Lab Work Archives

TPU Upgrade Process

Install New Direct Drive, Build Plate Upgrades

TPU Action – Upgrade Process

Max Neo Upgrades: The Upgrade Process, Part of the TPU Action Series

Now, let’s discuss the Creality Max Neo 3D Printer Upgrade – unboxing, teardown, install of upgrade parts. Our goal is to improve TPU scalability and production quality. As a side note, we received a refurbished Max Neo and will cover the PETG settings and troubleshooting process in our next article.

First, we have already discussed the reasons for upgrading the parts and quality benefits it brings. We have purchased the necessary parts for the updates to increase our success rates. Now, let’s move on to the physical upgrade.

Unbox Upgrades

Let’s get started, shall we? We have got our boxes and can officially begin the TPU Upgrade process. Continuing, all parts have been unboxed, including the new extruder with direct drive that features an easy-to-install quick connect with locks on the print head. Additionally, we have the rail cart for bolting the extruder to the rail and powering it with the axis motors. Next, we have the new silent motherboard, which is necessary for installing the Creality Sprite Extruder Pro kit. Secondly, we have the new bed plate ready to go. Once the process is complete, we will test the machine first without the upgrade and then with it to ensure everything is printing smoothly.

Unbox Parts, Printer Teardown and Disassembly References

Motherboard

WiFi Box 2

Sprite Extruder Pro Kit

Extruder Pro

Power Down

Unplug

Prep Screen

Disconnect Motors

Starting the TPU upgrade process? Let’s begin by removing all power cords. If you have a Wifi 2.0 Box or Sonic Pad, those should also be powered down and their cords removed. I prefer to start fresh with no cords. Now, we have our tech tools. I will post a link to the shopping list following this post. If you have the original set of tools provided by Creality at purchase, those will work just fine.

Begin Teardown, Be Careful and Take Your Time

Let’s dismantle the printer by taking apart the extruder and the extruder rail cart. After removing a few bolts, we should have the printing area cleared. It’s worth noting here, this printer has had mods previously making the direct drive easily accessible. For more information on the original direct drive build you can refer to the Ender Teardown and Rebuild – 5 Part Series. In the series, you will see the filament clean up, power cables treatment, e-touch and cable connections from the extruder to the board. Additionally, bolt removal, cart removal, and extruder change. The printing area should now be free of extruder parts and the rail cart

Let’s Keep Going

Look around the 3D printer frame, specifically the drivers, those should be unclipped as well. I also like to disconnect the screen here. There is a clip on the back: the ribbon connector can be unclipped and set aside. Now, gently lift and turn the machine clockwise, placing the machine on its right side or screen side (which has been removed for this exact reason).

The top screw does not need to be removed here; it is one of 4 or 5 screws that hold the motherboard to the base Start by unscrewing the right-hand side first (motherboard side), being careful to unplug the 0.10 A computer fan clip, and then move on to the left side (power side).

Next, Ribbons, cords, and wires of various shades and colors may have shifted around a bit, especially in this case, as the printer was previously upgraded. Therefore, electrical wires or shield tape may be wound tightly. Be gentle with the cover screws, as they will be used again in approximately 15 – 30 minutes.

Quick Recap

Take a look around, assume if you have tilted the machine clockwise on it’s side by roughly 90 degrees and removed the screws. On the left, we are examining power management, and on the right, control.

Equally important, a visual inspection will reveal hot glue on all or most of the motherboard connectors, depending on the condition of the machine.

If the machine is new or refurbished, hot glue is common, so don’t be alarmed!

This is to be expected for Creality machines. We will begin removing the glue using a spudger, hemostats and/or gloved hand. In this process, we start from right to left, starting with the screen connector (rainbow ribbon), the top connector marked GV IN G OUT, the mini two-wire connectors (grey and the black axis wires), the fan wires (yellow and blue), and the red, yellow and black harness. Ignore the power wires for now, we will be address those in the third step. Next, we will move to the top of the board to disconnect the X, Y, Z and E black wire harnesses. You’re almost there, you can do this!

Disassemble Extruder and Motherboard

Internal Fan

Unscrew Power Cover

Power Unit

Unscrew Housing

Motherboard

Hot Glue Removal

Start Right-to-left

Disconnect Cables

Fans & Power

Disconnect Power

All Connections

Remove Board

Let’s move on to the green locks next. Using a flat head screwdriver, start from right to left to unscrew and remove the red and black wires. Voila! We are now 50% complete. The glue removal process usually takes the longest, making it challenging to navigate the board space. Let’s unscrew the board from the frame (unscrew the two bolts on the front), leaving the last screw on the top, removing the top from the frame. Unscrew the motherboard and set it aside for safekeeping or for use in another refurbished printer in the future. Take a moment to check around the frame, organize the screws and bolts (I recommend using a piece of paper and a Sharpie). Draw a box label it, and tape the hardware screws securely.

Motherboard and Extruder Installation

Straightaway, let’s start by removing the new motherboard from its package, if you have not already done so, and placing it into the motherboard (control) space. Additionally, make sure to safely connect the USB and MicroSD connectors on the board first, then align the board with the appropriate screw mounts on the board. Once the screws are in place, the board should sit firmly in place, secured and ready to go!

