Issues Archives

August 20, 2024April 3, 2025

Dolphin On

Maytronics Nautilus CC Plus Repair Update

Dolphin On

Lab Work – Maytronics Repair, Dolphin On, Post Hurricane

Parts are in, Dolphin Has Been Repaired, Cleaning Away

Let’s take a closer look at the process. Upon further inspection, I found corrosion around the motors. The seal around the power cord also appears to be in poor condition. So, I proceed with a teardown, replacing the power unit, and tread ball bearings to restore the robot back to full capacity with genuine OEM parts. A self-test was performed as need, I conducted a number of in-water and out-of-water tests which worked perfectly. As it should, under normal power. Next, I replaced all parts and picked up where we left off on the last article Nautilus Down (check that out if you missed it).

Pre-Check, Install and Test

Check all cogs, ball bearings, drive pin, and wheel/hub parts. Make sure ball bearings are moving freely and free of rust or degradation. Replaced any parts showing degradation or major rust. Filled electronic parts and pressure seals with pool lube and reconnected parts, careful to screw-down fasteners and plastic nuts with appropriate tension. Dolphin On. Additionally, both out-of-water and in-the-water tests performed as expected. Time for a swim! Cinched down any screws, or screens, package up the robot and ran the clean cycle.

Robot Build

New Unit

Unit Connector

Dry Fit

Tread Check

Proper Fit

Motor Check

Dry Test

Post Test

Brush Down and Toggle The Dolphin On

If you can’t tell, the pool has sand, debris and dragonflies. Before we toggle the Dolphin On, let’s do a quick brush down of the pool to encourage removal. You can kind of see here the pool was a bit dirty, as the hurricane kicked up enough debris for the Dolphin to clean. There was no pool cage carnage, or aluminum part failure, which is great. Minor screen damage only.

Maytronics Documents and More

Finally, following the test cycles, Dolphin on, put in the water and cleaned the pool well. In most cases, the vacuum actively cleans on stage 1, please the Maytronics manuals. Find Stage 1 testing and more robot testing features under the Nautilus CC Plus section. I hope this information helps, how to get your pool robot fixed and Dolphin On. If anyone out there needs assistance, please contact me I am happy to help. Thanks! As usual leave a comment below to let us know what you’re thinking!

August 14, 2024April 2, 2025

Dolphin Down

Nautilus CC Plus Repair Needed

Dolphin Down, Waiting On Parts

Lab Work – Maytronics Repair, Dolphin Down. Let’s fix the Nautilus CC Plus

Looks like a new motor unit is required. Full teardown ahead.

Exciting news! A new series, Dolphin Down, is coming soon. This series is related to the repair of the Maytronics Dolphin Nautilus CC Plus. Currently, we are awaiting the arrival of a new motor unit. In the meantime, we are in the process of dismantling the Nautilus CC Plus robot in search of a malfunctioning drive motor.

The fan motor is functioning properly, passing both tests passed – underwater and out-of-water tests. The multimeter has confirmed that the drive motor is not working. The circuit board appears to be in good, working condition confirmed by the blinking green LEDs. The LEDs indicating that it is functioning as expected. This a positive sign for our robot and the repair diagnosis.

Robot Teardown

Housing

Screen Key

Prop Screen

Cord

Internals

Motor Unit

Remove Prop

Prop Residue

Sealed Cord

To begin the teardown process, find a safe spot and grab a multi-tool with pliers, flathead and cross bits (Phillips bits). Start by removing the power cord from the unit and unplugging the unit from the wall if necessary. First, on the Dolphin, unscrew the four screws under the filter doors to remove the top. Use the transparent or white flathead key or knob to pop open the propeller gate, which is easily accessible once the filter doors are open.

Next, slide the cord out from under the blue, body cover after removing the four main screws. Adjust the cord, remove the floats and be careful when removing the side panels. These panels should just pop off top down. Just be aware of the tabs on the bottom of the panels, this is what hold the body shells in place. Use the pliers to unscrew the blue cord connected to the power unit, as well as the four screws holding the two yellow cord strips to the unit. Unscrew the four unit screws holding the motor unit in place and it will be free.

Robot Teardown

Drive Bearings

Motor Unit

Remove Unit

Board Check

Drive Motor

Finally, check all cogs, drive belts, and wheel/hub parts. Ensure that the ball bearings are moving freely, unobstructed and are free of rust or degradation. Replace any parts that showing degradation, wear or significant rust. Fill with lubricant and reconnect parts, being careful to screw with appropriate tension. Test the robot out of water first, followed by half-submerged and fully submerged underwater tests. *Updated – Check out the repair – Dolphin On or the first post we commented on regarding the Maytronics Nautilus Dolphin for more information on troubleshooting, maintenance and repairs. More information will be provided in the next *5 business days, as we will be receiving the new motor unit packaging up the robot and running the cleaning cycle. Thank you.

As always, feel free to leave a comment below, let us know your thoughts!

