

A few steps into the Ender Teardown – follow these steps to open the 3D printer housing or bottom hatch. Replace extruder wires, internal fan wires, jumpers etc. Check out the timeline below presented in editorial form.

Step One
Motherboard

Motherboard

Old Wires

Old Wires

Remove Hot Glue

Remove Hot Glue

Fan Ports

Fan Port

Rewrap

Rewrap

Reattach

Reattach

Power On

Power On

Next Steps, Step 2

Excellent! The first phase (Ender Teardown) is complete, and  we are moving onto Rebuild Part 2, which will be more challenging. This part of the build will involve swapping the extruders from Bowden to Direct Drive and potentially replacing the back plate depending on the hardware and tools required. It’s important to note that the back plates are not identical and will need some adjustments. We plan to proceed with the swap and salvage the old plate. It shouldn’t be too difficult, especially now that we have completed part 1. Removing the hot glue can be tricky, but once you get past that and the screw, everything should go smoothly.

This seems like a good place to end. I will post another update on the tool set we used to complete the Ender Teardown. I have recently added a Klein driver set, a handy multitool to complement the new torx set. Check back soon for more updates in round two!

TPU Post Processing

Testing, Slicer Settings, Heat and Bed Adhesion

Sprite Printing, TPU Post Processing Action

TPU Action – Post Processing

Max Neo Upgrades: Post Process Part of the TPU Action Series

Now, let’s discuss the ‘post process’ or TPU Post Processing after completing the physical upgrade of the Max Neo 3D Printer.

Moving on to the exciting part, we will delve into the settings, the testing process post-upgrade, and the outcomes of our efforts. As a sneak peek, we will explore the new ‘refurbed Max Neo’ (second machine), including its unboxing, post-setup testing, and transition to PETG filament for creating ‘usable’ or functional parts. All of this and more will be covered in our next article. So, we have addressed the reason behind the upgrade, which is primarily to enhance quality. Improving the quality issues has been and continues to be the main motivation for this upgrade. Additionally, the parts we have acquired for the upgrades aim to increase our success rate when using TPU filaments. Now, let’s get into the testing process.

Below a number of links have been removed overtime. Please reach out if you are seeking something in particular. The Creality Wiki is very helpful for those of you who have or would like to own and care for Creality products. TPU folks, specifically those who have the Sprite Pro Installed on an Ender printer, have a look at the Creality CR TPU… great working example of flexible filament for the necessary application

Downloads: Firmware, Slicers, Web Apps and more:

Creality Links Suggestions (links removed if blocked, do a search for the following in that cause)
Creality Wiki
Ender 3 Max Neo: Product Firmware and Slicer
Sprite Pro Extruder: Sprite Extruder Pro
Creality Motherboard: Motherboard Firmware v4.2.7
Ecosystem – Sonic Pad: Creality Sonic Pad

Make Your Own Printables –
Creality Cloud (newer printers): Cloud 3d Printer Management
Tinkercad

Settings, Printables: Pre-made Royalty/Royalty-Free –
All3dp Slicer Settings: All 3DP Settings
All3dp Support: All 3DP Support Settings
printables.com/model
Thingiverse
Cults3d

Let’s Test, Power On The Machine and Go

Earlier we discussed the hardware upgrades and software required for the motherboard. Now, the real test begins… (drum roll please). Sharing the 40,000 foot view, we can cover slicer settings, quality improvements and how the machine is running TPU today. Ultimately, we will cover the TPU Post Processing steps at a higher level here, while providing detailed specifics in a stand alone feature article. Perhaps, we will cover each setting and how it affects print quality overall. So, we have completed the teardown, upgrade, and rebuild activities. Ready the machine, perform pre-launch checks, ensure all connections are properly seated, motor connectors and belts are connected and plug it in. Toggle the power switch ‘on’ and start making stuff. TPU Post Processing is a go!