Reassemble 3D Printer, Upgrade Reference

Attach New Board

Left-to-right

+ and –

Fans and Motors

Upper Cables

Seat Cables

Okay, in reverse, the TPU Upgrade process continues with the new Sprite Extruder raw wire ends. Start by securing the green motherboard locks first, moving from left to right. The power from the power unit should be on the side of the board, with alternative red/back wires. Make sure to read the labels to ensure the correct landing spot for those power wires. Next, connect the yellow/blue fan and the red, yellow, and black wires just below the fan connector. Moving right replace the x-, y- , z-, TB, TH, and GV IN G OUT connections. Now, connect the screen ribbon. Double-check all fittings and secure the green locks on the board to ensure a snug fit.

Finally, when working on the motherboard, let’s replace the screws on the power unit side carefully. Run the wires through the notched metal railing and secure the front bolts for the control cover, bottom screws, and the top screws. This is a critical area where you must exercise caution, as the cables can easily break. Take your time here.

Post Installation Checks, Screws, Belts and More

Continuing on, secure the Pro Extruder Kit. Lift, turn, and place the printer in its center. All wires, ribbons and connectors are ready for the new drive. Next, install the extruder and fit it to the assembly cart. Thirdly, connect the e-touch ribbon cable, seat the cable so that is snug. Fourthly, seat the red hot wire creating a connection between the hot end and the extruder. It may have a tight fit, so now is the time to place the wire while the extruder is loose on the cart. Secure the extruder to the cart mounting point by placing the screws and tightening them down. Moreover, ensure a secure and tight connection, firmly setting the drive in place!

Next, if you machine has an E-touch, screw it to the provided mounting hardware. Ensure a good fit by checking the orientation and making sure the extruder card fits snug on the rail. Securely attach the axis cables or rubber power drive belts. The belts slides into place on the backside of the assembly cart). This should be loose from the if dismantling process. Firmly, attach axis cables, or rubber power drive belts. Undoubtedly, the belts slide into place (two slots cut out on the assembly cart) on the backside, if you remember during the teardown process. Next, loosen the X/Y axis drive belts using the red knobs, one on the front and the other on the right side. Now, tighten those knobs by turning them clockwise to apply tension to the belts and cart.

Extruder, Power On and Level

Seat Extruder

Power On

Level

Replace drive connectors, which are key for stable linear and vertical movement. Reference tags will indicate connectors for controlling the x and y drive motors. Install the extruder ribbon by tucking it behind the two black plastic static tabs located just above the connector saddle and ribbon locks.

Now the real test begins… the TPU Upgrade process continues to the next round! The series progresses, read more about TPU Post Processing or go back to the beginning with TPU Action. Finally, we will cover the initial settings, slicer, accessories and final settings in the next installment, so stick around. If you’re new to the series you can revisit upgrade parts on our affiliate shopping area and review pricing, upgraded hardware reviews, accessories and filament essential for this build. Alternatively, you can skip ahead, review article upgrade parts and accessories in the series opening.

Street Fighter Returns

Any Street Fighter Fans Out There, Capcom or SNK?

Street Fighter 6(XBox/PC)

Lab Work – Steam, XBox, VM Software, Street Fighter And More

It’s time… it’s time we embark on a new adventure, Street Fighter returns…

Systems Check: Parallels (checked), Windows 11 (checked), Steam (checked), Street Fighter… Street Fighter is up and running, first boot, and ready to go come Monday or Tuesday. It’s been about 20 years since my last play… Emulation and Steam are necessary now. Back in the day, I believe it was Street Fighter – Capcom vs SNK during my undergrad years. I believe we are anticipating Street Fighter 6… I’m certain it will be fantastic. We will be playing the game on Xbox/PC (Asus Mini or MacOS Parallels (Win11 or Linux distribution)). Whichever runs better than the other or vice versa.

Drone Accessories

Steam Install

Street Fighter Load

Street Fighter Flavors

xBox Controllers

The point here is that I’ll get to it. Street Fighter Returns. It’s been over 20 years since I played my favorite game of all time. The first few were of the ‘all-time variety’. I started as a button smasher, then progressed to novice, and eventually became a skilled player. I’m not sure if I would call myself a gamer, but for the purposes of this post, I was the closest thing to the ‘idea Street Fighter gamer’… Perhaps it’s more nostalgia than practicality that gives it its legendary status.

Before we close, here’s more on Street Fighter II Turbo, other games like Steelrising and NES Kung Fu. Anyhow, I think we will tune up the Asus mini, and give it a go over the next few days or weeks. We have guitar, printer, and ‘on the bench’ fixes coming soon… Why not add a college favorite to the mix? We can also cover the Asus mini, MacOS Parallels (running Win11 and Linux) while we are at it.

Solitaire Wins Vs. Tosses

Play Solitaire

Wins (Standar/Vegas Style) vs Tosses (Losses)

Lab Work – Solitaire

Wins Vs. Tosses, Vegas or Standard, Solitaire is a great game to cover.

We will cover this topic in depth in a future post. However, for now, I wanted to provide a sneak peek. I have recorded 4 weeks or more of Solitaire games, noting the number of tosses and wins. In some upcoming sessions, I will compare Vegas (3 card draw/flip) to standard (single card draw/flip). Solitaire. The results are interesting so far, with the numbers are starting to even out. Currently, wins are +2 over tosses.