May 16, 2024March 30, 2025

Fix 3D Prints and Plastics

Be Creative Without the Hassle

Quick Fix With Super Glue and Baking Soda

Strong Adhesives, Baking Soda and Spray Activator/Hardener Light

Fix plastics, wood lures, wood carvings and more. Fix 3d Prints and Plastics better than traditional fillers or bonding agents.

Adhesives, Clean Up/Deburring

Starbond Kit – Starbond Kit – Glue & Activator Starbond – Super Fast Thin Glue JB Weld – J-B Weld Bonder (2) Pack AFA Tooling – AFA Tooling Deburring Tools
Dremel Tool – Dremel High Performance Rotary Tool Kit

In A Tight Spot, Choose Super Adhesive and Baking Soda

Need a quick fix, while out fishing in the field? Or did a new 3D print break during the clean up process? What should you do now? For a quick fix, simply grab some extra strength glue, our choice, Starbond, Starbond activator, baking soda and start the filling process. This method works on wood, plastics, and more. By using baking soda as the ‘filler’ and the super adhesive as the bonding agent, you’ll have a quick fix in no time.

If you need to clean up your 3D Printables, fix drones and drone parts, clean up or deburr plastics and filler using super adhesives and baking soda, deburring tools are a must. When producing items from plastics or resin compounds such as wood, metals and plastics, the production process isn’t perfect, leaving you with work post production. Tasks like, trimming for metal stamping or removing travel or supports in the 3D printing process, require specific tools. We recommend AFA Deburring Tools for hand scraping and clean up, as well as the Dremel Rotary Tool for tile, clay, woods and metals. These tools are handy to have around the shop for various tasks.

Finally, for those tough jobs, or bonds, try JB Weld (J-B Weld Amazon Store). There are many applications for JB weld. Whether it’s loose or broken tiles, outdoor furniture, or any other project, JB Weld Epoxy and adhesives will create a strong and lasting bond using chemical bonding resins.

For a comprehensive list of all products mentioned above, please refer to our affiliate shopping list for ideas, product information, and more. Here are some products you may want to consider! Please note that this is just one method of fixing plastics; it was a test to demonstrate the effectiveness of the adhesive and baking soda powder.

March 18, 2024March 30, 2025

M1 Inspection And Teardown

Work To Identify Norms, Baseline Tests

M1 Inspection – Screen, Touch bar & Keys

M1 Inspection Report – Visual Inspection and Teardown

Time will be relevant here, take your time, clean up as you go; we will be replacing several items, the screen, touch bar and keys on the M1 MBP.

Inspection, Condition

First, let’s start with the inspection. Let’s call it the M1 Visual Inspection & Teardown. Shall we begin? We will start with the physical inspection, then move into the software inspection, computational tests and gather the relevant information to start the refurbishment. So, what is the physical damage? Does this damage impact the computers ability to function or compute? In turn, we want to know where the damage is and how it might impact the machine’s performance, computing power, UI (User Interface) etc…

Visual Hardware Inspection

Left Bottom Case Corner

Corner Right

Side Case Blemishing

Screen Issues

Touch Issues

Keys

Keys & Touch

Sand, Glass Debris

Secondly, we can observe screen issues, such as LCD problems where the screen is affected by broken glass or screen distortion. Upon close examination, scratches and broken/cracked glass can be seen in the black sublayer of the LCD screen. At the bottom of the display, near the hinge, and just about the touch bar. There may have been some debris or object inside this screen area when the computer was closed by the user. At least, that is my hunch.

Now, as for the case, the metal case appears worn but not excessively so. All corners have some damage, scratches, etc., but overall it seems okay (the case did it’s job). There is nothing that raises a red flag indicating damage that could cause internal or computing issues.

Interfaces: LCD, Trackpad and Keyboard

Thirdly, in the next step of the M1 Visual Inspection & Teardown article, let’s inspect the keyboard. The directional arrow is missing and the touch bar is no longer illuminating… I wonder if the key came off and damaged the screen some how? Not likely, but something appears to have been closed in the laptop where the touch bar and screen would meet upon closing the laptop. Another takeaway is that the machine may need an overhaul, or a new upper (upper case, which can be extremely expensive as it will include all parts).

Finally, parting out, or fixing each piece, individually is not recommended. Now a disclaimer – this is my own machine. Typically ,items under warranty will be processed through Apple via Apple Care. Utilize Apple Care or Apple+ where you can, assuming you’ve purchased the warranty/insurance. If not, things can get expensive. There are resources out there as you can imagine. Hopefully posts like this and those following help to provide some guidance in dire straits.

Ok, now that we got that out, let’s get to the first fix; this left arrow key and LCD screen. Quickly, see other articles linked to this story: Self Repair, Refurb, Screen & Keys and Touchbar

January 19, 2024April 3, 2025

Quick Tip – Float

Stop Running Water

Pesky Toilet, Fix Running Water Issue

Toilet Running? Quick Tip – Check the Float, Stop the Water Flow Correctly.

