Lab Work – Perhaps, the best way to show ‘work’ or work in progress; in most cases, the purpose is to highlight the struggle to find a solution, the test effort and the learning that takes place when fixing stuff. Or another way to share various phases of the problem solving process – hypothesize: test, learn and apply.

Ender Teardown

Let’s Kickoff the Rebuild With A Teardown

Ender Teardown, Rebuild – Start

Unpack - Ender Internals

Lab Work – Teardown Part 1

A few steps into the Ender Teardown – follow these steps to open the 3D printer housing or bottom hatch. Replace extruder wires, internal fan wires, jumpers etc. Check out the timeline below presented in editorial form.

Step One
Motherboard

Motherboard

Old Wires

Old Wires

Remove Hot Glue

Remove Hot Glue

Fan Ports

Fan Port

Rewrap

Rewrap

Reattach

Reattach

Power On

Power On

Next Steps, Step 2

Voila! The first phase (teardown) is complete, and  we are moving onto Rebuild Part 2, which will be more challenging. This part of the build will involve swapping the extruders from Bowden to Direct Drive and potentially replacing the back plate depending on the hardware and tools required. It’s important to note that the back plates are not identical and will need some adjustments. We plan to proceed with the swap and salvage the old plate. It shouldn’t be too difficult, especially now that we have completed part 1. Removing the hot glue can be tricky, but once you get past that and the screw, everything should go smoothly.

This seems like a good place to end. I will post another update on the tool set we used to complete the Ender Teardown. I have recently added a Klein driver set, a handy multitool to complement the new Tekprem Torx set. Check back soon for more updates in round two!

Street Fighter Returns

Any Street Fighter Fans Out There, Capcom or SNK?

Street Fighter 6(XBox/PC)

SF 30th Anniversary

Lab Work – Steam, XBox, VM Software, Street Fighter And More

It’s time… it’s time we embark on a new adventure, Street Fighter returns…

Systems Check: Parallels (checked), Windows 11 (checked), Steam (checked), Street Fighter… Street Fighter is up and running, first boot, and ready to go come Monday or Tuesday. It’s been about 20 years since my last play… Emulation and Steam are necessary now. Back in the day, I believe it was  Street Fighter – Capcom vs SNK during my undergrad years. I believe we are anticipating Street Fighter 6… I’m certain it will be fantastic. We will be playing the game on Xbox/PC (Asus Mini or MacOS Parallels {Win11 or Linux distribution}). Whichever runs better than the other or vice versa.

Drone Accessories
Steam Install

Steam Install

Steam Download

Steam Download

Street Fighter Load

Street Fighter Load

StreetFighter FLavors

Street Fighter Flavors

xBox Controllers

xBox Controllers

The point here is that I’ll get to it. Street Fighter Returns. It’s been over 20 years since I played my favorite game of all time. The first few were of the ‘all-time variety’. I started as a button smasher, then progressed to novice, and eventually became a skilled player. I’m not sure if I would call myself a gamer, but for the purposes of this post, I was the closest thing to the ‘idea Street Fighter gamer’… Perhaps it’s more nostalgia than practicality that gives it its legendary status.

Anyhow, I think we will tune up the Asus mini, and give it a go over the next few days or weeks. We have guitar, printer, and ‘on the bench’ fixes coming soon… Why not add a college favorite to the mix? We can also cover the Asus mini, MacOS Parallels (running Win11 and Linux) while we are at it.

Max Neo Back Plate

Wrong Parts, Wrong Parts Received

Back Plate and Rail Wheels

Old Rail Cart

Lab Work – Working Through The Challenges Associated With 3d Printers, Printing, Upgrades and More

Relieved my Max Neo Back Plate, the long awaited parts are on the truck this morning

Quick update, all the parts needed to update the Ender 3 Neo Max to run TPU filament through the new, upgraded parts are in. They are within arm’s reach and ready to be installed to complete the initial TPU build.

Unfortunately, I want to go on record and share a warning. I will post the tear down at some-point. So, the essence of the warning is to be careful what you order. Makes sense, right? Cross reference and cross-check OEM parts, refer t your 3D build, and ensure fit and compatibility.
 