I have a collection of cards, which are typical convenient store card packs. I have a total of 5 packs, 4 standard Bicycle decks, in poker size and one set that is waterproof (you can find Hoyle Waterproof cards). These are handy for the various places I tend to play, such as out by the pool, on a coffee-stained cutting mat, or on any number of other flat surfaces like the kitchen table. It’s especially helpful to have the waterproof deck in a pinch.

Wins Vs Tosses

Shuffle

Ruffle

5th Game

Water Proof

Yes, I call it, Solitaire Wins Vs. Tosses. Yes, the tosses are losses… The point is to speed up the game, switch decks, and increase the number of shuffles – to 3 to 7, with closer to 7 shuffles yielding better results. I also want to note that I reset the card deck after a certain number of tosses. These numbers might be added in a future post as well.

Good luck, don’t forget, tosses over losses, wins over tosses.

Not a fan of Solitaire? No problem, let’s explore some other options before we finish up. Puzzles? How about the Candy Crush game series? Or maybe you’re up for a game of World War 3 play with friends like we did here, or take on the challenge of conquering the world alone. Not into ‘Risk-like’ games? How about trying out D&D? Check out Dungeon Boss – Revised. Still not interested? What about Clash of Clans?

Max Neo Back Plate

Wrong Parts, Wrong Parts Shipped And Received

Back Plate and Rail Wheels

Lab Work – Working Through The Challenges Associated With 3d Printers, Printing, Upgrades and More

Relieved my Max Neo Back Plate, the long awaited parts are on the truck this morning

Quick update, all the parts needed to update the Ender 3 Neo Max to run TPU filament through the new, upgraded parts are in. They are within arm’s reach and ready to be installed to complete the initial TPU build.

Unfortunately, I want to go on record and share a warning. I will post the tear down at some-point. So, the essence of the warning is to be careful what you order. Makes sense, right? Cross reference and cross-check OEM parts, refer t your 3D build, and ensure fit and compatibility.

Build progress has stopped because we have the wrong assembly cart, ideally we should have the Max Neo Back Plate, or back plate. The plate configuration (proper mounting holes, size, shape) is off. If you’re new to the site, check out the Max Neo challenges in the Output archives… For those who just want to see the TPU rebuild go here, but understand his – we had a few prints that went sideways. By sideways, I mean the extruder was found buried in filament, grinding away at the build plate.

What’s Next

Ultimately causing a meltdown, and plate parts found elsewhere etc. Prior to the blow out, we have a few successful TPU test builds are in hand, but are error pron. More like the standard build (Ender 3 Neo Max Bowden Extruder setup, standard build from the factory) minus the upgrade, if you can believe that. Please note that sometimes you have to ‘break’ things to truly figure out the right path or change paths, so to speak.

Anyhow, not to belabor the point here, but, we have all the necessary parts to start rebuilding this machine with the correct parts and extruder. This will allow us to build more ‘things’ with an array of filaments.

Practice 20 Mins A Day

Learn The Guitar, How To Play Videos; Just 20 Minutes A Day

Nose To The Grind

Lab Work – Grinding Out Practice Time, Self-Improvement

Today, I added strumming the guitar ‘guitar grind’ back in the mix, hence the focus on 20 mins a day. Grind you say?

Yes, the grind. I’ve never been musically inclined, nor formally taught, trained or had a significant amount of time to dedicate to the craft. So, in order to chip away at this theory of the ‘grind’… today, I’ve found 20 – 30 minutes (per day) to pick up the guitar and learn something; anything. Whether it be lessons, chord progression, song practice, music theory, finger position, scales, strumming and more. Like I said, just trying to chip away at the rust, if there was any rust built up over the years.

Check out my recent post on the D’Addario medium celluloid picks. I’ve found them to be useful when dealing with finger slippage, mostly due to sweat. I also added Vincent’s post on 50+ Easy Guitar Songs for Every Beginner. As a beginner, novice I am. Not horrible might be away to describe the journey.

Online Resources, Content Creators

The lessons and songs plays nicely in the sandbox, guitar in hand, for 20 minutes a day. They cover “I Wanna Be There” by Blessed Union Of Souls, “Three Little Birds” by Bob Marley, “3am” by Matchbox 20, “Learning To Fly” by Tom Petty and “Comfortably Numb” by Pink Floyd. I wouldn’t say this was easy for me as a struggling novice. Additionally, Vincent’s collection includes other online talent with distinction – a quick search, and you too can play along with @Guitar Zoom – for Chord Work via Steve Stine, @MartyMusic – for the “3am” lesson by Marty Swartz, and “The Secret to Strumming Learning To Fly” by Tom Petty, via @Lauren Bateman.

So, what am I getting at here? What’s the catch? I’ll leave you with this: Whether it’s learning the guitar outright, capo’s or guitar accessories, notes, formal music lessons, finger positions etc. from a music perspective, or general reading, try it for 20/30 mins a day. Dedicate the time to developing this habit, a new habit. Good habits are hard to find, and that’s the value in what we’re targeting in this post. Yes, this post is specific to guitar learning, and may be more about ‘writing’ for me, writers block or fatigue. I’m a firm believer in finding new skills, making new connections and pushing myself further than the day prior. Final note, I’ve had access to a guitar since college, over 20 years ago. It’s time to pick it up, tune it, and start learning today.