Quick Tip: Is your toilet leaking or running? Start by checking for a few common issues. Is the water continuously filling the toilet? This could indicate a water shutoff problem. Is the flap broken, deteriorating, or blocked by debris like a tank cleaner puck or tablet?

Next Steps

Here are two simple steps to fix the problem we are trying to solve in this quick tip article regarding floats and flaps. First, check the flap. Is it the correct size and in good condition? If not, replace it. Adjust the flap sinker and chain as needed. Second, check the float. Make sure it is floating properly to shut off the water once the tank reaches the set float height. Fixing these issues can help stop your toilet from leaking or running.

Toilet Inspection, Repair

Visual Inspection

Unscrew Water Hose

Tank Screw

Replace Flap

Water Pipe

Screw Water Hose

When it comes to toilet repair, there are few things you need to check, such as water height and water pressure. For a quick fix, start by turning off the water, draining the tank, vacuuming out any remaining water (having a bucket nearby can be helpful in tight spaces). Let’s loosen the plastic nut(which is a common material these days) that connects the tank to the water spout. Do the same for the float nut, which is the other connection point under the tank for modern toilets.

Once the hose and float have been removed, along with the float assembly and hose connecting the ‘out flow’ pipe, which may be another potential leak point, replace what was removed with new materials and turn the water back on. And just like that, your toilet is fixed. It may not be a technical task, but everyone has a toilet, and appliances and fixtures can break down from time to time. Keep this handy tip in mind for the next time.

Like the quick fix format? Check out other quick fix content here such as this disposal problems fix. Like the learn to descale your coffee equipment – pots and machines. Much like this fix a toilet float article… clean and fixpool filter housing and filter problem or try a cell phone charging hack… Check them out!

October 6, 2023April 3, 2025

Rebuild Part 4

Ender Series TPU Upgrade Part 4 Continues

Failed Prints, eSteps/Stepper, Filaments and More

Lab Work – Rebuild Part 4

Fine tuning, break-fix, and reprints. Yes, break-fix steps continue, including fine tuning/recalibration, config adjustments, steppers, test prints and more. Largely, considered a failure so far…

Here in Rebuild Part 4, we cover the failures, not to worry! We will get this fixed with upgrades and all. A couple of cycles now, including – what I will call the ‘teardown-and-rebuild’ cycle – removal of most external upgrades such as the Creality Sonic Pad, Wifi Box 2.0, direct drive extruder, tubes and hot end…

The key is to isolate issues with the teardown and rebuild cycle, building up with neutral or known issues. Please note, the Sonic Pad interface, under the ‘advanced settings’, extrusion settings… the default extrusion type must be changed/modified to include the ‘sprite extruder’, this accounts for the upgrades and the most significant step forward.

Moving on from the Sonic Pad

Please note, there are four default settings – default, sprite, MK8 and manual or custom. Although we quickly tested each extrusion type, here, we focused in on the sprite extruder settings. It is also important to mention that we have not had a successful TPU print. The TPU prints have been bad to say the least, as you will see in the test photos, ranging from bad to worse in some cases.

In addition to misprints, under-printing has been a major issue. This is due to extrusion steps as mentioned above. Please check the Sonic Pad Settings – Advanced Settings – Custom Extrusion Settings – Spite Extrusion vs Onboard Interface ramping up eSteps ~ to around 500mm. Before we proceed, we have have experienced globules (large drops of melted TPU, similar in shape and size to the end of a q-tip) misprints, gummed up nozzles and so on.

Wifi Box and Motherboard

Beyond this point, I have considered a board swap, which will also be something to consider until the print issues can be ironed out. Yes, that would mean an effort in futility, involving a full swap which would be considered moot. For those who might not understand, this would leave only the base hardware/structure unchanged, changing out all components; which is not the goal. If a required motherboard change is confirmed – specifically Creality motherboard v 4.2.7 specifically, a new printer specifically used for TPU might be the answer. Not ideal, but necessary.

Below, you will find new images that have been posted, thought it would help to highlight the removal of the fans, changing out the heating element and sensor and Sonic Pad configs. Furthermore, I feel we are close to a successful print. Before I forget, the PLA prints run with little error, printing test cubes with minor blips or over printing… Beware, slicer/printer controllers do vary, Utlimaker Cura, Creality Slicers etc have varying results, some with no result at all as the print is shown outside the consoles ‘known print’ area. More on that later, we can share a few posts on slicer successes (failures in our case).

Rebuild Activities

Next, let’s cover some of the activities taking place during the rebuild:

Hot End
Assembly
Backplate
Sprite Extruder
Filament Tube
Filaments
Bed level, Adhesion Spray Glue and Blue Tape
Software – firmware and slicers (Creality Cloud, Creality Slicer, Ultimaker Cura)
Wifi Box, MicroSD Cards, Sonic Pad, Onboard Interface
OS – MacOS/Linux
Lot’s of cleaning, grab yourself a brass brush
E-stepper
Nozzles
Temperatures – hot end, bed
Homing Issues
Extrusion Settings
Homing Issues

Rebuild Part 4 continues with the addition of more nozzles, needles, upgraded plate screws, leveling, Capricorn tube, and the Spider 2.0/3.0 Pro hot end… motherboard? We will soon be facing a full swap! Ugh. While it may seem like a lot of work, it is all part of 3D printing. Don’t let that discourage you. The challenge, whether it’s a build problem or a technical issue, is what I enjoy the most. I thrive on finding solutions and working through those challenges, enven if it means testing and failing multiple times. I will share a video at some point, but for now, pictures and commentary will have to suffice.