Build progress has stopped because we have the wrong assembly cart, ideally we should have the Max Neo Back Plate, or back plate. The plate configuration (proper mounting holes, size, shape) is off. If you’re new to the site, check out the Max Neo challenges in the Output archives… For those who just want to see the TPU rebuild go here, but understand his – we had a few prints that went sideways. By sideways, I mean the extruder was found buried in filament, grinding away at the build plate.
 
What’s Next
Ultimately causing a meltdown, and plate parts found elsewhere etc. Prior to the blow out, we have a few successful TPU test builds are in hand, but are error pron. More like the standard build (Ender 3 Neo Max Bowden Extruder setup, standard build from the factory) minus the upgrade, if you can believe that. Please note that sometimes you have to ‘break’ things to truly figure out the right path or change paths, so to speak.
 
Anyhow, not to belabor the point here, but, we have all the necessary parts to start rebuilding this machine with the correct parts and extruder. This will allow us to build more ‘things’ with an array of filaments.

TPU Direct Drive Support

TPU Is The Goal, TPU Direct Drive Support Build

New Assembly, Drive Drive Extruder, Support Back Plate and Rail Wheels

Lab Work – Building and Buying Parts On The Supply List

…A few more days folks, and we can start working on the TPU Direct Drive Support build. A new extruder support plate for the Ender 3 Neo Max is on its way. Not on back order, but waiting the last piece before the rebuild can begin.

Before we proceed with installing the new parts, we discovered an issue with the back support plate (including wheels and bolts) being misaligned. After the printer ‘meltdown’ a few months ago, you can see the results of that print here. The final piece needed for the rebuild is this support back plate. There is too much play and space between the assembly and guide rails. I don’t recall there being any movement between the parts. I would expect there to be little to no wiggle room in those items. However, I can almost light off the assembly housing, extruder, and back plate from the guide rails under tension. This  was a clear sign that it was time to replace the guide rails under tension. think there is no or very little ‘wiggle room’/tolerance in those items. However, I can almost lift off the assembly housing, extruder, and back plate from the guide rails under tension. This was a clear sign that it was time to replace the support plate, bolts, and wheels to ensure an improved upgrade and fix.

New Build

Anyhow, all the pieces and parts have been removed from the initial purchase. We will proceed with the TPU Direct Drive Support build. So, for picture sake, we’ve got the frame, base, and guide rails and that’s it. All parts have been removed for the moment. ~It’s been about 3 weeks now, awaiting the OEM support plate. Ultimately, we are looking at a clean rebuild using OEM parts with a few upgrades (direct drive, replacing the Bowden extruder) to allow for TPU, Wood/Bamboo, Carbon, Metal, Organics and more.

System upgrades might come later, with the goal being more power to compensate for the downforces on the extruder head in the direct drive case. Caution, there are differences between the Direct-drive and Bowden extruders, obviously advantages and disadvantages for both… maintenance and care being the most complex for the direct-drive variety.

More Filament Types

The goal with the direct-drive ‘pivot’ is to improve heat, extrusion pressure, retraction and expand the range of filament materials. For the sake of this article, I will focus on the updated advantages and disadvantages. The comparison is between more materials, heat, pressure, and variety versus maintenance which can be a lot. I personally use the break/fix method, as parts are less expensive to replace in the printer ecosystem. It may not always be the wised choice, but sometimes breaking something is necessary to understand the machine or engineering behind it. In conclusion, having spare parts on hand is helpful. Build yourself a parts bin and consider parting out used or gently used components to reduce out-of-pocket expenses. Learn how to maintain and reuse your gadgets. Remember to fail fast when working on such equipment. Short-term expenses for break-fix situations can save money in the long run when dealing with 3D printers, drones, computers, and more

Final thoughts: Parts can help you build yourself a parts bin. Need updates, board firmware, and Slicers? Download those items here for Creality Software Support.  Part out used and gently used parts to cut down on out-of-pocket expenses. Learn how to maintain and reuse your gadgets. Don’t forget to fail fast, when working on such equipment. Short-term break fix expenses go along way when dealing with 3D printers, drones, computers and more.