Starting with PLA first, after upgrades, the out-of-the-box settings are fairly accurate. A generous e-step setting (e-step refers to the distance the direct drive will push the material into the extruder heating element is recommended. Lesson one learned: a tight fit, or concise grouping of slicer, motherboard/motherboard software and direct drive extruder can improve the quality of TPU prints.

Creality Ecosystem and TPU Processing

Keep in mind, the ‘ecosystem’ described above, works to apply the correct pressure, volume of materials, heat and adhesion for TPU filament as it passes through the direct drive extruder. Continuing on, each subsequent print and setting tweak can improve the target goals forming a quality print. Beare in mind, we are looking for improvement round-over-round of testing, inching us closer to a seamless print. PLA is fairly easy to work with and can run OOB (out-of-box) with OOB settings. Despite mismatched hardware flaws from previous builds, this new hardware runs the latest firmware logics, producing orderly prints. Additionally, with each print, make sure the printer has been leveled, aligned and bed plate cleaned. The goal is high quality TPU prints, creating that ‘happy path’.

Logically speaking, when moving through baseline testing, it is important to reduce flaws and misprints. In our case, this involves establishing a new baseline measurement of quality. The baseline serves as a guide for what to expect when using an out-of-the-box (OOTB) solution for PLA manufacturing or hobby printing. The goal is to eliminate flaws, blips and globs that can occur during the printing process. This article assumes that the machine purchased is shipped with necessary parts and that these parts are properly installed either installed either by the retailer or supply house.

Take a breather, you deserve it. it’s a nice feeling to complete the build. The easy part, for all intense and purposes is now over.

Build On Upgrade Successes

Generally speaking, machines come with a MicroSD card with some preinstalled printables, in our case Boaty and Bunny. These test prints will help test pre-sliced builds, slicer tests (more calibration tests) such as adhesion, temperature, flowrate, etc. The timeframe for testing effort covers more than 2 weeks (time-lapsed, of course) of work. In between coding and other work, that ‘happy path’ quickly moved us from basic PLA calibration and testing to minimal adhesion issues. PLA blips were corrected with filament flow changes, an increase in temperature at the extruder tip and reduction of heat at the bed. Note, turn fans off. Fans or cooling filament, TPU and PETG require high temps for optimal extrusion and bed adhesion. Bed plate temps vary depending on filament type, but note that cooling the filament is out of scope. It’s more of a hassle and does more harm than good.

If I haven’t explicitly state this in my previous articles, simply removing the fans or programmatically turning them off at the slicer helps maintain higher quality prints day over day. During the Bowden to Direct Drive conversion, the fans were removed for the formal TPU run. They were also nerf’ed for this build, as the quality print quality over consecutive prints is not sufficient for an ideal manufacturing process with 10 or more prints. A better solution to note here, reduce fan power (or turn them off) as TPU and PETG are finicky filaments.

Reduced Filament Heat, Not Good For Business

Simply reducing heat is not enough, the cooling process can actually lead to poor bed adhesion issues, which we will address. However, our main focus is on eliminating any shipping or physical/hardware issues that may arise during the startup process and initial PLA prints. When it comes to PLA testing, we need to answer the following questions: Did we install the parts correctly? Does the filament passthrough the extruder smoothly? Are any anomalies in the prints due to hardware or software issues or are they the new norm? In simple terms, does the machine and all it’s parts function as expected? The answer should be yes! Below, we have outlined the steps to ensure everything is working properly. Additional text and images will be included to provide further clarification for those who need visual aids, so stay tuned!