New Sprite Extruder, Test Prints, and Sonic Pad Failure

First TPU

Sonic Pad Failure

Sprite Extruder Assembled

Unplug Fans

Hot End, Sprite Extruder

Moving forward, I would like to address some items on the pending list. I believe there may be an issue with the heating element, thermistor, and nozzle. This could be causing problems such as incorrect temps and filament build-up on these components, leading to issues with filament adhesion to build surface. I have read that 424.9 degrees C temp, but we still need to determine the appropriate temp for our specific build. The hot-end and thermistor may be causing these issues, so we ned to investigate and eliminate them as potential factors. Additionally, we should keep some needles on hand to clear the filament path in the direct-drive assembly, as the accumulation of burnt filament can exacerbate the situation. This will be a priority for us to address this week.

New Sprite Extruder Assembly

Hot End Wiring

Install Hot End

Heat Sensor

Assembly

Unboxing

Reassemble

New Hot End

We are skipping the motherboard for now in Rebuild Part 4 because they are not needed at this time. As mentioned before, the motherboard will be part of the full swap. Instead, we are focusing on the new sprite extruder and direct drive motor upgrades that were purchased at the beginning of this build. It’s worth nothing that there are extruders that do not require upgrades, specifically for the 4.2.7 motherboard. Fortunately, this upgrade will include the necessary 4.2.7 motherboard, which is not required for this build.

Following the items mentioned above, the next steps involve installing new screws, metal tension knobs, cushions, tubing and hot end. Ideally, the goal is to achieve a level and consistent bed/build plate temp, a clean adhesion plate, consistent hot end temp to reduce ‘leaking’ and hot end ‘heat creep”, to use quality filament. By addressing these hardware issues, we hope to minimize or eliminate any problems. Assuming the hardware and upgrade components work, the final challenge will be the software adjustments.

Initial TPU Test Prints

TPU appears to be more challenging when testing and encountering failures, especially when failing more frequently than anticipated. However, I managed to successfully print a clean model by swapping filaments and using the old Bowden drive and PLA settings. This step back was necessary to ensure that the base product still prints as intended.

Honestly, the speed-to-market issue comes into play here (assuming you are looking to print commercially or in some professional fashion), as we are lacking the ability to print PLA at a low cost per print and TPU. Join us as we work to find a solution. The problem will be solved shortly, with more to come.

Part of this process is maintaining a positive outlook, even when balls of filament build up on the hot end and nozzle for the 40th test. I know we are close, but as we eliminate or mitigate more pieces and parts, the solution will emerge. I might just need a few more mins to find the right combination of parts and software.

TPU Comments

Frankly speaking, this post, Rebuild Part 4 – TPU has been quite a ride. TPU isn’t too difficult to work with on newer machines, but we need to find a solution for the Ender platform that is budget-friendly for some or maybe not when compared to other very expensive printers that offer out-of-the-box solutions for various fulfillment needs. I will say this, for those seeking an easy, out of the box 3D printer (crickets, crickets), time and budget will be major factors; it could if not the defining factor; make or break the decision.

Finally, we will wrap up the series in part 5, let’s check out Part 5 – Rebuild – Rebuild, Sonic Pad Adjustments and assembly. Check out the new post content, see more, read previous articles in the series, Rebuild – Start, Rebuild – Progress, and Rebuild 3.

September 21, 2023March 30, 2025

Rebuild Part 2

Ender Series TPU – Pre-Assembly, Rebuild In Progress Part 2

Assembly & Direct Drive Rebuild, 2

Lab Work – Rebuild In Progress, Part 2

A few steps forward now, we pick up with the bold on extruder assembly and assembly backplate here in part 2. So, we continue the rebuild in progress, part 2.

Focus, Removal Of Bowden Drive

Fully Assembled

Remove Housing

Extruder

Remove Fans

Remove Extruder

Disassembly

Hot End

Clip Tubing

DD To Extruder

DD Tubing

Motor Clips

Motor Control

We continue with the Rebuild In Progress, Part 2, following on from the previous article in the series, Rebuild part 1. We are discarding the original backplate and incorporating new assembly hardware (correction, new back plate needed see that update here). Unfortunately, the new OEM plate was not compatible with my setup, so I will salvage the new wheels, screws, tightening washers, bolts, and spacers where possible. I quickly performed a dry-fit of all the components, including the screws, spacers, wheels brackets, probe (a black, narrow plastic piece with a probe), side fans (with yellow and blue wires), and heating element (comprised of a heater, heat sink and extruder).

