Dolphin On

Maytronics Nautilus CC Plus Repair Update

Dolphin Motor Unit Exchange

Dolphin On

Lab Work – Maytronics Repair, Dolphin On, Post Hurricane

Parts are in, Dolphin Has Been Repaired, Cleaning Away

Let’s take a closer look at the process. Upon further inspection, I found corrosion around the motors. The seal around the power cord also appears to be in poor condition. So, I proceed with a teardown, replacing the power unit, and tread ball bearings to restore the robot back to full capacity with genuine OEM parts. A self-test  was performed as need, I conducted a number of in-water and out-of-water tests which worked perfectly. As it should, under normal power. Next, I replaced all parts and picked up where we left off on the last article Nautilus Down (check that out if you missed it).

Pre-Check, Install and Test

Check all cogs, ball bearings, drive pin, and wheel/hub parts. Make sure ball bearings are moving freely and free of rust or degradation. Replaced any parts showing degradation or major rust. Filled electronic parts and pressure seals with pool lube and reconnected parts, careful to screw-down fasteners and plastic nuts with appropriate tension. Dolphin On. Additionally, both out-of-water and in-the-water tests performed as expected. Time for a swim! Cinched down any screws, or screens, package up the robot and ran the clean cycle.

Robot Build
New Unit

New Unit

Connector

Unit Connector

Cross Check

Dry Fit

Tread Check

Tread Check

Proper Fit

Proper Fit

Motor Check

Motor Check

Dolphin on Dry Test

Dry Test

Post Test

Post Test

Brush Down and Toggle The Dolphin On

If you can’t tell, the pool has sand, debris and dragonflies. Before we toggle the Dolphin On, let’s do a quick brush down of the pool to encourage removal.  You can kind of see here the pool was a bit dirty,  as the hurricane kicked up enough debris for the Dolphin to clean. There was no pool cage carnage, or aluminum part failure, which is great. Minor screen damage only.

Maytronics Documents and More

Finally, following the test cycles, Dolphin on, put in the water and cleaned the pool well. In most cases, the vacuum actively cleans on stage 1, please the Maytronics manuals. Find Stage 1 testing and more robot testing features under the Nautilus CC Plus section. I hope this information helps, how to get your pool robot fixed and Dolphin On. If anyone out there needs assistance, please contact me I am happy to help. Thanks! As usual leave a comment below to let us know what you’re thinking!

Dolphin Down

Nautilus CC Plus Repair Needed

Nautlius Motor Troubles

Dolphin Down, Waiting On Parts

Lab Work – Maytronics Repair, Dolphin Down. Let’s fix the Nautilus CC Plus

Looks like a new motor unit is required. Full teardown ahead.

Exciting news! A new series, Dolphin Down, is coming soon. This series is related to the repair of the Maytronics Dolphin Nautilus CC Plus. Currently, we are awaiting the arrival of a new motor unit. In the meantime, we are in the process of dismantling the Nautilus CC Plus robot in search of a malfunctioning drive motor.

The fan motor is functioning properly, passing both tests passed – underwater and out-of-water tests. The multimeter has confirmed that the drive motor is not working. The circuit board appears to be in good, working condition confirmed by the blinking green LEDs. The LEDs indicating that it is functioning as expected. This a positive sign for our robot and the repair diagnosis. 

Robot Teardown
Housing

Housing

Screen Key

Screen Key

Prop Screen

Prop Screen

Cord

Cord

Internals

Internals

Motor Unit

Motor Unit

Remove Prop

Remove Prop

Prop Residue

Prop Residue

Sealed Cord

Sealed Cord

To begin the teardown process, find a safe spot and grab a multi-tool with pliers, flathead and cross bits (Phillips bits). Start by removing the power cord from the unit and unplugging the unit from the wall if necessary. First, on the Dolphin, unscrew the four screws under the filter doors to remove the top. Use the transparent or white flathead key or knob to pop open the propeller gate, which is easily accessible once the filter doors are open.

Next, slide the cord out from under the blue, body cover after removing the four main screws. Adjust the cord, remove the floats and be careful when removing the side panels. These panels should just pop off top down.  Just be aware of the tabs on the bottom of the panels, this is what hold the body shells in place. Use the pliers to unscrew the blue cord connected to the power unit, as well as the four screws holding the two yellow cord strips to the unit. Unscrew the four unit screws holding the motor unit in place and it will be free.

Robot Teardown
Drive Bearings

Drive Bearings

Motor Unit

Motor Unit

Remove Unit

Remove Unit

Board Check

Board Check

Drive Motor

Drive Motor

Finally, check all cogs, drive belts, and wheel/hub parts. Ensure that the ball bearings are moving freely, unobstructed and are free of rust or degradation.  Replace any parts that showing degradation, wear or significant rust. Fill with lubricant and reconnect parts, being careful to screw with appropriate tension. Test the robot out of water first, followed by half-submerged and fully submerged underwater tests. *Updated – Check out the repair – Dolphin On or the first post we commented on regarding the Maytronics Nautilus Dolphin for more information on troubleshooting, maintenance and repairs. More information will be provided in the next *5 business days, as we will be receiving the new motor unit packaging up the robot and running the cleaning cycle. Thank you.

As always, feel free to leave a comment below, let us know your thoughts!