Post Upgrades, PLA Settings and Prints
At Rest

At Rest

First Print

First Print

Cylinder Test

Cylinder Test

Smartphone Case Test

Case Test

Camera (Webcam)

Camera (Webcam)

Second Print

TPU Print

Second View

TPU Print Second View

Clean Up

Clean Up

Adhesive Problems and Clean up

Adhesion Problems

Filament Weight

Filament Weight

Midnight Run

Midnight Run

Sonic Smart Pad Crash

Smart Pad Crash

Sticking with moderate sized prints for larger sizes, the Max Neo is the largest bed plate available, quality, clean up effort and repeatability are all key factors in successful 3D printing. As they say, all’s well that ends well. Initially, PLA filaments ran smoothly, but bed adhesion issues arose when transitioning to TPU filaments, becoming a sore spot. It seems that all good things must come to an end (but we carry on). Work is ongoing, with bed adhesion remaining a concern. Test are ongoing as we search for the optimal TPU printing environment including machine settings, bed adhesion plates, temperatures, printing speed, e-steps, etc.

What has helped here is assuming users are using quality TPU filaments and a quality bed plate (textured or smooth) glass. Simple school glues, spray adhesives, and/or painter’s tape can quickly correct adhesion issues. Later on, we switched to using the Creality PEI bed plate and school glue for TPU and PETG prints, eliminating the need additional adhesives and their associated costs. Below, you will find a few of our successful prints, as well as some disasters, including late-night smartphone case print cycles and the decision to incorporate the new PEI bed surface.

Bed Adhesion, Sonic Pad Swap, TPU Settings Rollout
Duramic Run

Duramic Run

Skewed Results

Skewed Results

Stop The Press

Stop The Press

TPU Run

TPU Run

Prep Surface

Prep Surface

Peel PEI Surface

Peel PEI Surface

Bed Film Placed

Bed Film Placed

Bed Ready

Bed Ready

Adhesion crisis  averted, we can now delve into the new Creality V4.6 Slicer. Download it now if you can or choose to do so. The slicer comes packed full of new mix settings and reliable ‘custom’ settings that we use during the transition from PLA to TPU. Custom filament tweaks on the slicer get the job done. These settings serve as the gate approval system, easily covering baseline testing and PLA-to-TPU mashups. It’s important to note that the  slicer is crucial, along with the other hardware and software elements included in this build. 

Ultimately, upon reflection, I believe this is where the success of this build truly shines. The success of TPU Post Processing depends on the slicer, its customization and support settings. Moving forward, despite previous builds having only moderate success, the new Slicer is excellent and quite serviceable. I must mention the failures of the Sonic Pad here – we have decided to forgo the Sonic Pad for now and instead opt for the Wifi 2.0 boxes or manual printing using the Max Neo MicroSD and LCD interfaces at the machine. Honestly, it’s the build ecosystem the firmware, slicer, motherboard, and Sprite Pro extruder that has allowed us to achieve a level of quality that we were unable to attain in the previous builds. More on this will be discussed in another article.

Accessories, Bed Adhesion and Latest Settings

Moving on from the slicer settings and Sonic Pad issues, I decided to use the Wifi Box 2.0, with latest firmware to improve creature comfort while printing. This allows me to print from a seated position at my desk eliminating the need to constantly go back and forth between my desk and the printer for tasks like creation, slicing, MicroSD management, and selecting print. Additionally, I added a camera to work as a webcam, enabling me to print untethered or engage in hobby-level production. This upgrade can be likened to a ‘power up’ in Super Mario Bros. providing enhanced functionality. The upgraded webcam allows for seamless printing from the slicer to the printer using the Wifi Box.

We will address the challenges of using a Wyze webcam in a separate article. This article will provide a step-by-step guide for converting your camera. We will also include videos and the best guides to follow when converting your Wyze camera to a webcam. In conclusion, Wyze offers an affordable alternative  to other webcams on the market. By using a simple fix, developer-built code, and easy button combinations, you can easily convert your Wyze camera into a webcam. Now, let’s move on to TPU prints. 