Good luck with your own activity to start today, grind away

TPU Direct Drive Support

TPU Is The Goal, TPU Direct Drive Support Build

New Assembly, Drive Drive Extruder, Support Back Plate and Rail Wheels

Lab Work – Building and Buying Parts On The Supply List

…A few more days folks, and we can start working on the TPU Direct Drive Support build. A new extruder support plate for the Ender 3 Neo Max is on its way. Not on back order, but waiting the last piece before the rebuild can begin.

Before we proceed with installing the new parts, we discovered an issue with the back support plate (including wheels and bolts) being misaligned. After the printer ‘meltdown’ a few months ago, you can see the results of that print here. The final piece needed for the rebuild is this support back plate. There is too much play and space between the assembly and guide rails. I don’t recall there being any movement between the parts. I would expect there to be little to no wiggle room in those items. However, I can almost light off the assembly housing, extruder, and back plate from the guide rails under tension. This was a clear sign that it was time to replace the guide rails under tension. think there is no or very little ‘wiggle room’/tolerance in those items. However, I can almost lift off the assembly housing, extruder, and back plate from the guide rails under tension. This was a clear sign that it was time to replace the support plate, bolts, and wheels to ensure an improved upgrade and fix.

New Build

Anyhow, all the pieces and parts have been removed from the initial purchase. We will proceed with the TPU Direct Drive Support build. So, for picture sake, we’ve got the frame, base, and guide rails and that’s it. All parts have been removed for the moment. ~It’s been about 3 weeks now, awaiting the OEM support plate. Ultimately, we are looking at a clean rebuild using OEM parts with a few upgrades (direct drive, replacing the Bowden extruder) to allow for TPU, Wood/Bamboo, Carbon, Metal, Organics and more.

System upgrades might come later, with the goal being more power to compensate for the downforces on the extruder head in the direct drive case. Caution, there are differences between the Direct-drive and Bowden extruders, obviously advantages and disadvantages for both… maintenance and care being the most complex for the direct-drive variety.

More Filament Types

The goal with the direct-drive ‘pivot’ is to improve heat, extrusion pressure, retraction and expand the range of filament materials. For the sake of this article, I will focus on the updated advantages and disadvantages. The comparison is between more materials, heat, pressure, and variety versus maintenance which can be a lot. I personally use the break/fix method, as parts are less expensive to replace in the printer ecosystem. It may not always be the wised choice, but sometimes breaking something is necessary to understand the machine or engineering behind it. In conclusion, having spare parts on hand is helpful. Build yourself a parts bin and consider parting out used or gently used components to reduce out-of-pocket expenses. Learn how to maintain and reuse your gadgets. Remember to fail fast when working on such equipment. Short-term expenses for break-fix situations can save money in the long run when dealing with 3D printers, drones, computers, and more

Final thoughts: Parts can help you build yourself a parts bin. Need updates, board firmware, and Slicers? Download those items here for Creality Software Support. Part out used and gently used parts to cut down on out-of-pocket expenses. Learn how to maintain and reuse your gadgets. Don’t forget to fail fast, when working on such equipment. Short-term break fix expenses go along way when dealing with 3D printers, drones, computers and more.

Fix A Disposal Problem

We Found Food and Debris, Fixing A Disposal Problem

No Grind, Time For A New Disposal

Lab Work – Emergency Fix, Disposal Problem

A few weeks ago, we had a minor issue with the sink disposal, hence the disposal problem. The picture here is speaks volumes about the problem we encountered.

Once the problem was identified, it was clear that we needed to replace the disposal unit while limited pipe reconfiguration. Helps to stay on brand, or within the same brand name (size, fit and disposal location). Upon closer inspection, we found that rust had caused significant damage internally. I had to remove the seal and screws to crack open the top of the disposal unit. Honestly, I was surprised by how worn out the unit was. It was definitely time for a replacement, and were fortunate to have discovered the issue when we did.

Disposal Parts and Install

New Disposal Install

Disposal Rust

Clean Teeth

Interior View

Disposal Findings and Fix

Next, the title, “Disposal Problem ‘no grind’, time to replace it a new title. Unfortunately, the 1/2 replacement had a short in the wiring. Being a conscientious consumer, I decided to upgrade to the new InSinkErator 3/4 hp, which you can see here. It was a smart choice as it was the same brand and fit perfectly in the cabinet space. You can see the final installation below. These disposal units are usually plug and play, assuming that piping and plugs are readily available and identical. For this reason, I stuck with the same brand, hoping for seamless setup.

Anyhow, I didn’t want to hack away at the existing pipe or change around the pipe configuration nor the cabinetry etc. Ideally, just a quick swap, maintain the status quo or better for the drain pipes and the sinks output. In regards to the Badger 15ss, you’ll see the upgrade comes with slight increase in HP, a plastic outer case/shell “marketing” and a sparkly new (newly cleaned) lower cabinet area for the foreseeable future. Quick work of this disposal problem.

What a mess. Moving along, fix in place, watch what you put down the sink etc. Remember to check the sealant between the disposal and connector. We had a little leakage that has now been remedied. Not bad, virtually the same machine, replaced, tools – pliers, pipe wrench, flathead, pipe tape and a small bin in case of water leaks or intrusion in the future.

Quick Fix Format

Like the quick fix format? Check out other quick fix content here such as this disposal problems fix. Learn how to descale your coffee equipment – pots and machines, fix a toilet float, clean and fix pool filter housing and filter problem or try a cell phone charging hack… Check them out!