Disposal Problem

Food and Debris Stuck, Fix A Disposal Problem

No Grind, Time For A New Disposal

Disposal - Internals

Lab Work – Emergency Fix

A few weeks ago, had a minor issue with the sink disposal. The picture here is speaks volumes about the problem we encountered. 

Once the problem was identified, it was clear that we needed to replace the disposal unit. Upon closer inspection, we found that rust had caused significant damage internally. I had to remove the seal and screws to crack open the top of the disposal unit. Honestly, I  was surprised by how worn out the unit was. It was definitely time for a replacement, and were fortunate to have discovered the issue when we did.

Disposal Parts and Install
New Install

New Disposal Install

Debris Filter

Debris Filter

Clean Teeth

Clean Teeth

Interior View

Interior View

Next, the title, “Disposal Problem ‘no grind’, time to replace it a new title. Unfortunately, the 1/2 replacement had a short in the wiring. Being a conscientious consumer, I decided to upgrade to the new InSinkErator 3/4 hp, which you can see here. It was a smart choice as it was the same brand and fit perfectly in the cabinet space. You can see the final installation below. These disposal units are usually plug and play, assuming that piping and plugs are readily available and identical. For this reason, I stuck with the same brand, hoping for seamless setup.

Next, I didn’t want to hack away at the existing piping, cabinetry etc, just want to maintain and in this case boost the output. You’ll see a slight increase in HP, a plastic outer case/shell and a sparkly new (newly cleaned) lower cabinet for it’s foreseeable future. What a mess. Moving along, fix in place, watch what you put down the sink etc. Remember to check the sealant between the disposal and connector. We had a little leakage that has now been remedied. Not bad, virtually the same machine, replaced, tools – pliers, pipe wrench, flathead, pipe tape and a small bin in case of water leaks or intrusion in the future.

Like the quick fix format? Check out other quick fix content here such as this disposal problems fix. Learn how to descale your coffee equipment – pots and machines, fix a toilet float, clean and fixpool filter housing and filter problem or try a cell phone charging hack… Check them out!

Finally, hopefully (fingers-crossed), you can learn a thing or two. Be sure to unplug disposals, have some extra ‘shop’ towels to mop up excess water or worse, sink goo. Make sure local power outlets are off and to be safe, turn off water where applicable.

TPU Update

TPU Upgrades and Updates

New Assembly and Drive Drive Extruder

Creality Extruder, Full Assembly

Lab Work – Bolt On Upgrades

We are updating the extruder – TPU Update. Adding a bolt-on direct drive upgrade and replacing the Series 3 full assembly body.

The TPU update is a go. First, PLA is great. TPU is better for certain applications. However, we start with PLA. If you need flexibility over rigidity it is assumed that you want to test TPU filament. First, we will replace the existing assembly body on the MAX NEO and bolt on the new extruder to address the TPU issues*. TPU requires more force to drive the flexible filament through the assembly and out the nozzle. The direct drive will help with ‘refinement’ and focusing on pushing and pulling the filament more accurately and precisely.

Creality Accessories
Unboxing

Unboxing

Drive Motor

Drive Motor

Assembly

Assembly

Remove Extruder

Remove Extruder

Unscrew The Fans

Unscrew the Fans

Assembly

Assembly

Again, in terms of next steps and the TPU Update, the update is not a *requirement,. However, after seeing enough test prints, it’s time to make the switch. Here is the bolt on solution from Creality for the Ender 3-Series, MAX NEO. Moreover, what do I mean by ‘requirement’ above? In my opinion, it would be extremely difficult to print TPU printables using a Bowden drive. I’ve tried, and it doesn’t work well. Finally, the Bowden drive doesn’t provide enough filament force and direct force to the filament through the hot end, hence the need for a direct drive motor. So, I want to emphasize that there’s no need to buy a new machine for TPU printing. Simply, do the swap and you can print both TPU and other high-temperature filaments as well.