For the final step, make sure to tighten the wheel screws, fan, drive belts, and extruder before installing the heating element. The order in which you do this is important, just like when removing the Bowden drive, brackets and extruder tube. We will reuse some of the old tube to guide TPU filament into the new direct drive extruder. Next, install the extruder fan (red and black wires). Now, you can unscrew the two top wheels and install the new direct drive platform, secure it, and snap on the carriage case (note: the hot side should be on top).

Next, attach the direct drive by clipping it onto the tube provided tube, then snip the tube after a fitting or two. Ensure, the fit is correct. Screw in the direct drive platform from the backside of the plate, which should be installed on the last step. After securing it, connect the direct drive motor to the main line by passing the frame platform where the old extruder motor was located (refer to the last couple of images) and place the harvested tube for the filament.

Easy, right? Part 3 will be coming shortly. We will cover that tomorrow. We need to replace the heating plate, power on the machine and change the step movement.

August 30, 2023March 30, 2025

Disposal Problem

We Found Food and Debris, Fixing A Disposal Problem

No Grind, Time For A New Disposal

Lab Work – Emergency Fix, Disposal Problem

A few weeks ago, we had a minor issue with the sink disposal, hence the disposal problem. The picture here is speaks volumes about the problem we encountered.

Once the problem was identified, it was clear that we needed to replace the disposal unit while limited pipe reconfiguration. Helps to stay on brand, or within the same brand name (size, fit and disposal location). Upon closer inspection, we found that rust had caused significant damage internally. I had to remove the seal and screws to crack open the top of the disposal unit. Honestly, I was surprised by how worn out the unit was. It was definitely time for a replacement, and were fortunate to have discovered the issue when we did.

Disposal Parts and Install

New Disposal Install

Disposal Rust

Clean Teeth

Interior View

Disposal Findings and Fix

Next, the title, “Disposal Problem ‘no grind’, time to replace it a new title. Unfortunately, the 1/2 replacement had a short in the wiring. Being a conscientious consumer, I decided to upgrade to the new InSinkErator 3/4 hp, which you can see here. It was a smart choice as it was the same brand and fit perfectly in the cabinet space. You can see the final installation below. These disposal units are usually plug and play, assuming that piping and plugs are readily available and identical. For this reason, I stuck with the same brand, hoping for seamless setup.

Anyhow, I didn’t want to hack away at the existing pipe or change around the pipe configuration nor the cabinetry etc. Ideally, just a quick swap, maintain the status quo or better for the drain pipes and the sinks output. In regards to the Badger 15ss, you’ll see the upgrade comes with slight increase in HP, a plastic outer case/shell “marketing” and a sparkly new (newly cleaned) lower cabinet area for the foreseeable future. Quick work of this disposal problem.

What a mess. Moving along, fix in place, watch what you put down the sink etc. Remember to check the sealant between the disposal and connector. We had a little leakage that has now been remedied. Not bad, virtually the same machine, replaced, tools – pliers, pipe wrench, flathead, pipe tape and a small bin in case of water leaks or intrusion in the future.

Quick Fix Format

Like the quick fix format? Check out other quick fix content here such as this disposal problems fix. Learn how to descale your coffee equipment – pots and machines, fix a toilet float, clean and fix pool filter housing and filter problem or try a cell phone charging hack… Check them out!

Finally, hopefully (fingers-crossed), you can learn a thing or two. Be sure to unplug disposals, have some extra ‘shop’ towels to mop up excess water or worse, sink goo. Make sure local power outlets are off and to be safe, turn off water where applicable.

August 22, 2023March 30, 2025

Quick Fix – Nano Mixer

Nano Mixer In Hand, Let’s Get To TheFix

Bloom’n Again, Mixer Back In Action

Tech And Tools – Frother Quick Fix

Quick Fix – Disassemble, Clean, New Batteries…

Quickly stir in sugar and milk, mix up your protein powders and fine particulates; all made easy with the Bloom mixer. I wanted to share a quick fix, as our nano mixer quit on us a few weeks back. Typically, the morning and afternoon espresso is ‘cut’ with a few granules of sugar and some half and half… as I get older, the trend has been ‘lighter and sweeter’… any how, here is the internal works of the mixer, teardown – a few screws, clean up, reset the metal prongs and a new set of batteries and we were back in business. Mixing up protein powder, scrambling eggs and espresso/coffee.

Just a note, be sure to keep the lower body (green structural plastic in the picture) dry if you can, there is a bit of a seal there… but better safe than dropping $20 – $40 on a new one. Again, here is the link for the Bloom variety, a micro blender or mixer with a big punch.

Secondly, we’ve tried the ‘mini blenders’ like the Bullet’s, and the hand blenders, the top of the line so to speak, with the blenders… there are advantages to all, negatives as well. The Bloom mixer is great, now that we got a Quick Fix – Nano Mixer running again. Nice mixer for the small stuff, no need to plug anything in, or clean up pre-made cups etc. Magic Bullet style mixers were great for ‘bullet coffee’*.