Finally, hopefully (fingers-crossed), you can learn a thing or two. Be sure to unplug disposals, have some extra ‘shop’ towels to mop up excess water or worse, sink goo. Make sure local power outlets are off and to be safe, turn off water where applicable.

Ender 3 TPU Update

TPU Components, Direct Drive and More

New Assembly and Drive Drive Extruder

Lab Work – Bolt On Upgrades

We are updating the extruder – TPU Update. Adding a bolt-on direct drive upgrade and replacing the Series 3 full assembly body.

The TPU update is a go. First, PLA is great. TPU is better for certain applications. However, we start with PLA. If you need flexibility over rigidity it is assumed that you want to test TPU filament. First, we will replace the existing assembly body on the MAX NEO and bolt on the new extruder to address the TPU issues*. TPU requires more force to drive the flexible filament through the assembly and out the nozzle. The direct drive will help with ‘refinement’ and focusing on pushing and pulling the filament more accurately and precisely.

Creality Accessories

Unboxing

Drive Motor

Assembly

Remove Extruder

Unscrew the Fans

Assembly

Again, in terms of next steps and the TPU Update, the update is not a *requirement,. However, after seeing enough test prints, it’s time to make the switch. Here is the bolt on solution from Creality for the Ender 3-Series, MAX NEO. Moreover, what do I mean by ‘requirement’ above? In my opinion, it would be extremely difficult to print TPU printables using a Bowden drive. I’ve tried, and it doesn’t work well. Finally, the Bowden drive doesn’t provide enough filament force and direct force to the filament through the hot end, hence the need for a direct drive motor. So, I want to emphasize that there’s no need to buy a new machine for TPU printing. Simply, do the swap and you can print both TPU and other high-temperature filaments as well.

Quick update: since this post was shared, we have received the parts for the TPU updates, allows us to begin the direct drive build. TPU filaments and prints can now be done without the necessary upgrades. Let’s get into the build and upgrade action! Side note, before we move off the direct drive action, I’d like to share other Halot updates including the Halot LCD fix and other break-fixes when adding a resin printer to your arsenal.

Stay tuned for additional photos and mini-clips covering the installation soon. In the meantime, here is a brief unboxing and assembly tear-down. Thanks!

Candy Crush Soda Saga

Play Candy Crush Soda Saga by King

A Sugar Rush

Lab Work – Teeing Up Candy Crush Soda Saga

Have a few extra minutes to solve puzzles and enjoy some candy? Candy Crush might be the perfect game for those game time moments!

Candy Crush Soda Saga by King is the sequel to the original Candy Crush Saga. I started playing Sugar at the beginning of 2023, fitting it in between sessions of Factorio and Clash Of Clans. Candy Crush is a fantastic puzzle game that will appeal to fans of Connect Four, Othello, Tetris, or paper crossword puzzles. It requires quick thinking and reflexes. Sugar offers great game play and animations. Personally, I prefer Soda over the previous versions of Candy Crush because it feels more polished. Factorio remains a favorite desktop game of mine, while CoC Clash Of Clans and Candy Crush, both mobile games, have been put on hold for now.

More Soda Saga

Lvl 55

Play Again

Play On

COC Dilemma

Let me explain further, in CoC in Clash Of Clans, I’ve been playing for over 10 years. I reached TH15, and maxed out before the wall max release, and I’ve tried out a few new characters. The game’s lifecycle has run it’s course for me. As for Candy Crush, the dragon stages can be challenging. It can feel like you might not be able to pass them without making in-game purchases.

Now, I’m sure there are plenty of people out there who have completed the dragon stages, but I have not. Kudos to those who have. I might need to do a little internet research, I guess. However, I liken the experience to my childhood, playing Gyromite, Castlevania or even Super Mario; and you can’t get out of the rut. I feel like I just can’t ‘beat’ a particular area/stage/puzzle etc. So, without going down the rabbit hole, what I tend to do is set the game down, uninstall until it’s time to pick it up again. I know brutal cycle… moreover, I tend to pick up the game every other month or so, a new install is a must. Perhaps it would be easier to just pick up with the dragon area…

Not a fan of Candy Crush game? No problem, let’s explore some other options before we finish up. How about the game of Solitaire? Go old school and grab a deck of cards, let’s play. Or maybe you’re up for a game of World War 3 play with friends like we did here, or take on the challenge of conquering the world alone. Not into ‘Risk-like’ games? How about trying out D&D? Check out Dungeon Boss – Revised. Still not interested? What about Clash of Clans?

In-game screenshots to follow. It’s been a month or two since my last play-through. Stay tuned for my gaming experience in the next few weeks!

Ender Upgrade Adhesion Issue

Adhesion Issues, Bed Temp, Roughen The Surface

Latest Ender Chaos

Lab Work – Humor Is The Only Way Sometimes

The Lead, 6 hour+ print chaos; let’s address and tackle these Ender Upgrade Adhesion Issues.

We will put the Halot Sky Resin vat cover issue, on hold and focus on the Ender 3 Neo Max bed adhesion problems. It has taken over 5 hours to troubleshoot, with fans running and a cooling bed plate. There are numerous issues to tackle!

Let’s Troubleshoot

Extruder Pressed Down

Bed Inspection

Extruder Removed

Sensor Globule

Heating Element

Close Up

Track Bands Off

Missing Tension Knobs

Current Status, Visual Check

Secondly, we are missing hand-tension screws and tension belts. There is a literal mess of PLA covering 60% or more of the printer, extrusion head, bed and assembly. Fortunately, I walked in post-print as a tension belt was in the process of removing itself from the printer head.