Drone Accessories

Grab Your Drones and Transmitters. We Are Racing

Taranis Carbon Fiber Transmitter

New FrSky Taranis Q X7S, Prop Blades, Batteries and Caps

Gear – Drone Accessories

Adding our at-home, indoor flight “program” (a little tongue-in-cheek), we have new accessories, transmitters and blades – let’s race!

With our Amazon order received,  we have a mixed lot of parts and accessories. It’s time to break out the racing drones again, as we needed a few bits and parts to get them flying just right. A new transmitter, a second FrSky Taranis QX7S (Carbon Fiber) Remote for a second racing drone along with blades and batteries. The goal was to fix what needed fixing and get ready for racing.

And racing we shall! With side-by-side flight, using dual transmitters, we can race real-time, with similar nano drones for indoor racing games. I’ve added toggle caps/covers for those new to quad racing – these caps provide pilots and hobbyists with visual cues and help reinforce muscle memory for which  toggles are active. This aids in remote usage and recognition during take off, flight, landing and crashes.

Lastly, we are in the process of turning over our battery collection, some of which are over 4 years old. A few have problems, but around 4 to 5 remain in good or optimal shape for flight. So,  with a few extra batteries (8 in total, 2 packs of 4 batteries) we can enjoy 15 – 20 minutes of real racing time, assuming normal flight ranges and pilot skill.

Drone Accessories
FrSky Transmitter

FrSky Case

Ready 4 Flight

Ready 4 Flight

Toggle Covers

Toggle Covers

Avan Blades

Avan Blades

EMAX LiPos

EMAX LiPos

Racing Drone

Racing Drone New Blades

Racing Drone

Racing Drone

Dual Racing Drones

Dual Racing Drones

For those of you interested in learning more about the drone hobby, or wanting to see more. I have one more resource for you: the Drone Racing League. The league flies all around the world, but more specifically the race in Germany. The league race took place at DHL Tower – Race 6 (EU), where drones are reaching speeds over 100mph and race skyward over skyscrapers, performing flips beyound your wildest imagination. The race features super high-end drones and professional pilots running quadcopter and competing for money! It’s crazy tech in action.

Other Drone Resources

If you’re new to quadcopter(s) and are wondering what to buy – drones, drone accessories etc., FPV (First Person View) flight, check out @Bardwells YouTube channel for all kinds of tips and fixes (my goto for FC and BetaFlight help). Most videos are extremely detailed, with the goal of getting you hooked! Shout out to Joshua, he’s a legend as his videos played a pivotal role in getting the EMAX drones bound to the original Taranis transmitter via BetaFlight. For parts, check out our shopping list, where I’ll post links to the quadcopter(s) (drones), parts, accessories and more.

We also have a number of articles on the subject matter; including the Emax TH2, drone repair, full-sized drone operation, video in flight and more. Feel free to preview those any time. Interested in a full sized video drone? Check out the DJI Phantom Pro series as well. 

Although it’s been months since we posted anything related to the Taranis Q RC transmitters, more can be found here. Also, if you’re interested in more Emax lab work this two part Emax Series – Part 1 and Part 2 is a great place to start. In order would be best to explore this content, or if you want to jump to the conclusion click on Part 2 for the fix.

Before we sign off, we have to plug our own shopping list, the drone accessories will be posted on the site shortly.

Filament Spool Update

Rack Installation: Spool Structure & a Digital Scale. Easy On.

Spool Rack

Creality Digital Spool Rack

Gear – Filament Rack

Needed an additional part and pieces for the update, this Creality filament spool update.

Today, we have a Filament Spool Update and the final accessory to add to the TPU upgrade build. Dare I call it the final piece of the puzzle for the build.

What are we looking at here? It’s a top-mounted (overhead) rack, specifically the Creality Digital Spool Rack. The rack, or filament management rack sits atop the main brace/cross-bracket framing structure as shown below (see new spool image). The spool rack will allow for multiple filament types:* PLA, ABS, Nylon, Wood, and TPU *assuming the filament comes on a spool, regardless of the size. It’s important to note that Creality includes a portion of filament or test filament with a new or refurbished printer. This information is helpful for new 3D printer users.

The advantage? TPU specifically can unwind and pass through a top cross-brace funneling mechanism directly into the new direct drive extruder. This serves as the new static filament storage area/piece. For those of you with a Bowden drive, you may not understand, but after the upgrade, we needed a way to feed filament to the direct drive extruder. This serves as the solution. 

3D Printer Accessories
New Spool

New Spool

Digi Spool

Digi Spool

Spool Rack

Spool Rack

Creality makes this handy filament rack, replacing the OEM side mounted rack. It’s perfect for filament management – size, weight over time etc. Same as the  OEM rack with a few upgrades like a bright, digital scale. The rack has a large, bright digital scale Interface, a great visual for filament volume, space and duration. 

The key here, as part of the Filament Spool Update, the digital read out (interface) built into the spool mount brings ‘site by volume’. How about software updates, let’s cover that too. And as you can imagine, this can help predict usage, and consumption rates. More importantly, cost per item or printable. It’s small enough to screw to the topside of the support frame. The interface is bright enough to work in the dark, cast enough light onto the printer bed. Note, all filament types in spool formant should work on the rack, TPU, ABS, Nylon, Wood and/or PLA. All material come into scope once the direct drive is up and functioning as expected.