Various TPU Filaments, Smartphone Case Tests, Clean Up
Grey Duramic

Grey Duramic

Grey Case

Grey Case

Parts At Once

Parts At Once

Creality TPU

Creality TPU

TPU Objects - All at once

TPU Objects

TPU Container

TPU Container

Tertiary Case

Tertiary Case

TPU Cleanup

TPU Cleanup

Legacy Case

Legacy Case

Legacy Case 2

Legacy Case

Cleaned Up

Cleaned Up

TPU Comparison

TPU Comparison

Production Variation

Thirdly, let’s discuss adhesion. As as we progress through TPU testing or post processing, PLA and TPU prints have ‘adhesion issues such as peeling or damage that appears to be caused by severe temperature changes. This is a good opportunity to address adhesion settings. Balancing bed temp and extrusion temperature is an ongoing testing process that you will become very familiar with when working with 3D print production. Think of it as a blend of art and science when working with 3D printers, printables and open source or custom designs.

Overall, if you don’t pay attention to adhesion and temperatures, things can quickly become difficult, especially with production variations using TPU filaments and even more so with PETG filaments. It’s important to maintain control, and a small amount of adhesive can make a big difference. With the upgraded motherboard, extruder, PEI build plate, and proper adhesion using school glue, you can have better control. Pay attention to settings, especially when it comes to support (use a generous amount for support at the plate) and bed plate adhesion like using the raft selection.

Temperature Improvements and Optimal Settings

Ideal or optimal slicer settings work to complement a brim/auto brim or raft adhesion type. With the addition of what has been tested to be the best bed adhesion type… temps at 250 degrees, bed at 0 degrees, (fan at 0) and speed at 50%. Three products were tested: heavy strength spray adhesive, painters tape and simple school glue. Testing suggestions, again, not required, but more as a release agent. Now, the opposite can be said for PETG, which we will cover in another article. Those settings are still being worked out. As you can imagine, working through the TPU settings took about ~2 weeks of effort, PETG has a much longer testing effort.

Today, we have gathered and processed with what may be the optimal TPU Slicer settings. A new camera position, guided by fewer misprints in our testing efforts, has been implemented to reduce production flaws like blips, or globs, traveling over the print. We have managed to nail down or complete what feels like the final tweaks for TPU printables. Therefore, before we introduce PETG (which can be challenging on its own), we have minimized difficulties and ensured high quality. Before we transition away from TPU, I would like to highlight both the successes and failures in achieving quality. We are gradually transitioning from hardware/software upgrades to different filament types such as PLA, TPU, and now PETG. We are exploring factors such as heat, bed temperature, support and bed adhesion methods.

Wrap up and Conclusion

PETG filaments introduce a range of new adhesion issues, making clean up a nightmare. Additionally, while the quality of prints has improved in terms of  smoothness and clarity, all prints require some form of ‘final processing’ or deburring. To build on the success of TPU printing, we have invested in additional tools such as Klein Tools Flush Cutters and AFA Deburring Tool Set. These purchases aim to enhance post-print output, with the goal of significantly improving final production or shippable pieces with typical manufacturing process (design, construction, production, shipping).

Finally, at the end here, we touched on the TPU Post Processing setup. Let’s share some more images for those who enjoy visuals, think of it as a snapshot of ‘where we are today’… one click printing, high quality prints, replicable from PLA to PETG, camera, and wifi box 2.0. Let’s cover the initial PLA testing, the TPU filament torture test (array), and final print slicer/WiFi Box settings on the next episode of TPU Action!

Slicer Tweaks, Latest Prints
Web Cam

Web Cam

Test Builds

Test Builds

New TPU Filament

New TPU Filament

Matching Tool Station

Matching Tool Station

Purchase a WiFi 2.0 Box

WiFi 2.0 Box

Dual WiFi Boxes running multiple machines

Matching WiFi Box

TPU Full Setup

Full Setup

Revisit previous posts in this series which cover the new filament spool upgrade, upgradable parts such as  hardware, accessories, filament and current pricing. All of these items can be found on the Shopping List. Alternatively, you can read about the upgrade process and the successes achieved along the way.