Make Bullet Coffee

Thirdly, never heard of bullet coffee? Make some coffee in a Bodum or Colleti.. or choose your home Coffee Machine. See below. There are a few of the nano/hand mixers on the market, and Amazon can help you find one that fits your budget. Similarly, I’lll share links below so you can make your own ‘bullet coffee’.

*Bullet Coffee Recipe: Full Fat Butter, Raw Coconut Oil, espresso/coffee of choice – Nespresso Pods – Tokyo Vivalto Lungo, a few spins of the mixer, and you’re done.

In conclusion, check out the other quick fix articles, such as pool updates, super adhesives, outdoor lights and home improvements. I’ll probably post more about espresso machines, specifically the Nespresso machine. Stay tuned for more. Thanks!

April 14, 2023April 3, 2025

Halot Sky Break-fix

Creality Halot Sky Troubleshooting Break-fix

Creality Halot Sky – Resin Liner Change Out

Lab Work – Working Out The Bugs, Halot Sky Resin Printer

Before you begin you own 3D printing, journey, including purchasing a 3D printer, we need to discuss break-fix: the Halot Sky Break-fix which follows up on the LCD replacement just a few months ago.

First, it is crucial to understand how to maintain and troubleshoot printers. The same applies to addressing major printing issues, such as breaking down the entire printer to the board level. This also includes dealing with misprints, which can occur frequently. Proper care, cleaning, and resin management are essential tasks, including swapping resin liners and cleaning resin drips meticulously.

Liner Change

Liner Frame

New Liner

Attached are few sneak peek video clips and photos of our latest test prints and demos. We have some ‘real-world’ solutions coming soon. More creations on 3D software and 3D applications such as TinkerCad, Autodesk – AutoCAD, Creality (design) software, SolidWorks and more. We have started with TinkerCad and AutoCAD so that we can print prototypes and finish products within a few hours. Got any ideas? Need 3d prints? Leave us a comment or drop us a line on the Connect. Please include: file type, filament, sizes etc. Let’s see what we can come up with! As usual leave a comment below, let us know what you’re thinking?

September 25, 2022March 30, 2025

Galaxy Series Reset

Samsung Galaxy S21 5G Reset

Samsung Galaxy Reboot, Reset, and Unplug

Galaxy Reset or New – Privacy, Backups, Access and More

Tech And Tools – Samsung Updates

Before we delve into our dual-SIM experiments, let’s address the Galaxy Series Reset. I wanted to share some Samsung Tips and Tricks that could help you remove unnecessary apps from your Galaxy series devices.

Let’s take a quick look at the world of ‘debloating’. We’ve seen an abundance of pre-installed native apps on various platforms, OS, iOS etc. It feels like were back in the 90’s with PC sales. This trend applies to both Android and iOS devices. Until we have a user-friendly Linux based mobile OS or an open-source mobile kernel that allows us to customize our devices based on our needs, we’re stuck with what we have.

Mobile phones come loaded with Google bloatware and the same goes for iOS. When did Homekit, Health, Health Sensors and Siri start coming preinstalled and running constantly, making it difficult to disable them? It’s a challenge that won’t disappear with this Galaxy Series Reset. However, a I’ve been exploring new settings, OS-specific adjustments, and techniques to reduce bloat, limit Google access. Whether you have a new generation Samsung smartphone, Galaxy S22, 215g or 10, or a later model, we have some fresh methods to help you regain control of your device.

Diving right into it, whether you’ve got a new phone or not, a hard reset is required… Backup what you need and store it in a safe place. Most of the time it’s automatically saved somewhere, but we plan to take back that control and manually take steps to move the process forward. The time to de-bloat or de-bloat your device is right now.

Short Tutorial

Fresh Hard Reset on your existing phone or set up your new phone from scratch to begin the Galaxy Series reset. First, do not add or allow any Samsung, Google, or non-platform services that you do not want running regardless of their power status. A prominent red warning sign advises against signing in or allowing data transfer to any external services that are not native to the system or necessary.

NEXT, let’s disable all permissions for apps, stop and remove permissions and alerts for any unwanted apps. This is crucial as we do not endorse the input/output of such apps. Particularly those that are third-party, external, and considered bloat that may track and access your data without your permission. Turn off all unnecessary apps or system apps. Additionally, rearrange your apps as you see fit, grouping Samsung native apps that are essential together in a separate folder with other Samsung or Google apps. Do NOT enable cloud services, sign in, or log into any systems that you may want to use later on, at least not yet.turn on cloud services, sign in or log in to those (any) systems you will want later.. so not just yet.

Wrap Up – Debloat Your Android Device

Finally, it’s time to reintroduce existing settings. We want to re-import contacts and any bookmarks or Same for any bookmarks or saved ‘behavioral’ help settings. Must Have’s must go for the Google/Samsung requests to access the phone. These actions remain out of touch and are not allowed. Let’s clean up the home screen to your liking and add email accounts as well. Browser settings when your ready, no go on Chrome, Google or Samsung Internet, we use brave with all turned off…

DON’T FORGET THIS, don’t forget to make sure privacy settings meet your needs. As usual, leave a comment below and let us know what you’re thinking?