Moreover, that concludes the visual inspection portion of the Ender Upgrade Adhesion Issue. Moving forward, we have the printer head back together, PLA cleaned off, tension belts applied. Next and not captured below, replace adhesion plate, tension screws, and restart the machine for calibration. Look for update posts here in the next day or two.

Next, what is the purpose of the print? Let’s replace the cover on the Halot Sky (V1) Resin vat, I am not sure where the original cover has gone – it could have been broken or lost. More importantly, the print itself was lost. From the perspective of the ‘pressman’, the printable seems to have failed to adhere to the build plate. Following a settings check, the discovery was around ‘ironing’ or issues around ironing. Also, the printer head was buried into the print plate. This is not good for the printer or its parts. Additionally, there was a concerning sound of tension belts releasing and printer head/plate friction. However, the print fix is currently being fixed, and we will provide an update at a later date or time.

Finally, we replace build plate, hand screws, springs, restart/update firmware and calibration.

Supercell Clash Terms Update

Working Out T’s And C’s – Supercell Clash

Supercell Clash Of Clans Update

Materials – New Terms, New Character and New Chaos

We have officially retired our Clash of Clans account, following the latest Supercell Clash Terms Update.

This update introduced additional TH15 requirements, hero levels, a split builder camp, and multi-level builder battles. I will refrain from sharing my thoughts on the update as we have already announced out retirement. As mentioned above, we recently received the latest Terms/Services update. I am curious to understand the primary reason behind the Supercell ID connection rules.

While I will keep my comments respectful regarding the Supercell Clash Terms Update, it seems that online players will be required to stick with IDs they currently have. It is one thing to increase usage and enhance gameplay, but the idea of this update being solely for the benefit of the player seems questionable. However, if you wish to disconnect your account, please contact Supercell Support before September 2023.

May be worth a chat, click to read other CoC posts or general articles, or connect the Supercell Team.

Ender Filament and Adhesion Issues

Filament Challenges, Turmoil and More

3D Printer Adhesion Issues with PLA and TPU

Print Plate Surface Adhesion and Heating Issues

Lab Work – Ender Issues Defined

A few more weeks of Ender issues…

Ender Filament and Adhesion Issues, are causing a delay in the TPU Neo Max upgrade progress. I will be sharing more Ender ‘lite’ issues, as we continue the TPU trial and face filament challenges. The filament change was primarily for lab work on bait designs and future locking mechanisms where TPU will be more appropriate. Despite this tangent, core printing has not ceased, I am still facing challenges with PLA.

Ender Filament and Adhesion Issues

There are countless issues that seem infinite at the moment. Everything from Creality Software to Ultimaker Cura, Sonic Pad issues, filament running temp, and new surface temperature problems… we have a lot of cover. I will break these down into 2 or 3 new posts over the next week. We will also revisit surface adhesion. Surface adhesion and surface temperature seem to be causing most of the issues on the Ender Max Neo. I must admit, tinkering doesn’t always result in perfect prints, even 60% to 80% of the time. I won’t argue, I’ll just focus on testing… the more runs, the better chance we have of increasing that 60% likelihood of successful prints.

Pictures will follow, as they say, a picture is worth a thousand words. The pictures will be shared to specifically cover thickness, fragility and test prints. Let’s get to printing!

Cooking Up Brussels & Bacon

Maple Glazed Brussels And Bacon

Do You Fancy Maple Syrup?

Lab Work – Maple Glazed Bacon Brussel Sprouts

A moment of honesty, I’ve never liked Brussel sprouts; I know the shame.

Yes, the horror… Brussels and bacon… did I mention maple syrup? Like most things, I’ve learned to enjoy the combination, especially when finished with maple syrup. I never thought I would use maple syrup as an alternative glaze, but, yes, it’s good.

Honestly, there is nothing better in life than the combination of sweet and savory flavors, such as salty mixed with a fine coating of maple syrup. Don’t over do it on the syrup, if not syrup, a balsamic reduction will suffice. If not, simple salt will do the trick. When I was growing up, mini cabbages were bland, or just down right not good. Again, as a kid, no body likes sprouts. However, by simply adding salt or a sweet and salty component, the dish is elevated to a higher level. It goes from being a side dish to a main dish. This is a great combination for holiday meals, get- togethers, or a change of pace at home. lifts the dish to higher ground. Kick your home-cooked meals up a notch with sprouts, syrup, and bacon.

I’m not a foodie or a food blogger/vlogger, but give it a shot for yourself. Try it, what’s the worst that can happen? You know, I might post a few more things beyond the combo, like the sous vide ‘meat’… I think I might try to share the trials and tribulations of making a simple donut, some creme brûlée, and maybe a great soft pretzel. Again, take it or leave it, I thought it might be a good experiment or a disastrous. Better yet, for the sake of creating great internet content, I guess.

Look for a few more items to creep into the output section, along with the sous vide adventures and smorgasbord spread. And yes, some fantastic Brussels finished in maple syrup and bacon. Enjoy

Ender 3 Max Neo Filament

Printer Base Stabilization, Adhesion and Print Height

Ender 3 Max Neo Filament Solutions

Lab Work – TPU Speed and Cycle Times

For this article on the Ender 3 Max Neo Filament, a typical print cycle might run between 2-5 hours, possibly more. While the standard range has been 2-5 hours, we are now looking at 12 – 16 hours. Recently, we have extended the top maximum run times to just under 12 hours for our test models. Surprisingly, both print tests resulted in the a mess.