Quick update: since this post was shared, we have received the parts for the TPU updates, allows us to begin the direct drive build. TPU filaments and prints can now be done without the necessary upgrades. Let’s get into the build and upgrade action! Side note, before we move off the direct drive action, I’d like to share other Halot updates including the Halot LCD fix and other break-fixes when adding a resin printer to your arsenal.

Stay tuned for additional photos and mini-clips covering the installation soon. In the meantime, here is a brief unboxing and assembly tear-down. Thanks!

Candy Crush Soda Saga

Play Candy Crush Soda Saga by King

A Sugar Rush

Sugar Crush Soda Saga

Lab Work – Teeing Up Candy Crush Soda Saga

Have a few extra minutes to solve puzzles and enjoy some candy? Candy Crush might be the perfect game for those game time moments!

Candy Crush Soda Saga by King is the sequel to the original Candy Crush Saga. I started playing Sugar at the beginning of 2023, fitting it in between sessions of Factorio and Clash Of Clans. Candy Crush is a fantastic puzzle game that will appeal to fans of Connect Four, Othello, Tetris, or paper crossword puzzles. It requires quick thinking and reflexes. Sugar offers great game play and animations. Personally, I prefer Soda over the previous versions of Candy Crush because it feels more polished. Factorio remains a favorite desktop game of mine, while CoC Clash Of Clans and Candy Crush, both mobile games, have been put on hold for now.

More Soda Saga
Lvl 55

Lvl 55

Play Again

Play Again

Play On

Play On

COC Dilemma 

Let me explain further, in CoC in Clash Of Clans, I’ve been playing for over 10 years. I reached TH15, and maxed out before the wall max release, and I’ve tried out a few new characters. The game’s lifecycle has run it’s course for me. As for Candy Crush, the dragon stages can be challenging. It can feel like you might not be able to pass them without making in-game purchases.

Now, I’m sure there are plenty of people out there who have completed the dragon stages, but I have not. Kudos to those who have. I might need to do a little internet research, I guess. However, I liken the experience to my childhood, playing Gyromite, Castlevania or even Super Mario; and you can’t get out of the rut. I feel like I just can’t ‘beat’ a particular area/stage/puzzle etc. So, without going down the rabbit hole, what I tend to do is set the game down, uninstall until it’s time to pick it up again. I know brutal cycle… moreover, I tend to pick up the game every other month or so, a new install is a must. Perhaps it would be easier to just pick up with the dragon area…

Not a fan of Candy Crush game? No problem, let’s explore some other options before we finish up. How about the game of Solitaire? Go old school and grab a deck of cards, let’s play. Or maybe you’re up for a game of World War 3 play with friends like we did here, or take on the challenge of conquering the world alone. Not into ‘Risk-like’ games? How about trying out D&D? Check out Dungeon Boss – Revised. Still not interested? What about Clash of Clans?

In-game screenshots to follow. It’s been a month or two since my last play-through. Stay tuned for my gaming experience in the next few weeks!

Ender Upgrade Adhesion Issue

Adhesion Issues, Bed Temp

Latest Ender Chaos

Ender Issue 26

Lab Work – Humor Is The Only Way Sometimes

The Lead, 6 hour+ print chaos; let’s address and tackle these Ender Upgrade Adhesion Issues. We will put the Halot Sky Resin vat cover issue, on hold and focus on the Ender 3 Neo Max bed adhesion problems. It has taken over 5 hours to troubleshoot, with fans running and a cooling bed plate. There are numerous issues to tackle!

Let’s Troubleshoot
Extruder Pressed Down

Extruder Pressed Down

Bed Inspection

Bed Inspection

Extruder Removed

Extruder Removed

Sensor Globule

Sensor Globule

blank

Heating Element

blank

Close Up

Track Bands Off

Track Bands Off

Missing Tension Knobs

Missing Tension Knobs

Extruder Into Plate

Extruder Pushing Plate

Current Status, Visual Check

Secondly, we are missing hand-tension screws and tension belts. There is a literal mess of PLA covering 60% or more of the printer, extrusion head, bed and assembly. Fortunately, I walked in post-print as a tension belt was in the process of removing itself from the printer head.