August 17, 2020April 3, 2025

EMAX Fix – Part 1

EMAX Repair Start

Hack-A-Thon Part 1

Lab Work – EMAX Fix – Part 1

On The Bench – TH2

Assess The Damage, Teardown

Back from the airfield, EMAX Fix – part 1. Be sure to check out the rebuild of in this series in the EMAX Quad Motor Rewire Video posted just before.

The airfield was clear, with no traffic, especially over in the helicopter and quadcopter area, so we were good to go. I unpacked the TH2 from its flight bag, got it out and up in the air with no problems. After a final check of the batteries and controller, we were ready to go. The weather was clear, and according to the flight radar, it was a clear day with mild temperatures and wind gusts of around 2-5mph. So, up we go!

Teardown

Reattach Antennae

Solder Antennae

Antennae Position

Lift is good, strong, and perhaps the easiest part of controlling the drone in flight. These drones when properly tuned , offer a smooth and vanilla flight experience. Be sure to check out the binding process using BetaFlight to bind/connect the flight controller to the remote.

There are a lot of things happening at once when flying the EMAX drones. You have to be mindful of your location, both as you ascend and descend. The flight went well, as planned/expected. I did a few loops, full power, turns, and hard bankings just to set the pace. Don’t forget to check the battery warning before your flight.

Power Leads, LED’s

Clip Leads

Resolder Leads

Clean Power Leads

Set Leads Properly

LED Seated

Now, at this point it was time to bring the TH2 home safely. As you can imagine, trouble came knocking. Damage report, minor issues included 2 LED strips out, severed antenna, severed power leads loose (+positive lead), and burned or malformed poly-frame. Don’t forget, this might be a good time to talk about light weight, super adhesives like Starbound – Super Fast. Which can be used, sparingly to tack down the led leads. We fixed the issues by clipping and prepping for new wires, ordering new LED strips and poly frame, replacing the antenna, re-soldering leads, and shrink-wrapping wires where applicable.

Similar Emax status update, time has moved on since the original article and I wanted to share additional Emax content where applicable. If you’re looking for Emax content, give these a shot (in reverse order from this postings date) – ReFit Emax Flight Controller, Emax Fix Part 1 (this article) and Part 2, Quadcopter Rewire, and the TinyHawk 2.

Wrap Up Part 1

Find EMAX parts, and more, through our Amazon Affiliate links, or visit the EMAX – US Store. For additional reference, check out the UAV Performance software used to update and run the EMAX TH and FRSky Taranis QX7s controller or more from the devs of Betaflight. Own it and have fun!

August 16, 2020April 3, 2025

EMAX Fix – Part 2

TinyHawk 2 Repair, In Progress

eMax Fix – Hack-A-Thon Part 2

Lab Work – eMax Fix – Part 2

On The Bench – EMAX Tiny Hawk 2

In this case, we are addressing the second half of the build. Just to clarify or set the stage we have returned from the airfield with the eMax TinyHawk 2 in disparate need of repair. this is eMax Fix – Part 2. This is not the first time, nor the last time we will have this drone on the bench for repair. If you are interested in getting into drone flying, check out more EMAX Drone Kits, Drones and more here.

Total Damage, Repair

While difficult, soldering in new, nano-sized parts on these micro drones requires serious patience. Looking back, the drone may have encountered a gust of wind or air under the drone motor poly-frame; it’s hard to say. The crash wasn’t as severe as others, but the drone ended up sustaining more damage than usual. We’ve had to replace a fan blade, FC, or motor from time-to-time, but nothing like this.

Power On, Visual and Manual Checks, Power Down

LED’s Confirmed

Power On Chimes

Remove Battery

Read eMax Part 1 if you would like. Also, be sure to watch the successful rebuild video for this series EMAX Quad Motor Rewire Video which was posted just before the wrap-up article.

Additionally, similar Emax status update, time has moved on since the original article and I wanted to share additional Emax content where applicable. If you’re looking for Emax content, give these a shot (in reverse order from this postings date) – Drone Accessories, ReFit Emax Flight Controller, and TinyHawk 2.

Wrapping up the final steps, we encountered a few minor issues: 2 LED strips out, the antenna, replace positive and negative power leads, same for two of the motor wires, and a burnt out/malformed poly-frame. To fix these issues, we clipped and prepped for new wires, ordered new LED strips and a new poly frame, replace the antenna, re-soldered leads, and shrink-wrapped wires where applicable.

August 14, 2020March 31, 2025

DJI Fix

Gimbal Issues

Gimbal Motor Replaced, DJI Fix in for now

Lab Work – DJI Fix

Back To The Field FIXED. After 25+ days

I received some good news today, and even better news is that I got my DJI Phantom 4 ProV2 back from the repair shop. After waiting for roughly 30 days, it’s finally time to fly! The shipping and return process was a hassle, but I leave that for another post. Today, I finally received the PH4 in the mail, so it’s time to fly. I now have the package in my possession and am working on unboxing the drone as the excitement builds. Let’s see if the drone gimbal is ready for flight.