Let’s Assess The Situation

For the record, a paper towel holder caused this issue twice. Upon initial observation, as the prints moved vertically (up the y-axis), the printing quality deteriorated. Somewhere between the 4″ and 5″ mark, both test prints went awry.

I’m starting to think there is shaking issue with the table or even a stabilization issue where the printer. is located. We can address both issues by printing the base slices, holder ends, screws, rods, and washers in a single print. Print these items separately to attach the towel roll and the rod. The rod that is slung between the holders can be printed in a secondary or tertiary step, This is mitigation issue number one, or we could address the stabilization directly. The printers are currently positioned where they stand, so there is not much I can do to move them around.

Once I received the new filament, we will print the rod. If it works, great. If not, then step two will be more tedious. The issue is mostly a space problem in the office. The filament should arrive later today, and I will post a quick summary once I finish printing the rod slice, assuming it is successful.

Ironically, a similar issue was occurring when I ran TPU through the machine. So we can conclude the Ender 3 Max Neo Filament post with this. Although I don’t think they are related, adhesion; more on software upgrades, filament PLA adhesion and TPU upgrade adhesion was the issue with TPU. Which we will address in a future post once we determine the correct nozzle temps, print speed, and adhesion setup. I have heard/read about using adhesion spray or glue stick. Another day, we will tackle those 3d printer issues/phantom printing phenomenon.

Explore Various 3D Printer Brands

3d Printers, New, Used Or Refurbed

Best 3d Printers On the market 2023

Lab Work – 3d Printers

See 3D Poll Below (closed), participate in the ‘who’s who of 3D Printer Usage Brands and Manufacturers’.

The poll has since closed on 3D Printer Usage. However, what we discovered is interesting. The question was ‘What 3D printers have you used, any success’? We are specifically looking for a TPU thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) filament option. Tests with the NEO Max have been inconsistent, mostly unsuccessful, unless we swap out filaments. Interesting right? More on the Creality series of printers, Ender Series, Halot and Prusa products. There are others of course, Elegoo, Dremel, Prusa (mentioned prior), Bambu Lab, and Anycubic.

We have generally, for the focus of this 3d Printer Usage message, have been more around product similarities and commonalities with Creality. Choosing to stay brand agnostic per se. More choice, choosing Creality maybe four years or more. Today, we are looking for the best TPU lite printer. Do you have any suggestions regarding 3D print usage or brand? We have used Dremel for cutting and sanding, typical applications for a Dremel tool. As for Prusa, we have only used their products in theory, as some items we have purchased were made via a Prusa lab or outsourced printer. Anyhow, we are looking for feedback or comments. Please kindly leave your commentary below.

Please note, if you’re looking to swap out resin liners for the CL-89 model, it is advisable to purchase a number of them in advance, as they can be difficult to find when global stock is low.

New Halot Sky LCD

Creality Halot Sky Update

Creality Halot Sky Resin 8.9″ LCD Change Out

Lab Work – LCD Screen

I know, we started the last post with “Before you start your own 3D printing…”; this post does follow suit. Let’s hop into the new Halot sky LCD swap.

It looks like a bad LCD screen, that needs to be replaced, as well as the film stretched over the resin vat or possibly just some resin damage, for that matter.

We replaced the monochrome LCD screen on the deck of the Halot Sky while we wait for a new FEP resin vat. Please note, if you’re planning to change resin liners (if you manage to find the correct ones for CL-89), it’s a good idea to buy several of them because they can be difficult to find when global stock is low.

Swapped LCD Screen

Swap details: Deconstruct by removing all screws, covers and metal panels. Be careful to disconnect the wires and ribbon cable for the touchscreen. Replace the screen ribbon in the quick connect being careful to reattach the ribbon and black wire for the touchscreen.

Two, clean up any resin residue, pour over, and spillage now. I believe this is where we made a mistake. The spillage got under the screen, as shown in the featured image for the article. Have a bottle of alcohol on hand to make the cleanup process as easy and effortless as possible. It took about 15-20 minutes in total, as I mentioned, due to the large amount of spillage. Finally, remove the ribbon tape surround and a few screws to gain access to the LCD screen.

Ideally, you’ll want to take your time, being careful to not to rip the LCD tape, or misplace a screw. If you do lose any items, you can always find new pieces in the Spare Parts. If not, try the eBay shop. We will provide a link to our wares but it’s taking some time due to logistical issues. We also sell out items on eBay from time to time, so check them out – we currently have some King books available.

Liner Change

Internals

LCD Change

Change

Liner

For those who only need the FEP release film, or for our future reference – FEP Release Film – (search eBay for FEP Release film). A side note: FEP film can be hard to find, so eBay might be your best source. If i were a betting man, which I’m not, eBay or Amazon might be the only two sites where you can find spare parts and film. Cheers!

Before we move off the Halot updates, I’d like to share other Halot usage, new Creality series, break-fixes, and finally the idea of adding a resin printer to the 3d printer arsenal.

As usual leave a comment below, let us know what you’re thinking?