That concludes the visual inspection portion of the Ender Upgrade Adhesion Issue. Moving forward, we have the printer head back together, PLA cleaned off, tension belts applied. Next and not captured below, replace adhesion plate, tension screws, and restart the machine for calibration. Look for update posts here in the next day or two.

What is the purpose of the print? I wanted to put a cover on the Halot Sky (V1) Resin vat, but I am not sure where the original cover might have gone – it could have been misplaced, broken, scrapped or lost. More importantly, the print itself was lost. From the perspective of the ‘pressman’, the printable seems to have failed to adhere to the build plate. After checking the settings, it was discovered that the ironing was off, and the printer head was buried into the print plate. This is not good for the printer or its parts. Additionally, there was a concerning sound of tension belts releasing and printer head/plate friction. However, the print fix is currently being fixed, and we will provide an update at a later date or time.

Finally, we replace build plate, hand screws, springs, restart/update firmware and calibration.

Ender Filament and Adhesion Issues

Filament Challenges and More

Print Plate Surface Adhesion and Heating Issues

3D Printer Adhesion Issues with PLA and TPU

Lab Work – Ender Issues Defined

A few more weeks of Ender issues…

Ender Filament and Adhesion Issues, are causing a delay in the TPU Neo Max upgrade progress. I will be sharing more Ender ‘lite’ issues, as we continue the TPU trial and face filament challenges. The filament change was primarily for lab work on bait designs and future locking mechanisms where TPU will be more appropriate. Despite this tangent, core printing has not ceased, I am still facing challenges with PLA.

Ender Filament and Adhesion Issues

There are countless issues that seem infinite at the moment. Everything from  Creality Software to Ultimaker Cura, Sonic Pad issues, filament running temp, and new surface temperature problems… we have a lot of cover. I will break these down into 2 or 3 new posts over the next week. We will also revisit surface adhesion. Surface adhesion and surface temperature seem to be causing most of the issues on the Ender Max Neo. I must admit, tinkering doesn’t always result in perfect prints, even 60% to 80% of the time. I won’t argue, I’ll just focus on testing… the more runs, the better chance we have of increasing that 60% likelihood of successful prints.

Pictures will follow,  as they say, a picture is worth a thousand words. The pictures will be shared to specifically cover thickness, fragility and test prints. Let’s get to printing!

Ender 3 Max Neo Filament

Printer Base Stabilization, Adhesion and Print Heights

Ender 3 Max Neo Filament Solutions

Filament Everywhere

Lab Work – TPU Speed and Cycle Times

For this article on the Ender 3 Max Neo Filament, a typical print cycle might run between 2-5 hours, possibly more. While the standard range has been 2-5 hours, we are now looking at 12 – 16 hours. Recently, we have extended the top maximum run times to just under 12 hours for our test models. Surprisingly, both print tests resulted in the a mess.

For the record, a paper towel holder caused this issue twice. Upon initial observation, as the prints moved vertically (up the y-axis), the printing quality deteriorated. Somewhere between the 4″ and 5″ mark, both test prints went awry. 

I’m starting to think there is shaking issue with the table or even a stabilization issue where the printer. is located. Both issues might be addressed by printing the base slices, holder ends, screws, rods, and washers in a single print. These items should be printed separately to attach the towel roll and the rod. The rod that is slung between the holders can be printed in a secondary or tertiary step, This is mitigation issue number one, or we could address the stabilization directly. The printers are currently positioned where they stand, so there is not much I can do to move them around.

Once I received the new filament, we will print the rod. If it works, great. If not, then step two will be more tedious. The issue is mostly a space problem in the office. The filament should arrive later today, and I will post a quick summary once I finish printing the rod slice, assuming it is successful.

Ironically, a similar issue was occurring when I ran TPU through the machine. So we can conclude the Ender 3 Max Neo Filament post with this. Although I don’t think they are related, adhesion was the issue with TPU. Which we will address in a future post once we determine the correct nozzle temps, print speed, and adhesion setup. I have heard/read about using adhesion spray or glue stick. Another day, we will tackle those 3d printer issues/phantom printing phenomenon.