Gimbal Issue Resolution

Does the drone fix meet your expectations? This is the follow up article on the DJI Gimbal Issues. Sounds like the gimbal assembly was replaced, not sure about the camera or if the assembly is self contained, one unit; meaning the camera, gimbal and housing are all considered one replaceable unit. How long would it take to get the drone fixed? ~30 days. ReviewDJI P4ProV2 specs, make sure its your drone and in working condition.

At the airfield we pushed the drone hard, making sure the motors were good to go, a number of gimbal checks, gimbal, motors and lens filter changes. We can wrap up with a positive day at the airfield, nothing of significance to report. Just photos and videos to clean up, and clean out.

Update to come, will include video of the airfield, highlight different maneuvers and views. Or just check the above post…

Now that we have your attention, let’s delve into the DJI Phantom 4, gimbal issues, flight testing at the airfield, video and photography capabilities, and more. The same for our other drones, learn-to-fly drones, racing drones as well as maintenance and tips and hacks to ensure these drones stay airborne.

July 19, 2020March 31, 2025

DJI Gimbal

DJI Phantom 4 Drone Gimbal Issues

DJI Blunders, Days Wasted Away

Lab Work – DJI Issues

Diagnosis: bleak… The DJI camera gimbal is inoperable, with the 45° gimbal tilt consistently shifting to the right of center a known issue straight from the factory…

DJI Gimbal: Alignment issues are present from the start. The gimbal is off-centered, indicating potential trouble with the camera and motor. This is a repost from Twitter prior to X, where I wanted to share a message that detailed a 24+ day duration from workshop-to-DJI process and back.

PH4 Gimbal Issues

Power Down

Repack Repair

Next, please keep in mind that ‘repair days’ are counted by the number of days the device is in repair. ‘days in repair’. Additionally, it is important to note down time includes DJI facility time – pre, post shipment and travel time. Whether it is in the US (possibly CA) or abroad (** the total # of repair days do not include ‘in transit’ days… times are not presented online in the DJI UI – status tracker **). Just be aware, times aren’t always accurate. If you prepare for this inaccuracy, or system latency, you’ll be better off with some of the repair ambiguity. This information may come as a disappointment, but it is good to be aware of it now. From a customer’s perspective, this experience was a nightmare.

Just to clarify, ‘Hey, we don’t count the time it takes for the device to travel to and from the customer and DJI, we apologize for any confusion. It is safe to assume that most of us, myself included, do not have a spare Phantom 4 ProV2 just sitting around. Perhaps the issue is related to a defective gimbal or defective gimbal motor(S). In this case, a brand new drone down for repair, back in the shop for a gimbal repair. Let’s bring this nightmare to a close and conclude the DJI Gimbal matter, as I would prefer not to encounter any issues straight from the factory. That said, let’s cut to the chase, here is a quick peek at the DJI Fix article some 30 days later.

Other Robot and Drone Repairs

Although this drone is under warranty or we may be ‘under-the-hood’ trying to fix this problem ourselves. That said, learn more about drone and robot repair? Read our series on the Maytronic Dolphin Down, in need of repair, under repair and Dolphin On. Excited to have the Dolphin robot back to work in the water doing work. Down time is money flying out the window, metaphorically speaking. More importantly, reducing your Return-On-Investment (ROI) – investment money to purchase a robot to do said work. Return higher than manual labor to keep the pool clean. I’d say this has huge potential for those pool owners looking for a little more in-the-pool time versus pool care and maintenance time. How about Apple repairs, M1 Chip repair, or MBP Batter Swap

Finally, as usual leave a comment below, let us know what you’re thinking?

September 5, 2018March 31, 2025

Learn & Apply

Are you Results Driven, How do you become Results Driven?

Being A Results Driven Organization

Methodology – Learn & Apply

First, Learn & Apply… What was your hypothesis? How did you test it? What did you learn from the test results? Any viable ideas? Did you retest and test again? Do you need to test once more?

Secondly, the challenging part arises: where do we apply our learnings? Do we cease learning? Do we work with others? The answer is certainly no. The question then becomes: when and where should you begin testing again once you’ve implemented a change, reduced redundancies, or enhanced system improvements? The time to learn is now. Or is it time to apply those findings elsewhere and make further adjustments to redundancies or system improvements? Does it sound as simple as that?

Thirdly, there are often more questions than answers, so it’s important to always strive to learn and apply new knowledge. If we stop learning, our progress may also come to a halt. Remember, you have the power to make a difference in your business, with your people, and for your brand. Lastly, we advocate for achievable changes and encourage continuous testing. We test, retest, and test again to learn from behaviors, analyze results, and effectively implement change.

As usual, please leave a comment below and let us know what you’re thinking!