Social Artwork Activity

Rid Your Ecosystem Of Search and Location History

Your Google Activity, What You Need To Know

Lab Work – Manage Your Online Activity

I thought I would throw this out there, for those of you who don’t understand internet ‘activity’ and how to quickly review, remove, delete and stop activity in it’s tracks.

Stop Data Collection via MyActivity.Google.com

Quick and easy, get rid of and delete My Activity now. Simply go to myactivity.google.com on your computer, assuming you have a Google account. If you’ve new visited this site before, please take the time to do so and research how to disable your data collection if you want to stop the tracking. Additionally, as part of the My Activity removal process, I recommend removing your current account. Followed by creating a new one with all tracking features turned off.

Listen, more people, than you would think have no idea that these devices are collecting information. Specifically, they are collecting health, location, biometric and search data. My Activity is where the important stuff or tracking can be muted, disable and deleted.. Again, that address again, myactivity.google.com. Have a look, good luck. Same can be done on for old accounts – JustDeleteMe, unused mobile games etc., or your mobile devices, for either Android or iOS. I’ll post those items in the next few weeks.

Mobile Emergency Charger

Construct An Emergency Charge

In A Pinch – Grab a 9v, a Car charger, electrical tape and a nail

Lab Work – 9v Charger Hack

Before you start criticizing me me about wattages, amperage, safety, or reality etc., I want to clarify that I meant to post this back in December, but didn’t get around to it until now.

The scenario is familiar – no power due to a storm outage or a dead car battery, and you find yourself in a bind .You phone is dead, and you need a charge. This hack can be a lifesaver when you’re away from home comforts whether you’re camping, off-grid, or stranded due to breakdown.

Hacks, Emergency Use

I usually avoid cellphone hacks, but this one caught my attention as we enter hurricane season. Having experienced storms, tornadoes, hurricanes, and the like, I know that sometimes the simplest things can make a big difference in a power outage. I’m not suggesting you hoard batteries, clicky-pens, nails, and used charger cords, but it might be wise to have a few on hand, just in case.

This hack has been around for sometime. Some people believe that off-grid living and underground living may require alternative power sources, and this hack could be just what you need. In any case, we spliced together a few generic charging cords, added a car charger, and a few 9v batteries, and voila! We have some juice for the cellphone battery.

Supplies, Cut, Twist and Charge

Supplies

Cut/Twist

Battery

Taped

Power Supply

This hack might work even better. This hack might work even better if you can find a different type of battery, such as an RC/Drone battery considering 9v, LiCB or 4s/5s LiPos. Try a power supply where applicable. Whatever the case, you may have these items lying around your home, office, or shop, depending on your situation. We have these items in our workshop, so you can imagine how handy they might be in serious storm or power outage situation.

Like the quick fix format? Check out other quick fix content here such as this disposal problems fix. Like the learn to descale your coffee equipment – pots and machines, fix a toilet float clean and fix a pool filter housing and filter which is like this cell phone charging hack… Check them out!

As usual leave a comment below, let us know what you’re thinking?

Halot Sky Break-fix

Creality Halot Sky Troubleshooting Break-fix

Creality Halot Sky – Resin Liner Change Out

Lab Work – Working Out The Bugs, Halot Sky Resin Printer

Before you begin you own 3D printing, journey, including purchasing a 3D printer, we need to discuss break-fix: the Halot Sky Break-fix which follows up on the LCD replacement just a few months ago.

First, it is crucial to understand how to maintain and troubleshoot printers. The same applies to addressing major printing issues, such as breaking down the entire printer to the board level. This also includes dealing with misprints, which can occur frequently. Proper care, cleaning, and resin management are essential tasks, including swapping resin liners and cleaning resin drips meticulously.

Liner Change

Liner Frame

New Liner

Attached are few sneak peek video clips and photos of our latest test prints and demos. We have some ‘real-world’ solutions coming soon. More creations on 3D software and 3D applications such as TinkerCad, Autodesk – AutoCAD, Creality (design) software, SolidWorks and more. We have started with TinkerCad and AutoCAD so that we can print prototypes and finish products within a few hours. Got any ideas? Need 3d prints? Leave us a comment or drop us a line on the Connect. Please include: file type, filament, sizes etc. Let’s see what we can come up with! As usual leave a comment below, let us know what you’re thinking?

New Creality Series

A Makers-space Featuring Creality 3d Printers

Creality 3d Printing Series – Ender 3 Neo Max & Halot Sky

Lab Work – Creality Settings

3D printing? If you have a need, give us a call. We will be posting a handful of new work in the weeks to come. From testing and prototyping, to 3D model printing and extruding, resin printers versus PLA/TPU filament printers, the the trials and the tribulations i.e. issues we faced while running our 3D printers. Check out the latest Creality Ender series printers, as we will be covering the Max Neo in this article.

I have attached a few sneak peek video clips and photos of the New Creality Series, showcasing our latest test prints and demos. Als have some ‘real-world’ solutions coming out soon. We will also be putting out some polls regarding 3D software/applications – TinkerCad, AutoCad, Creality (design) software, SolidWorks and more. We have started with TinkerCad and AutoCad so that we can print prototypes to finish products within a few hours.

In The Lab

Creality Tablet

Prototypes

Got any ideas? Do you need 3D prints? Leave us a comment, drop us a line on the Connect, please include: file type, filament, sizes, etc. Let’s see what we can come up with!

As usual leave a comment below, let us know what you’re thinking?